Question about 1995 Buick Riviera

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Shudders real bad at take off

Just replaced batt. and alt. and when i went to drive it, it revs higher rpms at start, the check eng light keeps blinking and when i put it in drive it shudders badly. doesn t do it in reverse and not as bad in 3rd but real bad in drive

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1988 buick lesabre won't start

they can test your ECM (under the coil pack) at your local parts store

Posted on Jan 23, 2009

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SOURCE: check engine light is blinking and the car idles

oxygen sensor??

Posted on Aug 04, 2009

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SOURCE: My 1991 Buick century problem, well it started

Man what a hard time you have had!
Before you can trouble shoot the possible bearing problem,your engine would need to be able to run.

Your engine will run with a bad alternator for awhile with a fully charged battery. This will allow you to have someone listen to the engine and evaluate the bearing nose.

A bearing rattle when you rev the engine up is usually a rod bearing.
A bearing rattle when you declerate is usually a main bearing.

I hope this has been some help.

It sounds like you might need a mechanic help you make some decisions

Good luck

Posted on Oct 31, 2010

  • 3113 Answers

SOURCE: the car shakes when stopped

Bad coil, fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. Vacuum leak etc.

Posted on Apr 08, 2011

  • 218 Answers

SOURCE: 1983 buick lesabre wagon fan/alt belt squeals when

the pully is problably glazed try putting a little soap on it to see if this works

Posted on Jul 25, 2011

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The car died lights went dim then engine cut out with the key on there is no batt light on the dash. I unpluged the 2 wire conector at the alt and started the car after I charged the batt. still no batt...

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May I can put a nail in this one for you.The problem is your alternator. The proper charge rate is 13.6 to 14.2v Now get this. The higher the voltage, the lower the amps.Voltage @ the 14.2 end is moving the minimum amps. @ 15 v there os no charging happenning. Go to the other end and you'll find at 12v the alternator is puring the coals to the battery Alt @ max output. The difference between 12 and 13 / 14 and 15 is the is like a buffer. If the alt charges @ less than 13v for any length of time, It goes poof because of excessive heat.which is an indicator the battery is possibly ready to go poof also. Alt. function as a source of maintenance charging when deman is low and a compensator when demand goes up. That is why a low cranking amp battery is for lawnmowers and people that like buying batts and alts.Now, solution! Have your battery load tested. Chances are real good that it is not up to par. Hence, overworked alternator. If so, replace it. 650 to 850 cold crank amps rating . (cca ) Then have your alt tested output checked if you you end up with a new batt. If your alt puts oout in the given range, which should be around but not below 13v) After starting, it will charge heavy to make up for the cracking, but should get up around 13.6v within 15 seconds. Alts charge at all speeds, unlike generators of old which needed speed (rpms) to put out power. Alts do all the thinking and have internal regulators. Well anyway, You didn't ask for a course in Automotive electrical just a course of action. Remember, Battery first ten alt. Good luck. Any autozone or checker parts store can do all that checking for you. -Ned-

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No battery charge

if batt.gets drain while driving,charging system is not working!by comment,u knew that!u can check wiring connection at alt.for bad contact,corrosion or damage wiring,check for batt. voltage at big red wire at alt.,but these models are prone to alt. failure,if connections are ok,pull out alt. have it check at part store they do not charge for this,

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