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Re: What dors the fusible lnk that feeds the pink &...
Fusible link insures that a short from alt or starter or which ever circuit it is connected to will not cause car to catch on fire. Direct short in circuit or component supplied by that particular fuseable link.
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Check the 10 amp fuse on the rear of the radio. As its recieving a memory live power feed but not a ignition live feed hence the flashing red light. If the fuse isnt blown you need to then check the ignition live power feed cable as its probably open circuit did you use a wiring harness adaptor?
Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Follow one of the + battery connections, may go to a bunch of fusible links, there should be voltage on both sides of fusible link or it is faulty.
Or, pick one component that is fuse protected and doesn't work, check that fuse circuit for voltage, use a test lite. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on. What is litre size of engine? Is it 4wd or 2?
One wiring diagram I looked at, had two red wires carrying voltage to ignition switch, hot all the time, if you think problem is ignition feed?
Do you know what a fusible link is ? Coming off the starter solenoid (beside Battery cable ) are other wires . These wires are power feeds to various systems of the vehicle ,an one is to the Ignition switch .I have seen many burnt fusible links cause no power issues . Pull on the outside insulation an if it stretches the inside part is burnt in half .
If the truck had a three terminal one on it then you would not use the (I) terminal, nor would it cause you to keep blowing your fusible link. It would cause a hard start cold because all the (I) terminal does is feed 12v directly to the coil on cranking. You have a short in the circuit that is on that fusible link. You need to get a wiring diagram and see what that circuit feeds. If the fuel pump isn't running than disconnect that circuit and see if it keeps the link from blowing. You may have to get a circuit breaker to install temporarily it to help find short. I have used a breaker and have gone directly to the fuse box and feed there to help isolate which circuit it is in. Good luck.
The Fuse Link That You Are Writing About Should Be Black, Going To A Red Wire. It Is On Junction Block, Not On Battery. It Feeds The Fuse Panel And The Ignition Switch. Junction Blocks Had Problems ie: Dirty and/or Loose Connections On Links.
Suggest you clean ENTIRE junction block and connections, and make sure all are SNUG--Don't Overtighten. If any won't tighten Junction Block has to be replaced. If further help needed, I have complete Wiring Diagram.
If there is no power going INTO the ignition switch, you most likely have a burned fusible link. The ignition switch gets its power from fusible link "A" It is a 16 Gauge, BLACK fusible link connected to the YELLOW wire for circuit #37. The fusible link is connected to the starter relay located on the left fender apron between the washer fluid reservoir and the strut tower.
Circuit #37splits into 3 "legs" at splice #S105. One leg of this circuit goes to the fuse block where it feeds fuse #1 (15 Amp) and fuse #2 (10 Amp).
The other two legs of this circuit BOTH go to the ignition switch. (you should have TWO large yellow wires connected to the ignition switch.)
I would have suspected the ignition switch, but it sounds like you've replaced it. It is internal to the housing you described. The first thing to do is to actually check for power at the ignition switch. There are 2 connectors going to it. One provides power, the other sends out power when key is turned. Check for good 12V at both the larger red wires, they should be battery powered and live all the time. If you have power on them then turn the key to run, you should have power on the orange wires (ignition feeds). The large yellow wire should only have power when key is in crank position. If there is not 12V at the red wires all the time then likely you have a large (maxi fuse 60A) under the hood electrical center blown. It could also be a blown fusible link coming off the starter battery post that feeds the electrical center if the fuses are good but no power across them.
The engine compartment wiring harness has several fusible links. The same size wire with a special hypalon insulation must be used when replacing a fusible link.
The links are located in the following areas:
A molded splice at the starter solenoid Bat terminal, a 14 gauge red wire.
A 16 gauge red fusible link at the junction block to protect the unfused wiring of 12 gauge or larger wire. This link stops at the bulkhead connector.
The alternator warning light and field circuitry is protected by a 20 gauge red wire fusible link used in the battery feed to voltage regular #3 terminal. The link is installed as a molded splice in the circuit at the junction block.
The ammeter circuit is protected by two 20 gauge fusible links installed as molded splices in the circuit at the junction block and battery to starter circuit.
Other things it MIGHT be are the ignition switch, located on top of the steering column:
The other thing it MIGHT be is a faulty ignition cylinder (where your key goes into to start the K10).
