Question about 1988 GMC S-15

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Where is the cap & Rotor on the 2.5L motor? How can I find it?

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  • tim_tardino Feb 17, 2010

    is it behind the pass. wheell?



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Start at your spark plugs follow them "the wires" (all of them) they should all be located at one central place. This is your cap sometimes they are black or brown or hope this helps

Posted on Aug 28, 2009


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Replaced plugs on my 1999 nissan altimua with NKG plugs car is still idling rough CEL still coming on

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Broke rotor bug in dist. replaced rotor dist. cap sparkplugs . in what direction does the rotor turn

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Van sputters on wet days and does not sputter when dry outside. When you come to a complete stop (when it sputters) the van will die.

Not really much detail about what kind of vehicle you have or what motor But it sounds like you have condesation in the cap or the ignition wires are holding moisture. Start by replacing the distributer cap and rotor if this does not solve it then replace the ignition wires and this should solve your problem cap & rotor around $60 and wires are around $100

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I need to do a tune up on my 2002 Venture. Can you help?

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I mixed the distributor cables up,so i need the order to correctly connect

If the wires are still in the distributer, AND, if you have a stock intake manifold, the firing order is on the manifold. If it's a V-8, the number 1, 3, 5, & 7 plugs are on the drivers side of the engine. The number 2, 4, 6, & 8 plugs are on the passenger side. The number 1 plug wire can be located by looking at the distributer from the front of the engine and visually looking between the distributer and the number 1 plug. Visualize the distributer as a clock. The number one position should be located between 4 and 5 o'clock and should have the longest wire of those on that side of the distributer.

If the wires have been pulled from the distributer, then, then, remove the rotor cap, turn the engine over slowly until the rotor is pointing to the number 1 plug. Using the firing order on the intake manifold, starting with number 1, replace the wires going clockwise around the distributer.

Apr 09, 2011 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1993 chevy suburban, engine has been popping and skipping now has stopped running at all, could it be the distributor cap and rotor button have gone bad ?

its possible it needs tune up but also check the timing. alot of chevy's spit and pop and when you shut them off and go to start later they wont, this is when the timing cam gear goes bad and out of time. turn crank to top dead center (TDC) on timing mark on front of engine cover or tab first, then remove dist cap and notice where the supply point of the rotor is facing. is it pointing to the # cylinder (very front of motor on the driver side)? Or is it aiming to the plug wire location on the dist cap that goes to the # 1 spark plug. ( the front plug on the driver side of motor )? If neither of these are in line then timing is out of wak. If it's all good then check plugs for old worn or burnt electrodes then check rotor with multi testor for current travel, then check cap for electrode failure and then check plug wires for current loss and burn. then perform a compression check on motor. (dry & wet)

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1 Answer

How to find out why there is no spark getting to the spark plug

probably bad incorrect cap/rotor.
maybe pickup coil but probably not.
pop off the cap look at the brush/contact between rotor and cap, if messy lightly pull brush from cap and also cap use fine sandpaper to clean them, then push brush in till you hear a pop and reinstall rotor & try starting. or replace cap and rotor.

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overhaul of carb needed, check the vaccum advancer for wear n tear, rapace f necessary fo

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I have a 97 suburban that keeps burning the cap and rotor, When I replace them it runs great for about a month and then it starts missing and then within about 6 months it burns out and wont run. Thanks,...

Ive seen caps develop tracking, but cannot remember ever seeing one burn out...What does it look like when that happens? Also, I'll assume it is burning for now...have you tried a high quality cap & rotor like the blue ones made by Standard Motor Products? (they have a high dilectric# and can handle voltage far in excess of what a stock coil can produce.

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