Engine starts cut off

SOURCE: What do u mean by

I had the exact same problem described here. Here's the full details:

I was driving home from work when the car just died on the freeway. I'm about 90% convinced that when it did, the green key light in the dash flashed 3 times, just like when you remove the key from the car. Restarting the car on the freeway worked fine. When I got home and shifted into park, the car died again. When I tried to restart, it started up just fine, but died within about 1 second. I tried this several times. I went in the house to get organized, then came back out to troubleshoot. I had it in my mind that it might be related to the key, given the key light flashing. I fiddled with the key and noticed the dashboard light flickering. I continued playing with the key, and pretty soon couldn't reproduce the problem.

Thinking that the problem was "fixed" by my fiddling with the key, I took the car out again. About 15 minutes into my trip, going 65MPH on the freeway, the car freaked out. A few dash lights came on (I think including the key light) and the gauges (speed/RPMs) went full for an instant. ...then, the car recovered. I pulled over. When I tried to start the car, I again got the symptom where it would die after about 1 second. Finally, I was able to start the car and went home.

I took the car to a local mechanic who specializes in Honda. He couldn't find anything wrong and couldn't reproduce the problem. Did the same with the local Honda dealership. Same thing. Both were very nice and didn't charge me for this and said to come back when the problem was happening more often. That scared me, since having a car die on the freeway is very dangerous!

I did my research and found this (and similar) stories. ...even though my records indicate that the recall was fixed in my car years ago during a routine maintenance, I was convinced that I was experiencing the problem now (with 115K miles on my 1999 Honda Accord). I took it into the dealer and insisted that they replace the part, even though they couldn't diagnose anything. They did, charging me $166.31. I also asked them to look at signs of failure in the old part.

When I picked up the car, the dealership gave me the old part, and pointed to some melted solder on it, indicating that in the past it probably got really hot. He thought I might have been right that this was the failing part. I took the part home and opened it up. On the inside, I see burnt plastic under the melted solder. Clearly the part had been sparking, which heated it up and melted the solder. I'll try to attach pictures.

I'm not sure why my part is failing, but best guesses are that one of these three things happened:

1. The part was never replaced, even though it says so on my record. This could have been because the dealer / mechanic was lazy, or it could have been an honest mistake.

2. The part was replaced, but was replaced with the wrong part. The dealer might have had a box of old (defective) parts lying around and replaced my part with one of those. Again, this could have been on purpose, or an honest mistake.

3. The new part is also defective.


I'm currently in the process of trying to get Honda to pay for this under the recall 02V120000.

Anyway, hopefully this email will help others.


Hopefully you can see from this picture, but the solder on the upper-left joint is all wrong as if it's been melted...



Here's the inside of the switch. Note the blacked plastic. This isn't black grease--it's actually burned plastic!


-Doug

SOURCE: Volvo S60 2003,Ignition lock cannot turn beyond position one

turn the key around and insert it ,when you turn it should work

SOURCE: volvo s60 idle sensor

if you could get your hands on a scanner to read some live data it would help your plight,there is a cam position sensor when you take of the the plastic head cover at the timing belt end,did you check plugs,it also might help to clean the maf with some contact spray,sounds like plugs

SOURCE: 2001 Volvo S60 2.4 won't start

try to start your car with the valet key instead of master should start right up problem is master key.

SOURCE: Volvo S60 sensor ?

Sounds like an oxygen sensor (there are two). I had a recent problem where I had a rough idle and my S60 continued to stall out. Turned out to be the rear oxygen sensor. After replacement, car idles nicely and car drives normally.