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replace the fuse for one exactly like the one you take out. If it continues to blow fuses then you have a short in the system and need to diagnose the wiring problem. fuses are circuit protection devices and it is important that you do not substitute for larger Amp fuse to circumvent the real issue and cause larger more expensive issues.
It could be the air temperature control actuator motor drive that makes this noise, have the dealer check it. It requires the dash to be removed to replace it and the door it moves, which is most likely sticking.
Checking codes is an Industry standard description for checking the PCM (engine computer) for DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes). Retrieving codes from the PCM is not hard to do at all, but a code reader or scanner is required to do so. The hard part in diagnosing the trouble code is finding the exact cause, and depending on the cause, it can be expensive or possible a simple fix.
There are two possible causes - both of which happened to me. First, the fluid that is in the transfer case from the factory is not adequate and the transfer case will bind causing the differential action on the front wheels to malfunction. There is a new fluid called something like "Royal Purple" (I don't remember the exact name) that needs to be put in. If you have the dealer do it, the cost is well north of $100. The fluid is expensive (like $15/qt) but it only takes a couple of quarts as I recall and there is a web site that shows how to replace the fluid (it is not terribly difficult for those that know their way around drain plugs, etc).
The other possibility is a mechanical problem in the transfer case itself. It is a very complicated device and on mine a snap ring broke and part of the ring caused and electrical motor inside to short out and burn up. Because GM used too cheap of a snap ring (5 cents instead of the better 10 cent one), it cost me over $1,000 to fix it. Just hope that is not your problem.