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Re: knocking noise in engine 1998 jeep cherokee
Knocking noise can come from one of three places. Broken flywheel, Worn rod or main bearing. (bearing problems usually are accompanied by lowered oil pressure) An experienced technician can usually tell which is which. If bearing wear is on the rod bearings only and is light, it can usually be corrected. Main bearings require engine removal and is far more expensive. The oil pump should be replaced with either, but is not the cause of the problem. Extreme wear on bearings will also damage crankshaft. If so, it must be replaced.
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First confirm the oil level is adequate by checking the dip stick. If the oil level is okay you may have a partial blockage that is starving the oil line leading to the sensor. Missed regularly scheduled oil changes may result in this happening.
If sludge is the problem your dealer can recommend an oil additive that may clear out the problem.
You may also have a failed sensor as well.
First, if the noise is from the upper part of the engine and is more of a tapping than a knock, likely you have a problem in the valvetrain, most often a bad lifter or worn rocker arm. If the noise is low, deep inside, the noise is from a bearing. This is generally accompanied by lower than normal oil pressure. Regardless of the underlying cause, correcting the cause will not stop the knock. To do that correctly, the engine needs to be removed and all crankshaft bearings and the crankshaft itself need to be replaced (crank can sometimes be "undercut" and thicker bearing shells can be used depending upon the amount of wear.) If caught very early, sometimes only one bearing can be replaced in-car, but in 99% of all cases I have ever seen, most will fail again, sometimes more severely if done this way.
have truck scanned for trouble code most auto stores such as auto zone/ advanced auto do it for free code gives u start point as to knock which is where code is coming from most knock noise is lower engine problems rod knock-wrist pin -main bearing going
installation is pretty much tighten and plug in as described. if gauge goes to 0 with engine off u should be fine. 15psi idle 40 psi higher rpm is normal. it is possible new switch not as as sensitive as old.
First, nothing you have done has anything to do with valve tappet noise. What is your oil pressure? Have you positively identified the noise as a lifter (tappet), OR COULD IT BE AN ENGINE BERARING OR WRISTPIN? Other than tearing it down and replacing lifters, rockers or pushrods or possibly even the cam, if oil pressure is good, change the oil and put a quart of Marvel oil in there. If that does not clear it up in a few days, you will have to go inside the engine. You likely have over 160k on that engine...consider using a replacement. Get an older tech to listen to it...it takes years to be able to differentiate between different component noises with any accuracy. Personally, without hearing it myself, I'm betting it's a rod knock.