Question about 1996 Honda Accord

2 Answers

96 accord v6 2.7 exhaust monitors wont reset

The o2 sensor. o2 sensor heater, catalyst and egr monitors are not ready

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  • Glenn Kara
    Glenn Kara Apr 02, 2014

    Hi Louie, I totally agree with everything you have said. only problem is I am a 30 yr mechanic although heavy duty. No coded were on the car and no work has been done. The battery has not gone dead and it is charging fine. I have check all fusses with a Power Probe just to make sure. I drove it through every crazy drive cycle I've found through research. nothing is working. We all seem to be on the same page as to the solution. I just don't understand why it happened. I even spoke to 2 different Honda dealers. Both gave different opinions as to the drive cycle. I've done I've 300 miles already. Most of it highway. I'm going to try all local this time for a few hours. I was looking for an accurate schematic to see if there could be a hidden fuse or relay somewhere even though I know that would throw a code as well. As for now I'm stuck just driving around until they get ready. Do you know of any sites that would have accurate schematics? Thanks Glenn

  • Glenn Kara
    Glenn Kara Apr 16, 2014

    Hey Louie, I'm over 630 miles now and nothing has changed. The same monitors are not ready. Do you have any other ideas? The only other thing i can think of now is the ecu is n/g. What do you think?

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Louie ramirez if the monitors are not resetting right away its because something was repaired recently to do with the emissions and a trouble code was erased or cleared to remove the check engine light .now there should be no more check engine light on but you have monitors blinking on your scanner right ,now to turn those monitors off all you have to do is drive the vehicle and monitor with a scanner some cars clear right away and some can take up to 500 miles before the monitors clear ,don't panic its this a typical normal procedure just drive it should clear soon and good luck.
Apr 02, 2014

Posted on Apr 02, 2014

Testimonial: "I've been driving it all different speeds and conditions. 1st about 300 miles. then got frustrated and unplugged everything to see if it would reset the ECU. It didn't. All the same monitors were still ready with the same 3 not ready. Since there were no codes to begin with to make the monitors not be ready I'm starting to think the ECU has a problem. It just doesn't make sense for them to not be ready when there was no codes in the first place. Do you have any other suggestions? I'm up to another 193 miles again and they are still not ready"

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Low voltage can cause these codes check charging rate if ok reset ecm by removing both battery terminals and touch them together for 15 sec. if codes return catylist my be clogged. also as always check for blow fuse in under hood fuse box

Posted on Apr 02, 2014

Testimonial: "I do know low voltage can cause these problems, but I don't have a voltage issue or weak battery. I have never heard of touching the battery terminals together to reset the ecm. How does that work? there would be no voltage obviously in the cables. So how does that reset it?"

  • louie ramirez Apr 02, 2014

    if the monitors are not resetting right away its because something was repaired recently to do with the emissions and a trouble code was erased or cleared to remove the check engine light .now there should be no more check engine light on but you have monitors blinking on your scanner right ,now to turn those monitors off all you have to do is drive the vehicle and monitor with a scanner some cars clear right away and some can take up to 500 miles before the monitors clear ,don't panic its this a typical normal procedure just drive it should clear soon and good luck.

  • Glenn Kara
    Glenn Kara Apr 10, 2014

    I've driven almost 400 miles so far and nothing. It still boggles my mind as to why this is happening in the first place. there were no repairs made and no ck engine light onfor over 3 yrs. The whle thing makes no sense what so ever. I'm starting to think the ecu is bad even though everyone says it should be fine including Honda. Does anyone have any other ideas?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: where is the o2 sensor located on a 1991 honda accord ex 2.2 engine

Further clarification on the O2 sensor location: It is in the exhaust pipe, under the center of the car, on top of the pipe, just aft of the oil filter.

Posted on Jul 14, 2008

SOURCE: O2 sensors

There are 2 O2 sensors on your Honda. Mine failed it's inspection due to the emmisions. One of them is on the exhaust manifold the other is just below. I purchased mine at Autozone. You could get them anywhere similar. It runs from 50-85 bucks each. Kinda expensive yes, but very simple to due.
You only need a couple of adjustable wrenches and some rust remover or bolt loosener, cause those things are gonna be a @#$%^ to get off without stripping them. If that happens your in trouble. Just remove the exhaust manifold cover and you should be able to get the old one of and just put in the new one twist it tight and your set. The one down below is a little more difficult. Depending on wether it is connected to the cat converter or not. Mine wasn't but i drive a civic. If its not connected than you can replace it the same way you did the top one. If it is connected to the cat then you need to get someone with specialty tools. And remove that piece of the exhaust then install.

Posted on Aug 21, 2008

  • 14036 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 honda accord check engine light on code p0141

SECONDARY HEATED O2 SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT FAULT SENSOR 2.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 356 Answers

SOURCE: 94 accord ex. rough idle. wants to stall.

If it was running fine prior to putting the new exhaust on, then there is either a restriction in the exhaust causing too much back pressure or something didn't get hooked back up.

good luck

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

freelander72
  • 124 Answers

SOURCE: are there two O2 on a 93 honda accord, if so give

there is only one 02 sensor w/c is by the exhaust manifold.check your sparkpugs and wires.

