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Its fairly easy to determine if your clutch is hydraulic or cable. Check in the engine compartment against the firewall on the drivers side, and see if there are one or two hydraulic reservoirs side by side. If there are two, the far left one is for the clutch, and you have a hydraulic clutch.
If you have a cable clutch, the cable should be clearly seen by the side of the brake hydraulic reservoir, a rather thick cable running from the firewall to the bell housing area.
There are two possibilities for adjusting - the adjusting nuts are either at the point where the outer part of the cable enters the firewall to connect to the clutch pedal, or where the inner cable connects to the release bearing fork.
To adjust, release the outer nut (there should be two, one is a locknut) and take up the slack by screwing the other nut inward.
Make sure you don't overtighten the cable, this could lead to your clutch slipping and you will need to replace the clutch plate sooner.
A hydraulic clutch is usually not adjustable, so if you have a problem there, take it to a service station.
The clutch hydraulic system is very simple, just 3 pieces. There is the clutch master cylinder with attached fluid reservoir-mounted on the firewall, there is a steel line from the master going down to the transaxle bell housing, and there is the clutch slave cylinder on the bell housing that the steel line connects to.
If yours is leaking under the car, it is probably the slave cylinder, either that or the steel line. Either one should be easy to replace.
You have to purchase or make a tool to hold the pully stationary as you unscrew the fan from the water pump shaft. I bought a strap of steel 1/8" thick and 1 1/2" wide and 24" long at the hardware store. I then drilled two holes in it close to one end, and close to one side of the strap. The hole diameter is just big enough to fit over the heads of the 10 mm bolts that hold the pulley in place. Note that the bolts are in a rectangular pattern. It is best to space your holes to fit two bolts that are the long side of the rectangle. Then I had to grind a half-moon shape into the side of the strap between the holes to allow for the shaft so the tool would get close enough for my little holes to fit over the bolt heads. If this is unclear, you should be able fine a picture of the tool on an automotive tool website.
Then I use a crescent wrench with extra narrow jaws to turn the nut on the fan clutch that screws onto the water pump shaft. This is a lot easier if you remove the air filter box so you can get to that nut easily.
Most important - that nut that holds the fan clutch on the water pump shaft is LEFT HANDED THREAD. Turn it clockwise to unscrew it.
You will need a 1 - 7/16 inch open end wrench to loosen the big nut between the clutch and pulley. Since you have the whole thing off the engine, it will be difficult to get enough leverage. But it will require you to hit the wrench with a large hammer to spin the nut in a clockwise direction, it will require several heavy hits.
You didn't state the miles but I think either your clutch is gone or out of adjustment, if it is a manual non - hydraulic system.If you have a hydraulic clutch system, you may have a bad master or slave cylinder. Adjusting a manual clutch usually is not too bad but changing a clutch is a major job. Taking it to a mechanic should be your next step if you have less than medium mechanical skill. You can call your local auto parts store to see if you have a hydraulic system or not - if not, follow the clutch cable through the firewall and into the engine compartment, to the transmission. The cable will go through a metal bracket with 1 or 2 nuts on the cable housing - usually 2, with 1 nut on each side of the fork the housing passes through. Loosen the side away from the tranny enough to turn the other nut at least 10 turns, moving the housing end away from the tranny as you adjust. Re - tighten nuts and try the clutch. Repeat procedure until your clutch engages when you have released about 1/4 the distance traveled by the pedal. If you cannot restore clutch operation, then your clutch needs replacing and your flywheel needs to be resurfaced - a difficult job, to say the least. Good luck!!
Just leave the belts on the engine and use a open end wrench,I think a 10 mm,might be a 8 mm,and use another wrench to hold one of the nuts,and loosen all the nuts,then remove them by hand.Of course the fan shroud needs to be removed at the same time you lift the fan and fan clutch up,and out of the vehicle.Then just unbolt the fan from the fan clutch,install in reverse order.If this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.
The 1991 model was not hydraulic. There is a cable extending from the clutch pedal to the bell housing on the passenger side of the engine compartment. There is a plastic adjusting nut where the cable enters the bell housing. Turning the nut to the right tightens the cable and reduces the amount of travel required to disengage the clutch.