Question about 1989 Dodge Raider

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Trying to remove starter from 1987 Dodge Raider.

The uppermost bolt is blocked by the drive shaft and I'm having trouble getting to it. Is there a way to remove that bolt without disconnecting the four wheel drive?

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If you use an extension on your ratchet that's longer than the starter, and a universal socket, you should be able to get it.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

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Also try lifting the car or compressing the car to get the drive line to move. One one had to release pressure on the cranked torsion bars in order to get the driveline back to level where it could be removed

Posted on Oct 20, 2009


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1 Answer

Starter Replacement

What you need to do is remove the bolts from the universal joint at the differential and then pry the shaft forward pushing twoard the transmission.The drive shaft should drop out at that point,I hope I understood your question and this solves your issue.

Apr 19, 2014 | 2006 Dodge Charger

1 Answer

When I try to start it, I just hear a whined up sound. Whould it be the starter needs to be replaced?

Could be. Also be sure that the starter does not have any spacers on it. If it does remove some or all and try again.

Sep 07, 2011 | 1987 Dodge Raider

1 Answer


  1. Remove the hub cap and bolt the wheel back in.
  2. Punch out the spindle nut lock and loosen the spindle nut.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle and block the rear tires.
  4. Remove the wheel.
  5. Drain the transmission.
  6. Remove the all the damper fork nuts and all the brake hose nuts on the damper fork and on the shock absorber.
  7. Remove the damper fork.
  8. Remove the driver side and passenger side front suspension flange nut inside the engine bay and slide the upper arm out
  9. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the passenger side and remove the passenger drive shaft spline from the hub.
  10. Separate the inner driveshaft from the transmission with a large screw driver (or crow bar).
  11. Remove the passenger side drive shaft. Do not pull.
  12. Remove the front radius rod.

Under the car.

  1. Remove the center beam.
  2. Remove the torque converter cover, the control cable holder and remove shift control cable.
  3. Remove the drive plate bolts and four transmission housing bolts.

Inside the engine bay.

  1. Place a transmission jack or several small jacks under the transmission.
  2. Disconnect all the electrical connectors.
  3. Remove the speed sensor gear shaft but leave the hoses on.
  4. Remove the distributor and mark the distributor shaft with a razor or a diamond etcher, usually on the head side or both.
  5. Remove the throttle control lever cable.
  6. Remove the transmission cooler hoses mounting bolts and their 4 washers.
  7. Remove the starter.
  8. Remove the all the transmission housing bolts.
  9. If the transmission won't come out remove a horizontal side engine mounting bolt and raise oil pan (with a wooden block between the oil pan and jack) until the transmission clears.
  10. Lower the transmission into the transmission jack.
  11. With the driver side front suspension flange out of the way, turn the steering towards the right then remove the driver side inner drive shaft with a large flathead screw driver.
  12. Lower the low profile transmission jack and slide the transmission and the jack from under the car. Don't loose the two dowel pins.
  13. Block all transmission fluid ports from leakage and dust and dirt.
  14. If repairs are being done repair the transmission in a dust, sand free environment.

Jul 30, 2011 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1987 dodge raider 2.6 that won't start battery good starter good. Only getting 6 volts power to starter when key turned lights work buzzer ect....please help this is my teenage sons truck and he...

If you are only getting 6 volts from the battery to the starter it is only 1 of two things. The wire going from the battery to the starter is damaged or corroded and has to be replaced. Or the battery is no good. The battery may have 12 volts when you attach a voltmeter. Red on Red , Black on Black and this will make you think this battery is good as most people would.But when you apply a load to the battery the voltage may drop to the 6 volts therefor the starter when activated is now only receiving 6 volts which is not enough to start the engine. Have your battery loadtested and I will bet that this is the culprate

May 04, 2011 | 1987 Dodge Raider

1 Answer

I have a 87 dodge raider at it has a leak on the back of the engine looks like out of the bell housing could it be a sending unit. It is engine oil.

