Re: Trying to remove starter from 1987 Dodge Raider.
Also try lifting the car or compressing the car to get the drive line to move. One one had to release pressure on the cranked torsion bars in order to get the driveline back to level where it could be removed
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What you need to do is remove the bolts from the universal joint at the differential and then pry the shaft forward pushing twoard the transmission.The drive shaft should drop out at that point,I hope I understood your question and this solves your issue.
If you are only getting 6 volts from the battery to the starter it is only 1 of two things. The wire going from the battery to the starter is damaged or corroded and has to be replaced. Or the battery is no good. The battery may have 12 volts when you attach a voltmeter. Red on Red , Black on Black and this will make you think this battery is good as most people would.But when you apply a load to the battery the voltage may drop to the 6 volts therefor the starter when activated is now only receiving 6 volts which is not enough to start the engine. Have your battery loadtested and I will bet that this is the culprate
Hi there colterf! Usually if you have engine oil leaking out of the back of the motor/ tranny bellhousing, it means that you have a rear main seal that needs to be replaced. Now the rear main seal is a pretty tricky item for the do it yourself'er if you are un familliar with the components themselves. Here is a rough step by step of what needs to be done.
Disconnect negative battery terminal
Lift vehicle and place securely on stands
Locate and disconnect all electrical wires, cables, hoses and supply lines from the transmission (including the clutch or fork slave)
Remove the driveline
Unbolt and remove the transmission crossmember
Use a transmission jack to steady and support the transmission ( at this time you may want to drain the tranny fluid to reduce weight)
Unbolt and remove the starter assembly
Remove all of the bolt on the bell housing
Double check to make sure that the tranny if free and there are no morecomponents connecting it to the engine/ frame
Lower jack and remove the transmission
Locate the output shaft at the back of the engine (the seal goes around the shaft and between the block)
If your vehicle has a seal retaining clamp unbolt and remove it.
While on step 12 you need to drain and unbolt the engine oil resivoir to drop it down a 1/2" to access the seal and to also make sure no oil gets dumped when you remove the seal.
Once you have the seal clear use a specialized seal puller to remove the old seal ( a medium sized flathead screwdrive may work as well)
Once the old seal is removed check the seat on the block for any contaminates and remove them.
To install, place the new seal on the seat and firmly push it into place. The seal needs to go in EVENLY! Use a specialized seal installation tool to make sure it is in all the way, all the way arround. If the seal is inserted uneavenly it will most likely leak.
The installation of the rest of the components are in the reverse order. For many people this is over their head. If you are unsure of yourself do not attempt and have a professional do it.
hi hope this helps
when you pull the starter forward lift the back of the starter up.
sometimes you'll have to also disconnect the steering shaft coupling from the steering gear
and slide the shaft out of the way
hope this help give feed back
Starter - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Starter removal on some models may
necessitate the removal of the front support which runs from the corner
of the frame to the front crossmember. If so, loosen the mounting bolt
which attaches the support the frame first, then remove the crossmember
bolt and swing the support out of the way.
The starters on some engines require the addition of shims to provide
proper clearance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel.
These shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes from Chevrolet dealers.
Flat washers can be used if shims are unavailable.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
If access to the wiring is difficult, the starter may be partially
lowered before disconnecting it, but be careful not to stretch or damage
Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut
as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to
connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation purposes.
If equipped, remove the front bracket from the starter. On engines
with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and
detach the bracket from the starter.
Remove the starter mounting bolts. If a starter shim tab can be
seen protruding out from between the mating surfaces of the starter and
the block, remove the outer bolt first, then loosen the inner bolt. With
the outer bolt removed and the inner loosened, most shims may be
grasped and pulled from the top of the starter at this point. Once the
bolts are removed, lower the starter front end first, and remove the
unit from the car.
If no shim tab could be seen, yet shims or flat washers fall from the
starter as it is withdrawn, stop and attempt to determine their
locations. If possible, gather the shims for reuse during assembly.
Shims without tabs must be positioned on the starter prior to
installation, but the bolts may be held through the starter assembly in
order to hold the shims in position.
If flat washers or shims without tabs were found on removal,
position them on top of the starter using the mounting bolts to hold
them in position.
Position the starter to the engine block and loosely install the
mounting bolts. If tabbed shims were withdrawn during removal, position
them before the outer mounting bolt is threaded.
Once the starter and shims are properly positioned, tighten the
two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).
If equipped, install the front bracket and/or heat shield to the
Attach the starter wiring to the solenoid, as noted during
Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable.
