Question about 2005 Toyota Corolla

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2005 toyota corolla growling noise coming from driverside sounds like bearing already replaced bearing still making the noise ???

I put up in the air with jack stands and still making the noise...

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  • Hillary James
    Hillary James May 21, 2014

    I am having this same problem! I took my Corolla to the repair shop and had the bearing replaced, but when I reach speeds of 50 miles per hour or higher the loud noises come back. It is quiet during moderate speeds, so I am not sure what is going on. Also, when I break from higher speeds (like exiting an off-ramp), the loud noises come back as I slow to a stop. Any ideas what this could be? Hillary James | www.ipswichcitymechanical.com.au

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The replacement bearing could be defective but the noise could indicate some other problem.

Posted on Apr 12, 2014

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I am having this same problem! I took my Corolla to the repair shop and had the bearing replaced, but when I reach speeds of 50 miles per hour or higher the loud noises come back. It is quiet during moderate speeds, so I am not sure what is going on. Also, when I break from higher speeds (like exiting an off-ramp), the loud noises come back as I slow to a stop. Any ideas what this could be?

Hillary James ' www.ipswichcitymechanical.com.au

Posted on May 21, 2014

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  • 24 Answers

Could be tie-rod ends as well. Bring it into a spring shop & have them test drive it. They will know right away & they can give you an estimate as well.

Posted on Apr 13, 2014

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Better u take it to repair shop, not something u can do. when u changed the bearing, is all four wheels right? nothing under car is lose? it could be from engine.

Posted on Apr 13, 2014

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SOURCE: heater only blows out cold air

Check the valve that controls coolant flow to the cabin

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SOURCE: wheel bearing replacement left front

Diagnosing the bearings can be tricky depending on severity of wear. Typically - drone noise at highway speeds, squeeling, clicking or grinding noises at low speeds that reduce during braking, or pull off the wheel and brake assembly and check the bearing for slack or smoothness of rotation by hand. While doing this, check the brake assembly thoroughly - generally a more likely culprit of wheel noise.

Wheel bearing replacement is not for the novice backyard mech. - you will need pullers, press, etc. If you can get a rebuilt assembly - much easier.

Posted on May 08, 2009

jimboz4
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SOURCE: 2005 Toyota Corolla Radio fuse

Pg. 250 of your 2005 Owner's Manual shows the location of the Fuse Boxes. There is one under your hood on the driver's side and the other is under the dash just to the left of steering wheel. Pg 272, will show you how to replace the fuses. Pg. 286-287 gives a diagram and description of each fuse and what part of the electrical system it enables.
This portion of the electrical system correspondeds to the fuse in position 32 on pg. 287 of the manual.
Your going to have to get on your back with a flashlight and open up the fuse box under the dash by the steering wheel. The lid of the fuse box shows the positions of the fuse and their amperage rating. Like I said, replace the fuse in postion 32 (15 Amp). There is a spare 15 Amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood (easy to get to, see the diagrams in the owner's manual). There is also a fuse puller tool next to the spare fuses.

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

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SOURCE: 2005 toyota corolla motor oil capacity?

if you have a 1ZZ engine

4.2 quarts, 4.4 quarts with oil filter change

if you have the 2ZZ engine (XRS model) it is

4.4 quarts, 4.6 quarts with oil filter change

NOTE these are updated capacities that reflect changes identified in TSB: TSB-0134-08 issued July 15, 2008.
Your owners manual will reflect a lesser quantity that Toyota has since revised.


Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 333 Answers

SOURCE: How do I remove brake drum on 2005 toyota corolla

Under normal circumstances, the drum should slide right off once the wheel is removed.

If you have built up rust holding it on, there are two threaded holes near the center of the drum to aid in removal.
Insert two 12mm bolts into the holes and, while adding plenty of lubricant, turn the bolts in even amounts until they push the drum off.
Be sure to keep them lubed, as they will strip out easily if not.

If you have aftermarket drums without the holes or the screwholes are stripped out, smacking the face of the drum with a dead blow hammer will help free it up, but takes much longer for success.

Posted on Oct 17, 2009

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Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

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