Question about 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

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Paint removed from vent trim on dash

I have 2009 2500 sivlerado w/ltz trim. A car deoderizer spilled on the center air vent,the one above the radio.....causing the vent trim paint to be removed leaving black plastic. The dash trim is woodgrain,the vent trim a gun metal gray.My question...could the vent trim just be replaced or is it part of the long woodlike trim,along with the pass side vent.Either way I will relace the vent or the whole woodtrim if its one. To Remove? any help or part nums would be appreciated The only damage is to the vent trimThanks Paul

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These vents should snap in. If you look closely at the inside of the vent, there should be either two U shaped cuts on either side with the bottom of the U facing you, or maybey a couple of metal tabs. Either way, you should be able to place a precision screwdiver into the tab and pry it inward on one side then gently pull that side to you. It should rock outwards and come out of the dash if you pull it to the side you took out first. Let me know if this helps :)

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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Early 90's lesabre dash face removal - access radio - replace stereo


OOK... this is a little lengthy process... but after the second or third time it becomes second nature.
What you'll need:
- 7mm nut driver (all of these bolts-screws also have a torx insert in the head, I cannot remember the size however)
- Philips screwdriver
- Ignition keys(aka your car keys)
Optional:
Flat-blade screwdriver

1. You can begin with removing the woodgrain paneling-strips from the dash(this strip is found below the glovebox door and surrounds the heater/vent controls, as well as the trunk release button -on both sides of the steering wheel), either with your fingers or a wide, flat-blade screwdriver and pry the pieces straight out from the sides, or a combination of prying down & out from the top edge. They have these springy clips that will fight you, but, so far for me, have always been forgiving enough to come free of the dash without breaking or cracking the trim, so you shouldnt have much to worry about as far as this step going sour.

2. Dash vents - these all have-to be removed. The removal of all of these uses the same method - turn the vent-thing to it's far left or far right aiming position. Once it comes up against its stops, get one or both hands on the side of it that is sticking out from the dash and pull on it like you are trying to turn it farther in the direction that it currently doesn't want to turn any farther towards(either the left or right). These vents are mounted on a center stud top & bottom, and will pop free from that with a little bit of force. You shouldn't have to worry about breaking these vents when removing them... it's putting them back in that is a little more sensitive. Also, the vents are each shaped a little different, so I suggest that you set each one on the dash above where you removed it from.

3. Behind & above each vent that you just removed is a 7mm headed screw. Remove each of those while trying to not drop the screw down the dash vents as they come loose. After freeing the far passenger side vent the next chunk that you'll want to unscrew and remove is the glove box.... yes, the whole glove box needs to come out for this. There should be two 7mm headed screws(maybe 3 - cant remember off the top of my head) behind the door of the glove box and probably another two below the glovebox door behind where the woodgrain trim strip was.
Oh yeah, the screws that hold the glove box in place are located on the close face behind the glovebox door, you won't need to be digging behind all the stuff in your glovebox attempting to find screws, it can all just stay in place. As well, the glovebox door itself does not need to have any screws removed from it or the hinges that hold it.
The glove box should remove quite easily if all the screws are removed

3b - or something like that - So, assuming you've removed the screws that were up & behind all of the dash vents, the next step is to remove the screws that were hidden behind the trim strips(woodgrain). These are still 7mm screws, and most of them are recessed back in parts of the plastic... you may have to get down to eye level with that area to see them all. Remove all of those and the dash pieces should flop around a little bit.
- Now For The Only Two Philips Screws... they are found above the gauge cluster(speedometer & fuel level things), and will likely require you to get low and look up to even spot them. I'll let you know before-hand that the steering wheel, shifter and steering column are going to really get in the way... perhaps you'll want a stubby philips screwdriver or a really long shafted philips driver. A regular length one will work, but will land your hands right in the middle of all the steering junk making it *extra fun*.

OK, quick review.
Lower trim panel(woodgrain perhaps) strips removed from both sides of the dash.
Screws behind the trim panel removed.
Dash Vents removed.
Screws behind the dash vents removed.
Screws behind the glove box door removed.
Glove box removed.
Two Philips screws removed from above the gauge cluster

----
Those are all the things I can remember when it comes to getting to this point.

