Question about 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

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3 liter engine runs but the belts don't turn, took it apart, a key is shot, looks like it comes in from the inside out from a timing gear, the harmonic is egg shaped, need to replace, looking for the best way to replace the key....any ideas.

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  • Marvin
    Marvin May 11, 2010

    U are going to have to replace the crankshaft.



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  • Dodge Master
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If the key you are referring to is the woodruff key in the crankshaft snout, use a small chisel or screwdriver and tap on the front of it lightly. It will then loosen up and can be grabbed with pliers and removed.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009


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Water pump cracked on suv and overheated, stuck head

ENGINE: ok 3.2L but there are 3 V6 engines. 2 in 3.2L size.
6VD1 (SOHC) free running,
6VD1w (DOHC) belt snap should safe here. gears, put wrong IDK.
you didnt de-mesh the 2 cam gears , right?

6VE1(DOHC) 3.5L (not free running) in last DI form. last year.

the pump seized its bearings the iT CRACKED
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I was driving my 1987 cheverolet 2.5L 4 cyl down the highway and it started making a rattleing noise and then just shut off and it wont start back up what do you think it could be? the timing chain? or...

Has to be something else. That engine has neither a chain nor a belt for timing.The camshaft is located near the crankshaft. It has a gear on the end that meshes with a larger gear on the crankshaft.
When you try starting it, what kind of noise does it make? Any more rattling? But the sound of the starter-does it make the same noise turning as it used to? Or do you hear a distinctly different note, like a higher pitched (freer running ) whine? I'm wondering about the valve train. Maybe something came apart. I guess I would take off the valve cover and watch the valves and rocker arms as someone cranks it over. You may see a rocker arm that is off or not aligned proper.
If all looks good under the valve cover, and no more rattles of death, you are back to checking for spark and gas in a no-start condition. Good luck, Adam.
I hope you keep it running-I owned an 87 celebrity 'bout 10 years ago. That car made it to over 400,000 miles, honest. It took 2 engines to make it, but what a great car.

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Curtis: The Acura TL had two different engines in it. Neither used timing chains.
Settings for the timing belts are as follows: this is on the 2.5 liter.
Before you pull it apart, break the front crank pulley bolt loose.
Line up the white mark on the pulley with the pointer on lower cover.
Berfore you pull the crank pulley, break the cam bolt loose.
Recheck the crank pulley marks with pointer. Remove the obvious to gain access to the timing covers.
NOTE, if you look at the cam gear will have the word "up" should be on the up side. There should be notches cut on opposite sides of the gear which should line up perfectly with the timing cover... You should have a timing belt tensioner still in place before, when you do your initial check.
After you remove the crank pulley and the timing cover, the woodruff key should be at 12:00 PM
You will also see if you look closer, at the gear. a punch mark, above the woodruff kny. There is an arroe cast into the block. This assures you that you have maintained alignment.

On the 3.2 V-6 same scenario. Remove all the **** surrounding your access to the timing covers and belt. After getting the front crank bolt loose, realign the timing marks to bring it to TDC (Woodruff key @ 12:00 PM) In changing the timing belt on this engine, remove the belt tensioner and you should be able to install the belt without removing the gears.
The right (passengers side) cam gear has a notch cut in the outside edge of the gear. There should be an alignment mark just behind it if you have it set fairly close.The drivers side should be the same.On both engines, make sure when you install the belt, the drivers side is ligned up perfectly and the belt is tight between the left side of the sprocket and the crank gear. Run the belt over to the other cam, making sure the cam is still ligned up. the belt without the tensioner will be real sloppy. Get a small clamp you can place to hold the belt in place on the right cam until you have the tensioner in place.
In checking on both of these engines, they are not intereference fit motors, in short, they are not prone to bending valves. Good luck.

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Also check that it is tentioned sometimes it may seem as if all is well but when you apply some pressure to the belt you may find it has broken.

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Timing belt

You obviously need to replace your TPS, and you may need a new belt tensioner as well. On these cars the timing belt setup is not about no 1 cylinder being top dead center. Here are the proper steps to do a timing belt on this vehicle:

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To position the new belt, the cam gear has a arrow on it, and the cylinder head has a small dot. Align the arrow with dot, and make sure it is aligned (the arrow must point up). The crank gear has a notch and the engine has a groove to align the notch. Again, make sure the notch and groove are aligned (they again will be up). Place the new timing belt in position around the crank gear, the water pump and belt tensioner and leave the slack at the top. Again relieve any tension from the belt tensioner, and slide the belt on to the cam gear. Place a slight bit of tension on the belt and tighten the belt tensioner. Use the 19mm bolt from the harmonic balancer and turn the engine 2 complete turns and verify that the cam gear and crank gear are in their proper positions and aligned with the dots and notches. After 2 complete turns of the engine, and verifying everything is still aligned, re-assemble in reverse. No further adjustment is necessary.

Note:There is no timing adjustment for this vehicle, and if you are not properly aligned on the cam gear and crank gear it will not run properly.

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