Question about 1996 Ford Taurus
It idels at fluxuating rates, from 1-3 rpm and dies easily. once it moves its fine, but if it stops it dies very quickly. it also revs on its own.
If u have no check engine light do the following procedure.
Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
Most common cause of this is a bad TPS (throttle positioning sensor) it has 2 symptoms:
Another cause could be the MAF sensor but it's less likely to impact your cold idle. Best of luck with your problem.
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
Low / uneven idle problem can cause by a lot of components.
Dirty air filter
Dirty injectors + o-rings
Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.
Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)
Low compression (170 psi + is OK)
Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.
For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.
Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.
SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE
This is a 20-30 minutes job.
Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.
Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.
Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.
You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.
Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.
Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.
Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.
Get a friend to HEAR the RPM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.
DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.
PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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