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Re: How do I remove the screws from the front rotors of...
You can tap the end of the screws with a hammer and it sometimes will break free or use torch propane type to heat them up and it will do the same. You need to buy an impact screw driver to remove them most of the time cost about $10.00 plus the 3/8 drive bit you need to fit and if you end drilling out the head just be sure to drill to the outside diameter of the head once you have drilled threw it you would be able to remove the head, also if you can get to the part where the bolt is threaded into tap it with a hammer a couple of times and that may do the trick.
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I am unsure if it is the same as the model that we have here,but there are a standard set of procedures that apply to removing any brake rotor. 1.With the vehicle jacked up and sitting safely on a stand to avoid falling on you,and the road wheel off. 2.Remove the brake caliper and the assembly that holds this to the hub/suspension assembly.Hang this on a wire or hook to avoid damaging the brake hose with the weight. 3.the rotor will either be a 'floating' type and can be pulled off by hand(sometimes you may have to break the seal of rust on the hub center by striking the rotor face with a soft faced hammer or rubber mallet).Or it may be fixed to the hub with a couple of screws or bolts.The screws are best loosened with a shock tool as they are usually tight and may also be partially seized in threads. I hope that this helps you,otherwise get back to me with your findings and will endeavour to get correct instructions to you.
the 2 screws have to come off to remove rotor. if rotor sticks on hub. hit with a rubber hammer or another soft object.
But, there may be 2 small set screws in the front of the rotor between the lug studs that need to be removed to get the rotor to slide off of the hub
Look on the face of the rotor. Not the part the pads contact. Between the lug nuts. Many rotors have 2 phillips head screws holding them in place. If there are no screws then it is probably rusted in place and will need to be smacked with a hammer until it pops off. If you are replacing the rotor then don't be shy beat the hell out of it. It is not uncommon at all to have to shatter the rotor to get it to come off if it is really rusted in there good. I have seen it take a professional mechanic with a 3lb. sledge hammer near an hour or more to get 1 rotor off when the rust is really bad.
remove the wheel, remove the caliper and caliper bracket (there is no caliper bracket if it is a floating caliper) and the rotors should slide right off, if not smack em with a soft faced hammer om the braking surface and they should pop off
your rotors are only held on by your brake calipar and wheel when its on..they get rusted on remove wheel break calipar and the rotor should come off use a rubber mallet and beat on rear side and itll pop off.
I had the same problem with the fronts on my 2003 expedition. Assuming you took all the bolts/clips off that could be holding it then I think you have a rusted on problem that even wd40 wont help. Here is a link on how I removed my fronts 5 years ago when the truck was only a year old and the rotors were deeply scarred with the pads that ford first used back then that made the wheels get dirty from brake dust, look for orlandoguy in the postings. basically you use a circular saw with a metal cutting blade to put a weak spot the on the rotor by cutting a slot in the rotor and use a cold chisel and small 5 lb hammer to split it after, Once you crack the rotor you break the rust bond on the hub and it slides off. I wirebrushed the hubs after and used wheel bearing grease to put a thin film on that mating surface to make the next rotor replacement easier.
These screws hold the rotor on while installing brake calipers. They can be left off but not recommended, Soak the screws with penetrating oil for a hour or so and use a impact driver (#3) to remove stubborn screws.
Just completed doing my rotor place a car jack stand or stack 2 blocks on each side of your A frame. Let jack down and place some blocks behind front of and rear of tires left on the ground. To remove your caliper mount look on reverse side of caliper mount for 2 large hex bolts. Lightly spray around them with some liquid wrench (try not to get spray everywhere). Remove bolts with a wrench and probably a hammer or a ratchet and a hammer. Tap lightly on wrench using short strokes. If this doesn't loosen the bolts use some heat (heated wrench technique) small propane kit to heat caliper mount not too hot just enough to heat it up to just above too hot to touch then reapply wrench tapping lightly. You need a C-Clamp to push the caliper in. After caliper is in remove c-clamp from caliper. If the caliper wont go in you have to replace it. Remove rotor cap with a flat head screw driver and hammer tapping around the edges lightly. Remove the pin out of the bolt behind the rotor cap. Remove nut then remove rotor. Some vehicles will not have a nut and pin system, just a shaft to hold the rotor in place. If the rotor is rusted on tap firmly on inside (back side) of
rotor to break it loose from the rust . Spray rust with liquid wrench let sit for 2 minutes then wipe dry. Use a clean cloth or rag to handle new rotor. Slide new rotor on the shaft and replace nut the pin (if no nut and pin continue to next step. Place caliper over rotor and screw in hex bolts on back side of caliper using a wrench or ratchet tighten 1/2 turn of being tight. Re -attach caliper mount onto caliper. Tighten 1/4 turn past tight. Lift truck with jack replace tire and remove jack stands and or blocks from under A frame let truck down and remove blocks