STARTER OVERHAUL Drive Replacement
Disconnect the field coil straps from the solenoid.
Remove the through-bolts, and separate the commutator end frame,
field frame assembly, drive housing, and armature assembly from each
On diesel starter, remove the insulator from the end frame. The
armature on the diesel starter remains in the drive end frame. On diesel
starters, remove the shift lever pivot bolt. ON the diesel 25 MT
starter only, remove the center bearing screws and remove the drive gear
housing from the armature shaft. The shift lever and plunger assembly
will now fall away from the starter clutch.
Slide the two piece thrust collar off the end of the armature
Slide a suitably sized metal cylinder, such as a
in. pipe coupling, or an old pinion, onto the shaft so
that the end of the coupling or pinion butts up against the edge of the
Support the lower end of the armature securely on a soft surface,
such as a wooden block, and tap the end of the coupling or pinion,
driving the retainer towards the armature end of the snapring.
Remove the snapring from the groove in the armature shaft with a
pair of pliers. Then, slide the retainer and starter drive from the
Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft with silicone
lubricant and then slide the starter drive onto the shaft with the
pinion facing outward. Slide the retainer onto the shaft with the cupped
surface facing outward.
Again support the armature on a soft surface, with the pinion at
the upper end. Center the snapring on the top of the shaft (use a new
snapring if the original was damaged during removal). Gently place a
block of wood flat on top of the snapring so as not to move it from a
centered position. Tap the wooden block with a hammer in order to force
the snapring around the shaft. Then, slide the ring down into the
Lay the armature down flat on the surface you're working on. Slide
the retainer close up on to the shaft and position it and the thrust
collar next to the snapring. Using two pairs of pliers on opposite sides
of the shaft, squeeze the thrust collar and the retainer together until
the snapring is forced into the retainer.
Lube the drive housing bushing with a silicone lubricant. Then,
install the armature and the clutch assembly into the drive housing,
engaging the solenoid shift lever yoke with the clutch, and positioning
the front of the armature shaft into the bushing.
On non-diesel starters the shift lever may be installed in the drive
gear housing first. On the 25 MT diesel starter only, install the center
bearing screws and the shift lever pivot bolt, and tighten securely.
Apply a sealing compound approved for this application onto the
drive housing; then position the field frame around the armatures shaft
and against the drive housing. Work slowly and carefully to prevent
damaging the starter brushes.
Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end frame with a silicone
lubricant, place the leather brake washer onto the armature shaft, and
then slide the commutator end frame over the shaft and into position
against the field frame. Line up the bolt holes, then install and
tighten the through-bolts.
Reconnect the field coil straps to the MOTOR terminal of the
If replacement of the starter drive fails to cure improper engagement
of starter pinion to flywheel, there are probably defective parts in
the solenoid and/or shift lever. The best procedure would probably be to
take the assembly to a shop where a pinion clearance check can be made
by energizing the solenoid on a test bench. If the pinion clearance is
incorrect, disassemble the solenoid and shift lever, inspect, and
replace worn parts.
place a jack under the transmission and raise it a bit
unbolt (the transmission mount) "i think thats what u mean its all i know that above the transmission holding it in place.
You'll need a rachet wrench for this and a long onbe at that,, if not you can use a piece of pipe,, you'll want the extra power.. Unbolt it and lift it off,, if its still too tight jack the transmission up a bit.That providing your refering to the transmissing mounting rubber Which is all i can think you man its the only thing above the transmission. The ABS is 2 parts ,, its a mastercylinder and a booster. Its mounted on the firewall (its the thing you pour brake fluid in.) Unjack any wire or hoses by unscrewiung them and pluging them with something.. DUCT TAAPE or rescue tape works.. Unbloth both the mastercylinder and booster from the firewall... unmounting the drive shat.. well you'll see where it bolts ,, front and back.. Thats the easir part.. you will heed o happer, pull and tug the shaft until it pops out.. Hope I was helpful.. if you need more help please feel free to ask.
I am assuming that it is the 2.6L (G54B) engine. I am not sure if the 6-cylinder was available in 87. If it is the 4-cylinder engine the starter will be on the drivers side down near the side-bottom of the engine. It looks like a silver tube with usually a black center. All you have to do is unplug the electrical from it (i think it is just one connection) and then unbolt it. Getting to the bolts can be a pain so you will just have to find a way that you can get a wrench in to it. Once you take out a couple of bolts (can't remember if it is 2 or 3) you can just pull it out and pop in a new one.