Question about 1987 Chevrolet Camaro
My Iroc is an 88, 305 TPI. Starts fine. Idles good. If you take off slow and accelerate slow, it runs okay. But if you get on a hill or step down on the throttle to accelerate faster, it loses power, cuts out, the service light comes on. You may also get a fuel flooding type smell. The code reader says it is the MAF. It has now been through 3 new MAFS. All are from auto parts chains. The first MAF was without a screen and it was a fin type. The next two were screened with heated wires. Evidently the wires got burned out on them. A GM dealers service department that the car is now at diagnost the circuits to the MAF and did not find any faults or shorts. They now tell me that the car requires a MAF that would cost $800 or more. That is more than twice the price of the previous MAFs. Once the MAF is in, it is mine whether it works or not. A costly experiment. Do you have any other ideas? Could differences in these after market MAFs really be that prominent?
Inspecting your other problems first:(as yo replaced you MAF)
Take a real good look at the throttle "butterfly" valve. They have a tendency to get buildup with dirt and will stick slightly open, confusing the computer into thinking that you are pushing on the "go" pedal. Get some carb cleaner, or even better, GM Top Engine cleaner, and really clean out the throttle valve and air intake area. I have seen several similar problems fixed this way. If this does not take care of it, it may be worth paying someone an hours labor to hook up a good scanner and see what is going on. You can waste a lot of money on the newer cars throwing a lot of expensive parts at them and still not fixing the problem. It could be a simple loose connection somewhere. A good tech can catch this type of stuff with a good scan tool.
Always check the fuel pressure .
It might be the in tank fuel pump or clogged filter
checking that can be done by you easily:
you might check the ground wires that are located at various places on the engine
check your IAC valve (idle air control), this is located on the passenger side underneath the throttle body. These get all carboned up and can't re-seat themselves properly. You may have to perform a minimum idle setting also. This isn't to hard but is more complicated than on a non-computer controlled
MAF signal checking:
I used a small straigt pin and shoved it in the back side of the MAF connector on the signal line. I started the motor and expected to see the voltage signal to start low at idle and increase smoothly with engine speed. Instead what I saw was a stead 5 volts meaning the ECU had supplied the bias signal but the MAF wasn't loading it down to generate the signal. The issue was that the MAF socket pins in the connector were slightly sprung and had a thin layer of oxidation on them. I tiny rolled up piece of sand paper buffed the terminals up. A tiny pick probe was used to squeeze the socket pins closed slightly. A light doping of dielectric grease kept the moisture out and it's been running fine for 5 or so years no
Hope this helps,kindly RATE ME
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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