Question about 2001 Volkswagen Beetle
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I haven't found a really good wiring schematic of the A/C on these cars. But, I can tell you that I had an intermittant problem with my Civic air conditioner that sounds similar to yours.
Mine would work fine in cool and warm weather, but when the outside temperatures got hot, it would quit working. The fan would blow; the system had a good charge on it; and the green A/C indicator light on the A/C on/off switch showed the system as being "on". Despite all the indicators saying the A/C is "on", the compressor clutch wouldn't come on when the weather got hot.
In my case, the reason it stopped working when hot, was due to some poor solder connections at the A/C on/off switch, which is part of the Heater Control Assembly.
I removed my Heater Control Assembly (challenging job), and pulled apart the Heater Control Assembly (more challenging) to access the solder connections for the A/C on/off switch. I resoldered those connections (six solder points) and put everything back together and everything has worked perfectly ever since that time (two years).
I have never seen a wiring schematic that shows this switch with more than three connections, and that is why I haven't posted a schematic for you. If you want the usual schematic(s), you can find one on autozone.com for your Honda.
If you are not comfortable pulling apart the Heater Control Assembly, and soldering those connections, you can install a new assembly which is available on-line. I saw one listed through Majestic Honda for about $240.
I hope this helps.
Good Luck, Mark
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
SOURCE: ac doesn't work
suggest taking a multi meter reading across the terminals of the ac compressor . if you get infinti"no reading" then your engage coil is not working. if you follow the lager insulated pipe for the air conditioning you will eventually come across the low pressure switch
hope this helps
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
First of all, from the discharge port of compressor to the condenser(the device in front of the radiator) from the condenser to the metering device is all the high side or high pressure. From the metering device through the evaporator including accessories back to intake of compressor is the low side or low pressure.It is important to know that entrained in the refrigerant is oil for lubrication. The combination of pressure and oil could be a safety and environmental hazzard. I know on older GM models one could short out low pressure switch by jumping the low pressure switch with appropriate gage wire. This would temporarily permit one to add aditional refrigerant to system.The job of the low pressure switch is to protect the compressor from burning up due to lack of refrigerant by shutting the system down.. Now, if the refrigerant is low it had to escape, meaning a leak.(refirerants don't just wear out)Refrigerants are notorious to being determental to the environment. Older refrigerants contained hydrocarbons that destroyed or reduced the ozone levels to reduce this from happening strict laws of handling and recovering a/c refrigerants were enacted & exhorbitant costs were placed on the offending refrigerants.In order to save some some money some untrained or knowledgeable people are continuing attempting to repair their systems risking injury like permanent eye injury.Is it worth it? No one (I believe ) intentionally desires to be hurt.However, by attempting to do something that you haven't been trained on can make you more susceptable to injury or accident. An in a instan one could trade off perfect vision to partial or even total blindness.This is not to just to scare you but gives you an opportunity to weigh all the decisions prior to attempting something one might be unfamiliar with.Most of the accidents I've witnessed at home and work were individuals taking short cuts,hurrying or attempting something unfamiliar with.Not all accidents fall into this category but be aware rehab is no fun and often not totally complete. Lets not compromise your safety and the well being of our environment.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
I pulled this from another web site
"The AC clutch relay is located inside the cab on a metal bracket that is easiest to see when you remove the glove box compartment.
The relay is on a metal bracket bolted to the top of the plastic air box, forward and to the center of the dash from glove box.
There are three relays in a row on that bracket. The AC clutch relay is the end one closest to the driver’s side."
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
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