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This sounds as if you have a wheel bearing that is going bad. Something that should be addressed as soon as possible. Your footnote indicates that the sound goes away when you turn right. What is happening is you are transferring the weight of the car to the left side of the car when turning right, thus relieving pressure on the right side wheel bearings. This is what is making the sound dissipate. This of course would have to same result if the bad bearing was on the opposing side and you turned left.
A method to double check this is to park your car on a level surface and chock your front wheels, as you have stated you can here the sound in the rear. Using a jack and jack stands lift the rear of the vehicle high enough so that the rear tires are off the ground. You want to make sure that the car is on a level surface and that the front wheels are chocked from rolling either forward or backward. You want to then put your vehicle in Neutral if it is a rear wheel drive and release the parking brake. If it is a front wheel drive leave the car in Park and release the parking brake.
Once you are sure that your vehicle is secure and stable, find a point on the shock tower or spring connected the wheel you are testing and place one hand on it. With your free hand, spin the wheel. You should feel no vibration if the bearing is good. Do the same test on the other side for comparison. Which ever of the two sides has apparent vibration, that is the side you will find the bad bearing.
'84 ...*lotsa* miles on it ....like 450K plus if you drive the "normal" 15K/year. First, and most likely, thing that comes to mind is the wheel bearing has seized. Since this is a front wheel drive car, there are sealed roller bearings for the rear wheel hubs. At 450K on the odometer there are *lots* of components that have reached or exceeded their normal service life. I would suspect the left rear sealed wheel bearing is one of them ...followed closely by the right rear wheel bearing. If it's the bearing? Get them both done.
Bad screw torque,ceck the wheel,can be loose.Shake by hand or foot.If not loose ,yet moving,bad bearing.If is not the wheel must track the sound:loose muffler,trunk spare.Ceck for things stucked betwen the wheel and the chassis.Squiking noise may point draging brake,bad bearing,must jack-up and move the wheel.So low on details...Cheers
cv joints don't always click, mainly they click when turning, But worn ones will also make noise,, since you have to remove the wheel anyway ,, I'd check the bearing first, then move onto the cv joints
Fotolia.com" data-type="modal"> Replace the bearing and race as a single set.automotive roller bearing. image by Tom Oliveira from Fotolia.com
Before raising the rear of your Honda, remove the dust cup from the center of the brake drums using a hammer and chisel. This will give you access to the spindle nut, which you can loosen using an axle nut socket. Then you can raise and remove the wheel/tire assembly ,or assemblies if you are replacing the bearings on both wheels.
If your Honda model is equipped with rear disc brakes, remove the brake disc retaining screws, the brake hose bracket from the steering knuckle and caliper bracket mounting bolts. Hang the caliper to the coil spring using wire. Do not let the caliper hang free or the brake hose may be damaged.
At this point, you will be able to remove the brake disc by hand. However, rust may have a firm grip on the disc. If this is the case, use a couple of 8-by-1.25 mm bolts and screw them evenly into the brake disc threaded holes. This will push the disc off the hub. Now you can finish removing the spindle nut and hub/wheel bearing assembly and install the new hub/wheel bearing assembly using a new spindle nut
Fotolia.com" data-type="modal"> Pack the bearing with bearing grease before installation.roller bearing image by Tom Oliveira from Fotolia.com
If your HondaCivic comes equipped with rear brake drums, remove the center grease cup and loosen the axle spindle nut using an axle nut socket. After raising and removing the wheel/tire assembly, finish removing the axle nut and washer.
You might be able to remove the outer wheel bearing from the spindle using a screwdriver. If not, wiggle the brake drum as you pull on it to let the bearing fall off the spindle. However, the brake drum might be caught in place by the brake shoes. In this case, you can retract the brake shoes through the hole in the back of the backing plate.
Remove the rubber plug from the back of the backing plate. Then rotate the star wheel on the adjusting screw using a brake adjusting tool as you push the lever off the start wheel with a screwdriver. With the brake shoes off the brake drum, pull the brake drum off the wheel assembly. Then clean the brake assembly with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free towel.
Now you can set the brake drum on a workbench or hard surface and remove the grease seal and inner wheel bearing. The inner and outer wheel-bearing races can be removed using a drift punch and hammer. Pack the new wheel bearings with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease using a wheel-bearing packer and use a new grease seal during installation. Also, before reinstalling the brake drum, apply a thick coat of wheel-bearing grease to the cavity inside the hub, but do not fill it completely.
Place parking brake lever in -full released- position.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove plug in parking brake shoe support to access adjuster star-wheel.
Through the access hole, rotate the adjuster star wheel in the following direction to expand the shoes outward against the drum:
Left brake - Rotate star-wheel toward rear of vehicle.
Right brake - Rotate star-wheel toward front of vehicle.
Using an appropriate tool, turn adjuster star wheel until wheel will not rotate (dead lock).
Back off adjuster six detents (teeth).
Rotate wheel, checking for light drag. If drag is too heavy, continue to back off adjuster one detent at a time until light drag is present. Do not back off star-wheel more than 17 detents from wheel lock.
Install access plug.
Adjust opposite wheel parking brake shoes using same method.
Apply and release parking brake lever once to ensure proper operation of parking brakes.
