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Answer - I have a 2012 Toyota Sequoia and the Check Engine light came on and then the Trac Off light came on. The car felt like it was in 4 wheel drive. I read around and found two things that I had to do to get the car fixed.
(1) Clean the gas cap, lubricate the "O" ring around the gas cap, and read the gas cap. It has to click at least once. Make sure there is no gunk around the gas nozzle as well so that the cap and nozzle get a tight seal.
(2) I unscrewed the battery cables positive then negative. I let them be disconnected for 10 minutes. I returned connected the battery and both warning lights were now off and car was back to normal (other than having to reset clocks, radio, etc).
Note: I did notice that the car at first did not idle as it did beforehand. It took a few minutes of me driving around the neighborhood and then the idling returned to normal. Hope this helps.
When a repair is done on a vehicle, it takes 2 drive cycles for the ECM, ( electronic control module/computer ) to recognize that a repair has been made.
A drive cycle covers many things that you normally do when you drive the vehicle, including low speed driving, highway speed, braking, idleing. Turn the key off and then do it again.
Dealeships have the equipment to just update the ECM.
If you haven't made two drive cycles you may find the light will go off after the second drive cycle is made.
Without knowing the original symptoms I can't help you beyond this, although you may check your gas cap to make sure it's tight, if it's not it can, and often does cause the check engine light to come on.
Check that your gas cap is on tight (clicks). Take your car to an auto store and have them read the codes(usually free). They can tell you what the codes mean. You may only need a new oxygen sensor. I have a Mitsubishi that the light regularly turns on in the winter and off in the summer(196,000 miles). Gas mileage is stable. Your car is newer but a road trip may be all it needs to turn off the light.
The purpose of the check engine light is to inform the driver that the car's ECM has registered a problem. It then stores a code in it's memory that can then be "pulled" by a hand held diagnostic trouble code reader and usually the issue an be corrected. More times than not, the car will seem to be running fine even with the light on because the ECM will compensate for the problem as much as it can to keep the system functioning. One thing you can do is remove the gas cap and put it back on making sure that you securely tighten it until you hear 3 clicks. After driving the car for 30-50 miles, the light may go out. If it does then the gas cap was not tightened completely causing air to enter the system (the system utilizes vacuum so it must be sealed air tight). If the light stays on, take it to a Dealer or trusted mechanic for further inspection. ALWAYS BE SURE YOUR GAS CAP IS TIGHTLY SECURED AFTER EVERY FILL UP OR THE LIGHT WILL COME ON AGAIN>
Sounds like the Fuel Evap Purge Valve is stuck. When open, this valve channels gas vapors from your tank into your intake when you crank the engine. If it gets stuck open, then it could lead to additional air in your intake which upsets your fuel/air mix and leads to poor performance. Have the dealership check it out for you.
Also, make sure your gas cap is on tight. The code is thrown when the pressure in your gas tank is off which indicates a possible problem with the valve but a loose cap can also cause the code.
Did you use the correct plugs? When I mean "correct", did you buy them from a Toyota parts dept? Those engines are designed for a specific plug, and if you have the wrong ones in it, expect problems. many times I have had customer come in with poor driveability, and it turns out to be that they installed aftermarket plugs.
If you disconnect your battery for 5-10 minutes this will most likely reset it. If it comes back on again, however, your computer is probably receiving a trouble code of some sort, and it would be worthwhile to bring it in to have the code read.