2005 Honda Odyssey EX-L RES, 106k,reg maintenance. Chewing thru pads every 5-6 mo, positive brakes were dragging so replaced everything including all 4 calipers. Brakes still dragging and you can hear calipers piston engage when braking -so much so that you can hear which tire brakes first if they go off out of unison. ABS working fine, no lights or glitches and no grinding sounds with pedal softness like you'd get if there was an issue also. No codes coming up,no warning lights on dash and no other telltale signs that scream "brake problem". No pedal softness, so no issue with master cylinder. No leaks and no reason to believe air in lines. There was a kink in one line right by driver front tire after garage did some work but we had lots of problems with their "work" and had to replace parts they used as they all started to fail within the first month after work (strong armed by our AF insurance noting this was a preferred elite vendor on their list but they had great name with initial great results but with a background in mechanics you realized quickly that the "preferred" non OEM parts were really really bad). So, been thru the gamut and am kind of stuck on this one. I've heard of a pressure valve that may be bad or an issue with some Hondas needing a back off on the ER brake as if it somehow tightens up it can throw the brakes off. Any help/thoughts/ideas greatly appreciated. Thanks much.
Sounds like a proportioning valve/sensor or abs module fault. Seen this a few times on various makes / models - the module doesn't show any faults, so is the last item to be suspected...
SOURCE: brakes
Flexible brake lines are probably balooning out causing pressure not to build up, replace flexible to the calipers.
SOURCE: 1996 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER SOFT BRAKE PEDAL AIR IN LINES
I am a hydraulic technician and I can tell you that air is a killer in the hydraulic system.
Start from the rear and work your way forward. I f you are using the two person method, make sure the second person keeps the master cylinder full. If the fluid level dropped anywhere in between pressing and releasing the brakes....you have a lot of air in the system.
Make sure you are tightening the bleed valve when the brake pedal is full pressed.
Remeber...start from the rear brakes first, then do the front.
SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
SOURCE: I hve a 96 chevy
you may have air trapped in the ABS EHCU. Did you use this procedure?
Bleeding the EHCU
Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required. Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn before bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false trouble codes may be set.
SOURCE: No pressure on brake pedal 95 suburban 2500 4x4 7.4L
try bleeding your ABS block first, if that doesn not work could need a master or proportioning vavle. Some scan tools are capable of bleeding the ABS system on some vehicles, and some you have to bleed manually.
Fig. Fig. 1: The pads can be viewed through the inspection hole
Remember that you are looking at the profile of the pad, not the whole thing. Brake pads can wear on a taper which may not be visible through the window. It is also not possible to check the contact surface for cracking or scoring from this position. This quick check can be helpful only as a reference; detailed inspection requires pad removal.
Fig. Fig. 2: It is best to remove the pads to check for taper
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7
CAUTION
If the car was recently driven, the brake components will be hot. Wear protective gloves.
Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the lower caliper retaining bolt ...
Fig. Fig. 4: ... and pivot the caliper upward, off the pads
Fig. Fig. 5: Remove the pads, shims ...
Fig. Fig. 6: ... and pad retainers
To install:
Fig. Fig. 7: Front brake pad components
An impact driver, No. 3 phillips screwdriver bit, and a hammer may be needed to remove the retaining screw. It is fairly easy to destroy the screw slots using an ordinary phillips screwdriver to remove the tightly driven screw (see photo).
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