Removal & Installation
The following procedure may be used to remove shoes on either side of the vehicle.
Lock out automatic adjuster in parking brake lever.
Raise and support vehicle.
Access and remove rear hub and bearing.
Remove parking brake cable bolt at knuckle.
Completely back off parking brake shoe adjustment.
Remove parking brake shoe adjuster spring.
Remove shoe adjuster.
Remove upper brake shoe hold-down clip and pin.
Remove lower brake shoe hold-down clip and pin.
Remove upper and lower shoes with return spring from shoe actuator.
Remove return spring from shoes.
Fig. View of the actuator (1), support (2), adjuster spring (3), return spring (4), caliper adapter (5), shoes (6), hold-down clips and pins (7) and adjuster (8)
Install return spring between upper and lower shoes.
Before installing shoes on actuator, make sure actuator hooked to rear cable is positioned with word -UP- facing outward.
Install upper and lower shoes with return spring on shoe actuator located on parking brake cable.
Install lower brake shoe hold-down pin through rear of support and lower shoe, then install hold-down clip.
Install upper brake shoe hold-down pin through rear of support and upper shoe, then install hold-down clip.
Install shoe adjuster. Place end of adjuster with star wheel upward.
Install parking brake shoe adjuster spring.
Install bolt securing parking brake cable to knuckle and tighten bolt to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
Using Brake Shoe Gauge, Special Tool C-3919, or equivalent, measure inside diameter of parking brake drum portion of rotor.
Place Gauge over parking brake shoes at widest point.
Using adjuster star wheel, adjust parking brake shoes until linings on both park brake shoes just touch jaws on gauge. This will give a good preliminary adjustment of parking brake shoes, before a final adjustment is made at end of this procedure.
Install hub and bearing with wheel speed sensor as well as all components necessary to access it.
Unlock automatic adjuster in parking brake lever.
Perform final adjustment of parking brake shoes
This vehicle is equipped with permanently sealed rear wheel bearings. There is no periodic lubrication or maintenance recommended for these units.
Removal & Installation
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove wheel mounting nuts, then tire and wheel assembly.
If equipped with AWD:
Remove cotter pin, nut lock and spring washer from half shaft.
While a helper applies brakes to keep hub from turning, remove hub nut and washer.
Remove brake caliper and rotor from hub and bearing assembly.
Fig. Hub assembly
Disconnect vehicle wiring harness connector at wheel speed sensor connector.
Unclip wheel speed sensor connector from spare tire mounting support.
Disconnect two sensor cable routing clips on rear suspension crossmember.
Disconnect two sensor cable routing clips along toe link.
Disconnect sensor cable from bracket on brake support.
Completely loosen, but do not remove four bolts fastening hub and bearing in place. Once loosened from threads in hub and bearing, push bolts up against rear of hub and bearing to keep brake support plate in place when hub and bearing is removed.
Fig. Rear hub and bearing mounting bolts
Pull hub and bearing off knuckle and half shaft (if equipped with AWD), then thread wheel speed sensor cable through hole in brake support plate as it is removed with hub and bearing.
Position hub and bearing bolts though rear of knuckle and parking brake support just enough to hold support in place as hub and bearing is installed.
Install hub and bearing by first feeding end of wheel speed sensor cable through hole in bottom of parking brake support. As this is being done, if equipped with AWD, slide hub and bearing onto half shaft. Place hub and bearing through brake support, onto knuckle, lining up mounting bolt holes with bolts and placing wheel speed sensor head at bottom.
Install four bolts fastening hub and bearing in place. Tighten mounting bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).
Place wheel speed sensor cable routing grommet into bracket on parking brake support.
Route wheel speed sensor cable along toe link and rear suspension crossmember connecting routing clips where shown.
Connect vehicle wiring harness to wheel speed sensor connector.
Install brake rotor and caliper.
If equipped with AWD:
Install washer and hub nut on end of half shaft.
While a helper applies brakes to keep hub from turning, tighten hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm).
Install spring washer, nut lock and cotter pin on end of half shaft.
Install tire and wheel assembly. Install and tighten wheel mounting nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
Check the fluid in the case, and also, after engaging, turn the truck off, and climb under to make sure nothing is hitting/rubbing. Just to sort of isolate the issue, you have engaged the case, and the sound only happens when in 4wd. It is either the inside of the case, the output bearing toward the front differential, or the front differential itself which would be really rare. Just double check your fluid. I just rebuilt one that had an unknown hole and it costs a fortune. Thanks.
You either have a bad wheel bearing, or a bad brake pad. Does it do this only when you apply the brakes, or making turns, or is it continues. If its only while using the brakes, most likely the brake pads are worn. If it only does this while making turns, may be wheel bearing. Remove the front driver wheel and inspect the brake pad liners. check the thickness of the pads, make sure the pads are not metal to metal. to check the wheel bearing, while wheel is still on the car, put the front of car on jack stands, while wheel is off the ground spin the wheel and listen for any noise that sounds like the sound it was making while driving. If it makes this noise, you then can take a steel tube about 3 to 5 feet long, put it under the wheel and lift up and down on the wheel, and notice if it has any movement or play as you lift it up and down, if it moves, then likely its the wheel bearing.