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Re: C240 AC Not Working
Compressor = Pump
Condenser = Radiator
Unless there is actually something wrong with the condenser (i.e. it has a hole in it and is leaking refrigerant) then there would be no reason to change it just because you are changing the compressor.
It would be a bit like changing all the radiators in your house just because the central heating pump stopped working!
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The best I can tell u is that the smell is from a leak at the evaporator or connections. I advise to get another opinion because it sounds like a lot of guesswork. if u get the work done, make sure the work comes with a warrantee! I gave all my customers warrantees for 20 years. That's part of the diagnostic business! Good Luck If u don't get a warrantee ,don't get the diagnosis or work done
you have a leak and if you can hear it or smell it its a good one, most likely its a connecting leak where ever the components connect to each other. with an internal seal leak, such as compressor or evaporator, your freon will last about a month,with a external connection leak, your freon last a couple days
Hello Based on what you have said and my 30 years a Ford dealer tech I believe you have a slightly low AC system refrigerant charge due to a small leak at the AC compressor or the AC line connections. I would have a shop hook up a set of gauges to monitor the pressures at idle and see just how low it is. DO NOT ADD UNTIL YOU KNOW HOW MUCH IS NEEDED, YOU CAN LOCK UP THE COMPRESSOR.
The expansion valve is not working correctly on the a/c system. It is restricting the flow of freon from the a/c compressor to the condensor. So over a peroid of time driving the line will slowly freeze up and stop the flow of freon and the a/c will stop working completely. Will need to take it to a service center to have the freon gas removed and replace the valve. hope this will help you!!!
If the system was workin enough for you to add freon and stop leak you may have overcharged the system and blew out the location of the leak to make it lose enough charge that it shut down from being low on charge. There is a low pressure switch that will stop the clutch on the compressor from engaging when low on charge. The hose connections have O-rings and the system needs to be discharged and the Freon captured to replace the O-rings. ALL O-rings should be replaced at once if that is the case. Look to see where the red dye showed up if you put in the stop leak. Normally the seal in the compressor is what starts leaking first. It sounds like your leak is bad enough that stop leak will not be the answer so you may have to break down and take it to a shop to check the system.
that seems to be the problem. If the fan does not turn on when the a/c is turned on it could be a fuse, relay, control box, or just a bad fan. Try connecting the fan directly to see if it works. Does this car have 2 fans? normally all the small cars have 2 fans one for the engine cooling and one to assist the first when the a/c is turned on. Without the fan pulling air through the a/c condensor the had pressure goes up high enough to shut off the a/c compressor. It also causes some cars to run warmer than usual when stopped. Check the a/c condensor for blockage also which doesn't have anything to do with your fan not working.
it is a premature failure, That does indicate a bad/failiing compressor, or low oil charge, to low freon. If you trust the mechanic then go witht he compressor replacement and condensor. Unfortunately most oarts stores/shops require the condesor to be replaced for warranty purposes on compressor replacements.
When the A/C compressor was replaced and recharged, was the system vacuumed and the accumulator and orifice tube (expansion valve) replaced too. Also was the right amount R134a in the system to run properly??
To diagnose problems, an A/C manifold gauge set is needed to read high and low side pressure readings. Avoid adding refrigerant with a simple charging kit like the ones sold at parts stores. Don’t add any stop leak, this can cause problems in the compressor, expansion valve or condenser. Keep in mind that using an A/C gauge set and seeing BOTH high and low side readings can help in diagnosing the problem when you know what to look for. First, on a 134A system the high and low side service ports are different sizes. AC gauge sets have color coded hoses, the blue color coded hose has a connection that fits on the low side service port and the red hose has a connection that will only fit onto the high side. The yellow hose won’t hook up to anything if just checking the readings; it can be used to connect to a vacuum pump or attached to a refrigerant can or tank. Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) - Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s - Ranges from 25-35 PSI - Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better! Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor. With the AC on the coldest setting, use a thermometer in a middle vent. Normal vent temperature readings will vary depending on the (ambient) outside temp. The vent temperature should range from around 42-55 degrees in my experience. If normal gauge readings are obtained and the vent air is cold - STOP don’t overcharge the system. The only proper way to remove refrigerant is with a AC recovery machine so if this is being done at home I can’t emphasize enough not to over charge the system. And actually the best way to insure the proper charge is in a system, is to use an AC machine to recover the R134a and then evacuate and recharge the system with the correct amount. Most cars have the specified amount on a decal under the hood. Both low and high side readings are lower than normal, this indicates a cars AC system is low on refrigerant and is under-charged. If both low and high side readings are too high, this indicates an overcharged system - too much refrigerant. This also can indicate that the condenser fan is not working, is too slow or the car is overheating and heat is transferring from the radiator to the condenser. When the low side goes so low that it’s reading shows it is in a vacuum, the most likely cause is a bad expansion valve or blocked orifice tube. Another possibility is a restricted condenser. Blocked condensers are not as common as they used to be but if a compressor fails and comes apart inside the remnants can end up in the condenser causing it to restrict the flow of refrigerant. When the compressor clutch is definitely engaged and the low side is high and the high side is low, the most likely cause is that the compressor is failing - it is not pumping sufficiently. Rarely an AC clutch could be slipping but usually this will be accompanied with a squeal or chirp. I hope this will help you understand why the comprssor failed, Keep me posted, be glad to help you get your A/C running 100% again.
Put a new belt on it and spray the condenser coil in front of the radiator with a hose when it gets up to temp or the sound starts and see if it stops. Thats what I did today. Flapping/clacking stops for about 10 minutes until thing get hot again.A/C blowing cold air the entire time.