Hi there colterf! Usually if you have engine oil leaking out of the back of the motor/ tranny bellhousing, it means that you have a rear main seal that needs to be replaced. Now the rear main seal is a pretty tricky item for the do it yourself'er if you are un familliar with the components themselves. Here is a rough step by step of what needs to be done.
  1. Disconnect negative battery terminal
  2. Lift vehicle and place securely on stands
  3. Locate and disconnect all electrical wires, cables, hoses and supply lines from the transmission (including the clutch or fork slave)
  4. Remove the driveline
  5. Unbolt and remove the transmission crossmember
  6. Use a transmission jack to steady and support the transmission ( at this time you may want to drain the tranny fluid to reduce weight)
  7. Unbolt and remove the starter assembly
  8. Remove all of the bolt on the bell housing
  9. Double check to make sure that the tranny if free and there are no morecomponents connecting it to the engine/ frame
  10. Lower jack and remove the transmission
  11. Locate the output shaft at the back of the engine (the seal goes around the shaft and between the block)
  12. If your vehicle has a seal retaining clamp unbolt and remove it.
  13. While on step 12 you need to drain and unbolt the engine oil resivoir to drop it down a 1/2" to access the seal and to also make sure no oil gets dumped when you remove the seal.
  14. Once you have the seal clear use a specialized seal puller to remove the old seal ( a medium sized flathead screwdrive may work as well)
  15. Once the old seal is removed check the seat on the block for any contaminates and remove them.
  16. To install, place the new seal on the seat and firmly push it into place. The seal needs to go in EVENLY! Use a specialized seal installation tool to make sure it is in all the way, all the way arround. If the seal is inserted uneavenly it will most likely leak.
The installation of the rest of the components are in the reverse order. For many people this is over their head. If you are unsure of yourself do not attempt and have a professional do it.

I hope that this will help you out!


Mar 31, 2011 | 1987 Dodge Raider

1 Answer

I have a1987 dodge dakota 3.9v6 having trouble geting starter to come out far enough to clear bellhouseing

hi hope this helps
when you pull the starter forward lift the back of the starter up.
sometimes you'll have to also disconnect the steering shaft coupling from the steering gear
and slide the shaft out of the way
hope this help give feed back

Nov 22, 2010 | 1987 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

How do i to change out a starter on a 1978 El Camino?

Starter removal on some models may necessitate the removal of the front support which runs from the corner of the frame to the front crossmember. If so, loosen the mounting bolt which attaches the support the frame first, then remove the crossmember bolt and swing the support out of the way.

The starters on some engines require the addition of shims to provide proper clearance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. These shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes from Chevrolet dealers. Flat washers can be used if shims are unavailable.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
If access to the wiring is difficult, the starter may be partially lowered before disconnecting it, but be careful not to stretch or damage the wiring.
  1. Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation purposes.
  2. If equipped, remove the front bracket from the starter. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter.
  3. Remove the starter mounting bolts. If a starter shim tab can be seen protruding out from between the mating surfaces of the starter and the block, remove the outer bolt first, then loosen the inner bolt. With the outer bolt removed and the inner loosened, most shims may be grasped and pulled from the top of the starter at this point. Once the bolts are removed, lower the starter front end first, and remove the unit from the car.

If no shim tab could be seen, yet shims or flat washers fall from the starter as it is withdrawn, stop and attempt to determine their locations. If possible, gather the shims for reuse during assembly. Shims without tabs must be positioned on the starter prior to installation, but the bolts may be held through the starter assembly in order to hold the shims in position.

To install:

  1. If flat washers or shims without tabs were found on removal, position them on top of the starter using the mounting bolts to hold them in position.
  2. Position the starter to the engine block and loosely install the mounting bolts. If tabbed shims were withdrawn during removal, position them before the outer mounting bolt is threaded.
  3. Once the starter and shims are properly positioned, tighten the two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).
  4. If equipped, install the front bracket and/or heat shield to the starter assembly.
  5. Attach the starter wiring to the solenoid, as noted during removal.
  6. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.

