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Re: need to adjust the timing on my 98 mazda b-2500.
No way...If cam and crank are out of phase you can hurt the engine. Are you certain you did not just turn the engine after belt was in? Only other way to check without teardown is to use dial indicators on cam and piston (and that won't work if factory cam setting is not at tdc. some have built in "lead")
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you need to pull the timing back apart pull the number one spark plug and role the motor over by hand to top dead center on the compression stroke the the mark for the crank should be lined up or almost lined up line it up perfect on its mark then set the cam to its mark install belt role over by hand 2to4 full rotation marks should line up perfect . install crank pulley fire it up for a split second shut it off and put it all back together
think you have not put the timing back right and it will need to be re done. hope you used a new belt and adjuster when you put it back together. you need to re line the timing marks on cams and on crank. then put the belt on adjust up making sure the number 1 piston is at the top as well as the timing marks on the cam check this with the crank making, put belt on and adjust up then turn engine one full turn. no spark plugs fitted. back to the timing marks making sure they line up if not re adjust the time until it line back up every time you turn the engine one full turn. then put the spark plugs in etc and start enging.
Just like the person above commented....The good thing about doing one side at a time, if you forgot how it goes back together just look at the opposite side of axle as a guide so you can properly re-assemble. One side at a time! It is recommended to replace your old hardware with new at 100,000 miles. The Hardware kits are inexpensive to replace. Remember to adjust the new brakes with the adjuster sleeve and use the drum as a guide so you know you have them adjusted close. As a final step to adjust brakes when finished, safely drive vehicle in reverse applying brakes, this will put the final touch on the automatic method of adjusting your brakes.
Once the belt is removed, turn the crank pulley clockwise until the pin on the crank nut lines up with the notch at the 12 o'clock position just above it. The intake cam needs to be rotated so the "I" on the pulley is at the 12 o'clock position and the exhaust cam needs to be rotated so the "E" on the pulley is at the 12 o'clock position, then install the belt and adjust tension. Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and I think a 21mm socket for the crank pulley and a 17mm wrench for the cam pulleys.
unfortunately you do have to tear it all down, but it's not as bad as it sounds. the 4cyl is easy to work on. you don't have to put it all back together to find out if timing is correct. if you have a good fully charged battery just run the engine with only the timing belt attached. (of course be absolutley sure to keep tools, engine pars, and hands clear!)
put on the parking break and the trans in neutral
tear down to the timing belt
adjust to tdc (there is a hash mark on the cam gear)
remove or losen the idler pully
allign the timing gear and crank gear. there are marks on these from the factory install.
tighten idler pulley
run engine. it should be fairly obvious if it's too advanced or lagged when you give it some gas.
Buy a service manual, I just finished working on mine, it's a big job. You need to remove pass front wheel, plastic cover behind it, 2 belts of the pass side of the motor, motor mount, crankshaft pulley, timing belt covers, timing belt/tensioner, at this point you might be able to get to the water pump. Now get ready for the fun part of putting it all back on without making a mistake and destroying your engine. You can not get this done without a service manual. I know what I'm doing, and I probably could not do this without a book.
put the crank at TDC and the cam gear and TDC slip the belt on adjust the tensioner and then rotate the engine two times make sure the timing marks are still lined up then put it back together and try it if you have the timing off it wont idle right and if could also be the throttle positioning sensor
Did you remove timing belt when you changed w/pump? If so timing could be off and hopefully no damage as these engines are valve benders when timing is off. Also, could you have forgetten to plug in the distributor connector?