4. REMOVING THE DASH - why did they have to make it this difficult to get to the friggen radio.
You'll hafta get your keys and put them in as though you're going to start your car... only you don't need to start the car, just turn the keys enough to allow the shifter to move(I think you hafta press on the brake to get it out of park anyways), and you will pull the shifter down all the way(1st / low gear). Now the dash piece should be able to come out with some fancy maneuvering.
TADA!

As far as reassembly, most of that is pretty easily done... the only exception is the dash vents. When you put them in, start with them facing off at an angle and then try to face them to their center(flat across, pointing straight out) and press on the upper and lower portions close to their vertical center line. You should listen for a pop, which is hopefully them snapping into place. To check for proper re-placement, swivel them left and right and see if they look & feel 'normal'. If not, try again with more force. The only risk you run here is breaking the plastic tabs on the vents that hold them to the studs in the dash panel.

on Jan 09, 2010 | Buick LeSabre Cars & Trucks

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I have a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox LTZ and my question involves the heating/ AC unit. The air flow seems to be very strong through the Defroster but for the dash vents and the floor it seems to be much s


Defrost has been stronger on all types. Just the way plenums are made. Clear that wind shield first. As long as you have plenty of heat to keep the cabin area warm to hot, it's OK. I wouldn't woory about it.

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How do I remove the fan switch to replace it on the dash under the radio?


Have your radio code before you pull it out with the right radio tool. This pull would involve removing this parts.
  1. Glove compartment
  2. Driver side panel
  3. Center top dash board
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  6. Center lower half of dash
So I'd suggest go to your local public library and look for your car manual. It would be either Chiltons or Clymers manual, it's not as precise a Bentley VW Official factory repair manual. Yes it really involves taking all those parts out just to get to the rotary switch.

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How do u get the wood part around the cd player off in a 2000 diamante


1. Put on the emergency brake and put the transmission in neutral (key must be on, brake must be pressed). Having the shift lever in neutral allows the console to clear it.

2. Remove the front cupholder by pulling it up and out. Set it aside in safe place so you won’t accidentally scratch or break it while continuing your job.

3. Clean out the coin compartment and leave the door open.

4. The console trim pieces are held in place with metal clips. Reach through the opening at the rear of the coin compartment and pull up on the lower console trim until it unsnaps. Continue to unsnap the lower console trim, rear to front. It hooks into the ashtray, so don't try to pull it up from there. Once you have unsnapped the trim from the console, it will pull back and out from the ashtray. Lift the lower console trim up and disconnect any wiring connectors, then remove it up and over the shift lever. Set it aside in a safe place.

5. Put the car back into park for now (key on, press brake, shift, then remove the key).

6. Reach under the bottom of the whole ashtray unit (not just the ashtray) and pull it back towards the rear of the car until it unsnaps, but don’t completely remove it yet. Remove the wiring connector from the ashtray and set the ashtray aside in a safe place.

7. Next, you are going to remove the center vent unit just above the AC controls. If your model has a thumbwheel on the left side of the vent unit, you must first unhook the cable. Use a light to look under the dash from the driver's side, find the end of the cable, unclip it and unhook it from the peg. If you have a problem identifying the cable, move the thumbwheel up and down while looking under the dash and you can see the cable end moving. Remember how it was installed so you can reconnect it later.

8. Now comes the hard part. Work your fingers into the area of the center vents just below the digital clock lens. Unsnap the vent unit by pulling it out towards the rear of the car. It may take some pulling, so be careful. Once the center vent unit unsnaps, remove it from the dash and set it aside in a safe place.

9. You now can see the upper and lower mounting screws for the center unit. Remove the screws, being careful not to drop the screws inside of the dash.

10. Carefully pull the center unit out a bit from the dash. You will have to disconnect all the wiring and a tube before you fully remove it.

11. Disconnect the wiring from emergency flasher, and pull the AC temperature sensor breather tube off.

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