Drive Replacement
  1. Disconnect the field coil straps from the solenoid.
  2. Remove the through-bolts, and separate the commutator end frame, field frame assembly, drive housing, and armature assembly from each other.
On diesel starter, remove the insulator from the end frame. The armature on the diesel starter remains in the drive end frame. On diesel starters, remove the shift lever pivot bolt. ON the diesel 25 MT starter only, remove the center bearing screws and remove the drive gear housing from the armature shaft. The shift lever and plunger assembly will now fall away from the starter clutch.
  1. Slide the two piece thrust collar off the end of the armature shaft.
  2. Slide a suitably sized metal cylinder, such as a standard 1 / 2 in. pipe coupling, or an old pinion, onto the shaft so that the end of the coupling or pinion butts up against the edge of the pinion retainer.
  3. Support the lower end of the armature securely on a soft surface, such as a wooden block, and tap the end of the coupling or pinion, driving the retainer towards the armature end of the snapring.
  4. Remove the snapring from the groove in the armature shaft with a pair of pliers. Then, slide the retainer and starter drive from the shaft.
To assemble:
  1. Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft with silicone lubricant and then slide the starter drive onto the shaft with the pinion facing outward. Slide the retainer onto the shaft with the cupped surface facing outward.
  2. Again support the armature on a soft surface, with the pinion at the upper end. Center the snapring on the top of the shaft (use a new snapring if the original was damaged during removal). Gently place a block of wood flat on top of the snapring so as not to move it from a centered position. Tap the wooden block with a hammer in order to force the snapring around the shaft. Then, slide the ring down into the snapring groove.
  3. Lay the armature down flat on the surface you're working on. Slide the retainer close up on to the shaft and position it and the thrust collar next to the snapring. Using two pairs of pliers on opposite sides of the shaft, squeeze the thrust collar and the retainer together until the snapring is forced into the retainer.
  4. Lube the drive housing bushing with a silicone lubricant. Then, install the armature and the clutch assembly into the drive housing, engaging the solenoid shift lever yoke with the clutch, and positioning the front of the armature shaft into the bushing.
On non-diesel starters the shift lever may be installed in the drive gear housing first. On the 25 MT diesel starter only, install the center bearing screws and the shift lever pivot bolt, and tighten securely.
  1. Apply a sealing compound approved for this application onto the drive housing; then position the field frame around the armatures shaft and against the drive housing. Work slowly and carefully to prevent damaging the starter brushes.
  2. Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end frame with a silicone lubricant, place the leather brake washer onto the armature shaft, and then slide the commutator end frame over the shaft and into position against the field frame. Line up the bolt holes, then install and tighten the through-bolts.
  3. Reconnect the field coil straps to the MOTOR terminal of the solenoid.
If replacement of the starter drive fails to cure improper engagement of starter pinion to flywheel, there are probably defective parts in the solenoid and/or shift lever. The best procedure would probably be to take the assembly to a shop where a pinion clearance check can be made by energizing the solenoid on a test bench. If the pinion clearance is incorrect, disassemble the solenoid and shift lever, inspect, and replace worn parts.

Hope this help.

Mar 31, 2010 | 1978 Chevrolet C1500

4 Answers

I have a 2000 all-wheel-drive, the rear drive shaft is broken. I can't find the manual that covers Chrysler all-wheel-drive, it looks like the ABS monitor in it, and something from the transmission...

place a jack under the transmission and raise it a bit unbolt (the transmission mount) "i think thats what u mean its all i know that above the transmission holding it in place. You'll need a rachet wrench for this and a long onbe at that,, if not you can use a piece of pipe,, you'll want the extra power.. Unbolt it and lift it off,, if its still too tight jack the transmission up a bit.That providing your refering to the transmissing mounting rubber Which is all i can think you man its the only thing above the transmission. The ABS is 2 parts ,, its a mastercylinder and a booster. Its mounted on the firewall (its the thing you pour brake fluid in.) Unjack any wire or hoses by unscrewiung them and pluging them with something.. DUCT TAAPE or rescue tape works.. Unbloth both the mastercylinder and booster from the firewall... unmounting the drive shat.. well you'll see where it bolts ,, front and back.. Thats the easir part.. you will heed o happer, pull and tug the shaft until it pops out.. Hope I was helpful.. if you need more help please feel free to ask.

Mar 08, 2010 | Chrysler Town and Country Cars & Trucks

1 Answer


I am assuming that it is the 2.6L (G54B) engine. I am not sure if the 6-cylinder was available in 87. If it is the 4-cylinder engine the starter will be on the drivers side down near the side-bottom of the engine. It looks like a silver tube with usually a black center. All you have to do is unplug the electrical from it (i think it is just one connection) and then unbolt it. Getting to the bolts can be a pain so you will just have to find a way that you can get a wrench in to it. Once you take out a couple of bolts (can't remember if it is 2 or 3) you can just pull it out and pop in a new one.

Sep 08, 2009 | 1989 Dodge Raider

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