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Re: Rear lid wont lock
There's no easy solution. Assuming you have a keyless remote and that isn't doing the job. The key in the trunk lid must not be working either. There is a way to crawl through the back seat and manually open the trunk lid, but that's a less than hospitable solution (especially if you have items in your trunk. I've changed the actuator in my daughter's 1998 beetle, and it's not an impossible repair for a novice. Sometimes it's a bad actuator, other times the actuator simply needs to be re-aligned so that operate properly. Dealer cost to do the repair will likely be about $150.
Bottom line, no easy manual solution to the problem, sorry.
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This is not a BCM problem , if it were there would be DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes stored in the BCM ! Need a factory or professional grade scan tool . Ther HVAC - heating ,ventilation an A/C venting problem is more then likely a mode door actuator problem , an it's not controlled by the BCM .
courtesy likes don't work, I'am assuming you mean courtesy lights ?
The trunk release problem could just be the lock actuator or the release relay in the rear fuse/ relay box . Regardless of the problem , checking for DTC'S with a capable scan tool an view inputs to the BCM is the proper why to diagnose these type problems ! Not guessing an assuming it's the BCM ! There is a lot of wiring an messaging between modules on serial data network ! There are other qualified independent repair shops !
Rear Compartment Lid Release Description
When the valet lockout in the rear compartment lid release switch is in the UNLOCK position, battery positive voltage (B+) is applied in the following ways:
• From the TRUNK REL fuse
• Through the contacts of the rear compartment lid release relay
• Through CKT 56 (BLK/WHT) to the rear compartment lid release actuator
The rear compartment lid release actuator is grounded at all times through CKT 650 (BLK) to ground G400.
Pressing the rear compartment lid release switch provides a ground input signal to the body control module (SBM) through CKT 1576 (BLK), the switch contacts and CKT 450 (BLK). The SBM provides a message on the Class 2 serial data line to the remote function actuator (RFA) module. The RFA module in turn grounds the rear compartment lid release relay control at terminal A1. This terminal grounds CKT 1344 (LT BLU) which energizes the rear compartment lid release relay coil. The relay contacts close in order to perform the following functions:
• Actuate the rear compartment lid release actuator
• Release the rear compartment lid.
The rear compartment lid may be released using the keyless entry transmitter regardless of the valet lockout position. Pressing the rear compartment lid release button on the transmitter provides a signal to the remote function actuator (RFA) module. The RFA module grounds the rear compartment lid release relay control at terminal A1. This ground applied to CKT 1344 (LT BLU) actuates the rear compartment lid release relay.
Replacing a BCM without knowing what your doing could make thing's worst . These modules need to be programmed , Dealer only !
Your light problem probably is do to a none functional panel dimming module ! Lamp control module !
This vehicle has only one BCM !
Body Control Module (SBM)
Under the right side of the IP, near the rear of the IP compartment
Lamp Control Module (LCM)
Under the left side of the IP, to the right of the steering column
Rear Junction Block
In the center right rear of the passenger compartment, under the rear seat cushion
The rear door lock actuator has failed in the door locking unit this is a common problem you can manually unlock the door to replace the latch if you didn't have the deadlocking on if you cant try pressing the locking button twice so when the car is locked the flashing red light is not blinking ie off on the drivers. Doing this usually causes the faulty lock to release the dead locking so you can pull the inside handle to unlock the door.
This one is fairly straightforward. Your car door lock has some sort of actuator located just below or just to the side of the door lock mechanism. The door lock consists of a set of geared, jaws that pop and are held open until the trigger trips and the jaws grab the striker located on the door post.
The actuator is either manual or electric. In a manual actuator, a rod reacts to the motion of the slide latch or the motion of the external key. In this case, gearing multiplies the force acting on the rod so that it can push the trigger button on the rear of the door lock housing. If the actuator is electric, the rod is activated by the actuator motor and its movement is controlled by gearing within the actuator motor housing. In any event, the actuator rod presses down upon the trigger and the door button pops open when you use the slide latch or door key.
At least, that's what is supposed to happen. In your case, I think the actuator is probably gone and must be replaced. You can actually do this job yourself if you are comfortable with tools and with removing door panels and things. The actuator is relatively easy to access, once you have removed the interior door panel. The issue is just the amount of labor that will be involved just getting to the actuator. It is the type of repair that you should actually leave to a mechanic. We've pointed out the do-it-yourself possibilities because there are many people who enjoy this work.
Hello: The lock/unlock unit is part of the mechanical door lock assembly. The first thing to do is remove the door panel. Check and make sure the linkages are all connected, then make sure the wires are properly connected to the door lock assembly. If all the previous is ok then you will need to replace the lock/unlock assembly. to do this you need to remove the mechanical lock assembly first then remove the actuator. It might be best to have a professional accomplish this task. You also should disconnect the actuator an check to make sure you have 12v going to the actuator when you activate the door lock switch.
This sounds like the power door lock actuator is frozen, it will need to be replaced, when it goes bad sometimes it locks up and will not allow the lock to unlock even with the key, you will need to remove the panel , this is kind of a job, you will need to remove as many of the screws that hold it then pry it off, then you will need to unhook the arm form the actuator that connects to the latch asm, then you will be able to open the door,
The rear door lock actuator needs to be replaced. If you have the dealer do it you will pay $300.00+. If you do it, you can do it in an hour for about $20.00. Just buy a universal actuator kit that looks similar to the one already in there from the factory. Do A Google Search on "Mazda Tribute Rear Door Lock Actuator" to find sources for them.
This is a VERY common problem on Ford Escapes and Mazda Tributes, all years. I am surprised there has not been a recall on this.
I have a 1999 Chrysler T&C 3.8 liter like yours and it sounds
like you are having the same the same problem I had.
Every time you hit the door unlock or lock button, it made a loud
buzz like you just missed a question on a game show. ;-)
It turned out the problem was the rear lift gate lock actuator. The part costs
about $40 from the dealer if I can recall correctly.
The repair involves: 1st removing the middle and rear seats to get
access from the inside to the rear gate
(obviously you will have to remove the seats from the side doors
since the rear gate won't open yet)
Remove the plastic inside rear gate panel and molding (phillips screws)
Once you remove the panel, you may see a way to manually
open the rear gate. As I recall, I think there was a access opening
covered from the inside with a black weather/insulation tape.
Carefully removing this out of the way gave access to a way to
manually open the gate, making the rest of the work easy.
Remove the electrical connector and the mounting bolts
to remove from the actuator. It is attached to the inside
rear gate with 2 or 3 bolts (10 mm?)
Remove the old one and replace the part, then put it all back
together, make sure you reconnect the electrical connector