a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. There is a remote negative connection at the left strut tower with an insulator grommet. Place this grommet on the stud to prevent the negative cable from accidentally grounding.
Remove the following: the bolt attaching the air inlet resonator to the intake manifold. Loosen the clamps holding the air cleaner cover to the air cleaner housing. Remove the PCV air hose from the air inlet tube. Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body.
Remove the air cleaner cover, resonator, and inlet tube. Remove the EGR tube.
Mark for identification and remove the spark plug wires from the distributor cap.
Remove the distributor cap-there are two hold down screws. Mark the rotor position relative to the distributor body. Then remove the rotor.
Unfasten the two electrical connections from the distributor.
Remove the two distributor hold-down nuts and washers. If necessary, remove the spark plug cable mounting bracket.
Remove the transaxle dipstick tube. Then remove the distributor from the engine.
To install: Inspect the distributor's O-ring seal and replace if necessary Carefully engage the distributor drive with the slotted end of the camshaft. Verify rotor alignment with the previously made mark. Reinstall the hold-down nuts and washers and tighten to 9 ft. lbs. Connect everything back in reverse order.
If timing was disturbed while distributor was out: rotate the crankshaft until the #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. Rotate the rotor to the #1 terminal position on the distributor cap. Put the distributor in place, engaging the distributor drive with the drive on the camshaft. With distributor seated, the rotor should be on the #1 terminal. Reinstall the hold-down nuts and washers.
Well, that's all! So much stuff is in the way, it makes it difficult. Post back if you need more help. Good luck.
If the distributor cap falls down onto the rotor button then you have the wrong distributor cap and it is too big for your distributor. Run fault codes to check for accelerator position sensor fault and check MAP/MAF sensors.
well, to answer this we must know history, even the FSM states this. its a toy engine so you have all facts online to match that engine. 1: it was wrong all along. timing ? 2: it was ok, time wise and want to just swap it out. ?
ILL shoot for the moon here, go easy way, #2 mark all wires. 1,2,3,4 (1 is water pump side, 4 is tranny side.0 mark cap terms too. now transfer marks from old cap diz to new. now remove cap on old put crank at TDC such that #1 cap tower is at #1 wire. this is called TDC #1 firing. (crank pulley marks are as FSM shows then remove dizzy. drop in new dizzy such that rotor still aligns with #1 cap tower term marked above. clamp down dizzy now do fine timing set running per FSM.
all this is at alldata.com and for if #1 is true, all wrong to start.
the above works for all dizzy cars made, mostly.
all this and more here. vast info, all free too. http://w ww.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/9068-geo-prizm-toyota-corolla.html
remove the air cleaner and mark where the plug wires are on the distributor cap. if you get lost the firing order on the v8 is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 remove the distributor cap. unplug the distributor and using a white grease marker mark where the tab on the rotor is pointing. i usually make sure its where i can mark the intake so i can line it up later. go to the parts store and either rent or buy a distributor tool to remove the bolt holding the lock down clip at the base of the distributor. dont let it fall Murphy law says it will fall where you cant get a hold of it lol. after removing the lock down clip the get a hold of the distributor and wiggle it back and forth while pulling up on it it should slide out. when you reinstall it make sure you line it up with tab and your mark. as you put it down in it slides into the tooth of the cam and will rotate as you slide it in so you have to be one tooth before your mark and it should slide into the mark. make sure you use the new gasket with the new one and dont over tighten the lock down bolt. good luck
On the 2.0L motor, pop off the 2 clips on the distributor, holding the cap on, move the cap out of the way. Pull the rotor off the shaft. And press on the new one. Then remove the center coil wire from old cap, line up new cap to old cap, and transfer 1 wire at time to the new cap. There is a notch where the cap fits to the distributor housing, make sure you have the new cap, exactly like the old one, both notches at 3 o'clock, for insistance. Reinstall the cap with the notch mating the distributor housing slot, and snap on the clips.
If you're talking about the distributor cap and rotor. I dont know what size engine you have, but it's pretty much the same. Mark your wires with a piece of tape and write a number on each one. When you remove the wire from the cap, ONE AT A TIME, mark that location on the OLD cap with the same number. (you can remove them and immediately put them on the new cap IN THE SAME LOCATION, but it can get in the way) After all the wires are off, take the two screws out of the base of the cap and lift up on it.
Now...Take the two caps and place them next to each other, and mark the new cap exactly as you did the old cap.
Leave them there for a minute. Go back and take the 2 screws out of the rotor. Place the new one in place and tighten,first making sure you have it in the right position. Look at the bottom. There should be a square prong, and a round prong. They're there to make sure you don't put it on backwards.
Go back and get the cap from where you left it and put it back on in the same position. Put the wires back on starting with the last one you took off and work your way back to number 1.
Don't be afraid to take a picture of it before you start. Just because.
check all your leads first then the cap,, inside the cap is a small carbon brush if its fell out the center of the cap you wont get a spark, hook a plug up to just the coil lead only and spin the motor up,, holding down the plug on to the engin block,,(get your mate to hold the plug down!!!)
Start by jacking the car up, place on jack stands for safwety, You will see the brake calaper which holds in the shoes, you will see two bolts which holds the brakes together, remove these bolts, then remove the pads. Remopve the bolt and pen holding the rotor on, take the rotor to a brake shop, see if it can be turned instead of having to purchase a new one. When replacing the brake pads you will have to use one of the pads to push the pressure plate back into the calaper to replace the pads. You may want to remove some of the brake fluid so it wont over flow when doing this.
There might be a start washer on one of the wheel studs that hold the rotor in place, If not. A good hit from a hammer will break the rotor free from the wheel hub, chances are there being held on by corrosion. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, be glad to help.
Your emergency break shoes might be holding you up from geeting the hub off there inside the hub, i think on the back side there should be a slot to get a ajustment tool in there to back them off. If not a big hammer is in order there also might be clips on the wheel studs from the factory. No you don't have to remove the axel. Your the best judge of what needs to be replaced your there, but i would say the ovious rotor, caliper, break pads, and maybe emergency break shoes, maybe backing plate.