My probe was working fine until it died at an intersection. I pulled away when the light turned green and the car suddenly died and the gas pedal went to the ground. We towed it home and began looking at everything. The engine turns over but won't start. We checked the timing belt, the fuel pump relay, and the inertia switch, and all are fine. We are thinking the fuel pump might need to be replaced but don't know if this is correct or how to do it. Is this the next likely option? How do we do this?
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If the motor gets hot and cuts off and will not start for a period of time the problem would be the crank sensor. The sudden cut off and starting right back up can be due to dirty battery cable connections. Remove them from battery and clean all three of them with a wire brush and replace both bolts.
Does your car run? Some fuel pumps run quiet so you will need to get your ear close to the gas tank and have someone turn on the ignition. The pumps only run about 3 seconds when the ignition is turn on without starting the engine.
Hello , I am a locksmith in Az. The Ford, Chevy& Dodge igns up until 2004 all had this problem. You will need a new updated "side-bar free" ignition to cure that problem. If you decied to splice wires , yes it will work, but you will need to be extra EXTRA CAUTIOUS IN RE-ATTACHING WIRES AND MAKE SURE THAT WIRES ARE IDENTICAL IN COLORS. (not yelling) just making sure you understand the importance of this procedure.
your crankshaft positon sensor is defective. Replace it and the epc will never come back and no more dying out. this happened to me several times and it would just come and go. i replaced it and now the car starts right away and the epc light hasnt returned since
That's actually nothing to worry about. It's actually a butterly valve in your intake. I have a 96 gt, and used to have a 93 gt. My buddy had a 95 gt, and all of those cars had the same sound. It's loud and annoying, I know, but there is no way around it. What you can do to prove that is the problem (which I'm sure it is), is look at your intake plenum. Look at where your throttle cable meets your throttlebody. There is a little arm attached to a solonoid (air actuated) that is close to the firewall, and toward the passanger side on the throttlebody. The lever rests on a little metal nipple that sticks out of the cast. you can move it back and fourth. Run your car, and lift that lever just a tiny bit until you hear the noise go away. What I did was put a tiny bit of solder on the nipple where the arm rests to keep it up that tiny bit so the noise would'nt be there anymore.
If that doesn't solve it, then you may have a bad valve.
You may have a bad alternator causing the entire vehicle to run off of the battery and not recharging it. Simple test, have it running and momentarily disconnect the battery cable, ither positive or negitive, and if the car dies as soon as you lift the cable, it's not charging. remove your alternator, and visit a local advance auto or autozone with it, and they can test it for free. Also check your fuses and fusable links, as one of them may have been blown.
You are probably having ATF bubbles flowing through your tranny either from overfill or by using cheap ATF / the wrong atf. Consider a drain and refill 3 times (driving for 5 minutes in between a drain and refill. This time only use dealship ATF and I guarantee you the problem will go away.