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Cannot answer that question. It likely relates to torquing a bolt. It implies that the bolt (or stud) is allowed to stretch a fixed amount during torquing tight. The process involves torquing the bolt to a specific torque (measured in foot-pounds or inch pounds) then turning the bolt an additinal 90 degrees to stretch the bolt a specific amount. The bolt is a one-time use bolt (as are some cylinder head bolts, for example.) once the bolt has been streteched in this manner, it can not be used again if removed.
Head gasket is not sealing water jacket. Coolant is seeping into the push rod hole down to the lifter. Somthing went wrong with the gasket when setting head onto block. Did you ding the gasket?.OR it's possible you got the wrong gasket. You might just get lucky if you try torquing the head bolts again. Or is it possible one of the bolts did not get torqued? One last thought, any chance the head was warped and you did not get it machined? Either way, if re torquing the head bolts does not fix it, you will have to pull the head, look real close at the gasket, probably will need to get a new gasket, check the head for trueness (flat mating surface),use a quality gasket sealer on both side of it, replace all... Yea, simple right? [Not.] Good luck with it.
Tighten the cylinder head bolts. Tighten the cylinder head bolts is sequence to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft. lbs.). Use a beam-type torque wrench. When using a preset type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it. Make sure the threads are clean, new heads bolts are best.
The head torquing sequence for any cylinder head is as below, continue the pattern if there are more than 10 bolts:-
10 6 1 3 7
8 4 2 5 9
Start at the middle two bolts and do your sequence at least three times, first at about half the torque, then the full torque value at least twice. It is good practice to re torque the head again after about 1000 km (600 miles), but this is often disregarded due to the problems of getting to the head bolts.
With the newer engines, you first torque to a specific torque in ft-lbs. Then, you have to use a tool called a Torque angle indicator, which you use with your torque wrench or ratchet, in order to turn the bolt a specific number of degrees after that to the final torque. This measurement is used with "stretch" bolts, which are a more precise method of torquing, and will also retain the torque during heating and cooling cycles, especially with aluminum heads and an iron block. I don't know which engine you have, but the 4.3 still uses the old method of torquing. Hope this answers your question.
Cylinder head torque
Bolts 1-8 40 lb ft.
Bolts 9-10 30 lb ft
Tighten all bolts an additional 90 degrees.
Note this info cam from Mitchel
These bolts are torque to yield meaning they must be replaced after torquing once. In other words the are single use bolts. DO NOT reuse them!
Hope this helps