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Master cylinder brake bleed question do i have to hook up ABS fluid cycle machine to 2000 impala to bleed brakes after master cylinder change

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You should first bench blead a new master cyl before installing it on the car.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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No pressure on brake pedal 95 suburban 2500 4x4 7.4L


try bleeding your ABS block first, if that doesn not work could need a master or proportioning vavle. Some scan tools are capable of bleeding the ABS system on some vehicles, and some you have to bleed manually.

Apr 07, 2012 | 1995 Chevrolet Suburban

2 Answers

My breaks wont work after changing the front rotars, calipars and pads. I bleed all four breaks starting with the back passenger side then back drivers side then front passenger side then front drivers...


As a general rule, if you have ABS you might have to cycle the pumps and valves to purge the old fluid out of the unit. This is either done via a dealer scan tool, a purge valve/bleeder valve on the ABS unit, or a less than ethical way. Drive your car and heavily engage the ABS, you know what I'm talking about.
Then you will need to repeat the bleeding process that you have already done.
Normal non ABS brakes, bleed once.
ABS brakes, bleed, cycle then bleed again.

Aug 07, 2011 | Chrysler Cirrus Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I change my master cylinder for my brakes and now I have no brakes what could be my problem to that


you must have a lot of air in system. the brakes need bleed to let the air out of system. did you bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it on car ! if not thats why no brakes. to bench bleed a new master cylinder, put it in a vise. fill it full or the proper level of brake fluid. push on the plunger with a dowel or another object. pump it till all air is out of master cylinder, you can tell when no air. it will be all fluid coming out of cylinder. keep checking brake fluid in master cylinder.make sure you push plunger in all the way.when all air is gone replace on car. if you do not loose any fluid from the master cylinder lines, then you can replace it without having air in system. bleed each wheel if needed. good-day!

Jul 10, 2011 | 2006 Chevrolet Impala

1 Answer

I changed the rear brake calipers on my 2000 chevy Z71 i get oil out of both after bleeding but brake peddle still is spongy


Ok many people have this problem when they do brakes that ABS equiped. First of all make sure that all your connection are tight at the calipers. Check and make sure you have no visible leaks at all every where on the vehicle. Second alot of people do not know that the vehicle must be running when you bleed the brakes when the vehicle has ABS brakes. So the solution to your problem is very simple check to make sure master cylinder is full, then start your vehicle and have some one pump the brakes then hold down and open bleeder valve. You need to do this several times with ABS brakes,make sure you continue to check master cylinder fluid level continuously. Always start bleeding the brake that is farthest away from master cylinder first then continue to work your way to the closesest. Remeber when bleeding brakes when equiped with ABS the vehicle must be running to allow the ABS pump to run and bleed as well.

May 11, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Brake pedal goes too far to the floor on initial application, pumping brings the pedal up, bled several times


Sounds like an internal leak in the master cylinder, an external brake fluid leak (such as a leaking brake line), or extreme misadjustment or binding of the calipers or drums. Any could be the case, and you can eliminate the last 2 rather easily. Do you see any sign of fluid coming from any of the brake lines? If not, move to adjustments. Check the calipers for bound up caliper pins and if equiped with rear drum brakes, the adjustment and condition of the rear shoes. After that, go right for the throat and replace the master cylinder. Be sure to bench bleed it before you install it, and if you have ABS, make sure you also bleed the ABS system, OR if you can't bleed the ABS system have the new master cylinder ready to install, and remove the brake lines as quickly as possible from the old master and have a friend hold thier fingers over the ends of the lines. I do this quite a bit at my shop, and it's VERY rare that I actualy need to bleed the ABS after replacing a master cylinder if little to no air gets in the brake lines.

Dec 10, 2009 | 2000 Subaru Outback

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes 2000 suburban wsith ab


Why were the brake lines replaced?

Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...

if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.

Sep 20, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

Spongy brakes


Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.

May 31, 2009 | 2000 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake


The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Mar 15, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier

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