Check the wire harness on the steering column also.
magnetic pellet ,doesn't have one . Besides it's not a magnetic pellet . It would be a resistor pellet for the anti- theft system , which your vehicle does have . And it wouldn't be the ignition lock cylinder either if you can turn the key to the start position . Possibly the electrical part of the ignition switch . Viewing a wiring diagram for power flow and checking with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter would be the proper way to diagnose .Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Under system click electrical distribution ,then under subsystem click on power distribution . Click the search button then the blue links . The light's work because they have seperate power supply ,looking at first diagram you will see this . Thrid diagram down is ignition switch power feed . Top right of the page you will see the letter A , that gets B+ voltage from fusible link B . Finding the ignition switch under the dash on the bottom of the steering column an testing for B+ voltage on the red wire . If B+ voltage is there fusible link is good . Fusible link B is attached at the starter solenoid .B+ stud . If there is B+ power to the ignition switch check for power from the switch .Can you figure that out ? You should also check out some videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
I had a hardtimefinding this informaton, hope it helps.
fuses Fuse link cartridge 2A Grey Grey — — — 3A Violet Violet — — — 4A Pink Pink — — — 5A Tan Tan — — — 7.5A Brown Brown — — — 10A Red Red — — — 15A Blue Blue — — — 20A Yellow Yellow Yellow Blue Blue 25A Natural Natural — — — 30A Green Green Green Pink Pink 40A — — Orange Green Green 50A — — Red Red Red 60A — — Blue — Yellow 70A — — Tan — Brown 80A — — Natural — Black
Passenger compartment fuse panel / power distribution box
The fuse panel is located below and to the left of the steering wheel by the brake pedal. Remove the panel cover to access the fuses.
To remove the fuse panel cover, turn the panel fasteners counterclockwise.
To remove a fuse use the fuse puller tool provided on the fuse panel cover.
The fuses are coded as follows.
Fuse/Relay Location Fuse Amp Rating Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel Description 1 15A* Adjustable pedals 2 20A* Power point -floor console 3 20A* Power point – 3rd row 4 20A* Power point -instrument panel 20A* Power point -right rear quarter 6 20A* Trailer tow turn/stop relay 7 30A* High beam headlamps / Flash to pass 8 — Not used 9 20A* Heated mirrors 10A* A/C clutch 11 20A* Radio (main) 12 20A* Cigar lighter / OBD II 13 5A* Power mirrors/switches 14 15A* Daytime running lamps 10A* Driver’s seat module memory 16 15A* Rear seat controller 17 15A* Exterior lamps 18 20A* Turn lamps/Brake on-off switch (high) 19 10A* Body security module/4x4 module — Not used 21 25A* Rear wiper motor 22 20A* Engine control 23 20A* Engine control 24 15A* Air suspension 10A* 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) module 26 10A* Airbags 27 15A* Ignition switch Run feed 28 10A* EATC module module/Front blower relay coil 29 10A* Customer access
Fuse/Relay Location Fuse Amp Rating Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel Description 30 15A* Highbeam headlamps 31 15A* Clutch interlock switch 32 5A* Radio (start) 33 15A* Front wiper 34 10A* Brake on-off switch 35 10A* Instrument cluster 36 10A* PCM Keep-Alive 37 15A* Horn 38 20A* Trailer tow park lamps and backup lamps 39 — Not used 40 20A* Fuel pump 41 10A* Instrument cluster 42 15A* Delayed accessory 43 10A* Fog lamps 44 10A* PATS module, transceiver 45 10A* Ignition switch Run/ Start feed 46 10A* Left-hand lowbeam 47 10A* Right-hand lowbeam 48 10A* Rear wiper motor 101 30A** Trailer tow electric brake 102 30A** Door locks/Body security module 103 50A** Ignition switch 104 40A** Heated backlite 105 30A** Injector driver module 106 30A** Front wiper main 107 40A** Front blower motor 108 40A** Auxiliary blower motor 109 30A** Heated seats 110 50A** Ignition switch 111 30A** 4WD/Shift on the fly 112 30A** Left-hand power seats
Fuse/Relay Location Fuse Amp Rating Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel Description 113 30A** Starter motor 114 30A** Right-hand power seats 115 20A** Trailer tow battery charge 116 30A** Ignition switch 601 30A CB Door window motors 602 60A** 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS) module 210 — Not used 211 — Not used 212 — Not used 301 — Front blower motor relay 302 — Powertrain (EEC) relay 303 — Injector driver module relay (Diesel only) 304 — Heated backlite relay 305 — Trailer tow battery charge relay 306 — Delayed accessory relay 307 — Starter relay * Mini Fuses ** Maxi Fuses