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

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1 Answer

Hello again. I have the 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5S ......ok I had the issue bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit low P0037 is the code I was getting. But when I connect the code reader it says that the heated 02...


O2 Emission Monitors & Evap Monitor-- are two
different systems

Get ALL your OBD Codes & work them one at a time,
& DO NOT Clear any data with code reader or removing
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The heater may work in the sensor, but the sensor doesn't
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The Evap Codes will be needed, to work on that issue
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No no it wasn't because of the O2 sensor that it didn't pass it was a couple of things that came up and the we're Catalyst not ready Monitor Evap not ready Monitor O2 not readyz


You have 8 I/M or Emission Monitors that have to run clear
BEFORE you can go to inspection

Your Catalyst Efficiency comes from the switching comparison
of the front & rear oxygen sensors being out of range

Until you resolve the rear O2 Sensor Heater Issue you won't
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Apr 30, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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The code was p0160 what does it mean.


This code is for a post-catalyst oxygen sensor that isn't operating properly or not at all. The catalyst, or catalytic converter is used to control emissions. This particular o2 sensor on Bank 2, position 2 is after the converter on bank 2 and monitors the catalyst efficiency of the catalytic converter on that bank. The P.C.M (Power train Control Module) compares the post-cat o2 sensor to the pre-cat o2 sensors to measure the cat's efficiency. The o2 sensor is a four wire sensor. The P.C.M supplies a reference voltage to the sensor of about half a volt and also supplies a sensor ground. 12 volts are supplied for the heater element and also a ground for the heater element (the heater in the sensor helps the sensor to warm up faster which allows the engine to reach closed loop sooner). The sensor varies the reference voltage the P.C.M gives it based on oxygen content of the exhaust. The change in oxygen content causes resistance changes in the sensor which affects the 0.5 volt reference voltage. Oxygen sensors are capable of varying the supplied voltage between 0.1 volts to 0.9 volts. Lean exhaust produces low voltage and causes the supplied 0.5 volts to drop. Rich exhaust produces high voltage and causes the supplied 0.5 voltage to increase. Pre-catalyst (front) o2 sensors switch between low and high voltage rapidly one or two times per second. However this sensor is a post-cat o2 sensor and may switch much slower & not vary as much (this is normal). If the sensor "sticks" or there are too few switches in a given time period, P0160 may set.

May 22, 2013 | 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

02 sensor not ready,catalyst not ready


The catalyst is able to oxidize hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) at about 600 degrees. The air injection pump routes fresh air straight to thecat to aid in speeding up the light off time. once there, the cat stays warm enough to oxidize at all times. The oxygen sensors have heater circuits built in (4 wire vs. the earlier 2 wire O2 sensors, this is why they're referred to as HO2S; Heated O2 Sensors) As for the term "Not Ready" this applies to one of the monitors run by the PCM the Emissions Monitor. EGR flow, O2 sensor operation, catalyst temp are all monitored by the PCM so it can decide whether it will run in Open Loop (ignoring O2 sensor inputs) or Closed Loop (adjusting fuel trim by reading the O2 Sensor input) To change a monitor status from "Not Ready" to "Ready" is as simple as driving as per TRIP guidelines. Once a TRIP is completed (a TRIP is an acronym don't remember what it is right now, but a TRIP is different than a drive cycle) then monitors will have completed and be "ready" unless there is a problem in which a DTC will be stored along with freeze frame data (Mode 6) and if enough key cycles for the individual code (Some are instantaneous, some are 3 key cycles, some are 5, and some are successive key cycles), then a MIL or Check Engine Light will turn on as well.
Hope this helps

Mar 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need the correct number and or location for the PCM fuses and the heated O2 sensors,EGR Vaccum regulator, EVR solenoid, camshaft positionsensor fuses on a2003 focus in the interior and exterior fuse b


To start with, if the check engine light is not on, you probably don't need to check any of the components.
The engine and systems have to get up to operating temp and go thru the closed loop program a few times before the exhaust can be checked.
The printout you have says the engine and exhaust have not been hot enough yet.
The correct process to make the components ready to test is - drive at 55 mph for at least 12 min with no stops or variance in speed. Then 0-35 mph at least 4 times, and make sure you make complete stops each time. This should run the emissions system thru a complete drive cycle.
Some state testing is different so check with your state.

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I know its hot in Nevada now so thats just a suggestion.
The O2 sensors have heaters to make the exhaust gas hot quick so that the sensors can work.
Is the check engine light coming on - or is it just that the exhaust gas is not hot enough for the test equipment ?

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Monitor Reset


The following conditions must occur to complete a Trip and test all OBD II monitors and components including the Catalyst Efficiency Monitor:
-- The misfire, comprehensive component, and adaptive fuel monitors are checked continuously from engine warm-up and can complete any time.
-- The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) monitor test requires a series of idles and accelerations.
-- The heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) monitor requires a steady speed drive for approximately 1 minute at 30 to 40 mph.
-- The catalyst efficiency monitor requires a steady speed drive for 1 minute and 20 seconds beyond the HO2S monitor test at 40 to 65 mph.
If you cut engine off before test are completed then you must wait for a 6 hour cool down before monitors will run again.

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