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the best way to test an alternator is with a load test-partstores dont do that--battery may still have a bad cell even tho it tested good--an alternator can burn up charging a completely dead batt--make sure batt reads at 12.6volts and no less-----if it reads say at 12.3 its only 50% charged!
no power, means, what, cig lighter plug dead,? try something else there, like a cell charger, still dead.? if it is truely dead, the fuse is blown. does head lights work, and engine run? ok fuses that bad are bad, blown. (blown elements) ok fuse that look GOOD, can in fact be bad, (tiny cracks.) we never fail to test good looking fuses or go nuts for sure. you can test fuse 3 ways. 1: DMM ohms, 0 ohms reading 2: voltmeter shows, 12v, on both sides of fuse, key on. 3: a fuse tester dealy bob at any autostore. (ill pass) there are other ways, but are way too complex to type. (ok a battery powered test light , yes, all auto stores sell them. glow with a good fuse) bingo?
The 1st thing to do is make sure the battery is not defective and that the battery post and cables are clean and free of corrosion and making a good connection, even if they seem ok clean them with a battery post and cable eyelet cleaning tool, they are available from any auto parts store for around $4.00, while u are there bring the battery with u and have it tested it is free at any of the many so called discount auto parts stores , these new sealed battery types can go just like that, one moment they crank the engine fine the next not, very common, have seen it dozens of times.
Usually from weak,(small gauge wire) cables , improper hook-up,(backwards) or not connected good. If your vehicle has something stuck on that is drawing lots of power is a possibility too. Match them up + to +, and - to -. Do negative last.
seems to me you neglected to reinstall the ground cable body (to the eng.) possibly? What did the 'new' engine come out of? I hope you bought the alternators from auto zone or something and are getting them replaced under the lifetime warranty...
This is what I would do... remove the battery cable from the battery after you shut of everything in the car... lights blower fan et al... and see if you are getting an arc when you reattach it. That will give you a clue to whether a dead short is involved (if it arcs strong ) . if you only get a spark it is normal , as there are draws that you can't dislocate w/o removing fuses. If you dont get the dead short arc , then put a lead on the - NEG. post and ground the neg. to the engine dirrectly from the battery to any bolt on the engine bigger than 10mm. ( a bracket or the instilation hooks on the eng. should give you a reliable ground. if that causes an arc while the car is running my first thought is correct. The lack of a good solid ground to the engine will cause the stalling out due to the numerous electrical componants that do thier job via variations in voltage. This voltage is measured in very small incriments, and any deviation from set limits will cause your engine to run poorly. It is my assumption that your battery starts the car , then the sole source of electric is being drawn from the altenater . My ¢.02