Question about Ford Fiesta
Check engine mil will not go off
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1) Determine the engine code cause for the Check Engine Light (C.E.L. or CEL)
2) Insert key into ignition
3) turn key to "on" posittion without starting the vehicle
4) VERY VERY quickly turn the key off one click, then on, then off, then on; cycling for 3 turns of the key (NOTE: you might have to try this a couple of times to get it just right)
5) leave on, and read the engine diagnostic code(s) that are output in the mileage counter
6) We got Code P0440 (or P 0440 or P-0440) (variations inserted for search engines)
7) A quick search of the web yielded about 3 or 4 usefull details.
8) Diagnostic code P0440 is the Evaporative Emissions Control System Malfunction (failure) of some type. Details of this type of failure and what the Evap System does for you:
9) Other web pages indicated it might be as simple as the Gas Cap being seated incorrectly, or not sealing correctly any more
10) I took it off, yes it was seated incorrectly, and reseatted it firmly
11) Now you need to clear the Check Engine Light indicator (it will clear *eventually* over time if this is TRULY the problem - I recommend you clear it now - that way is a deeper problem with the EVAP system exists, it should come on again - giving another clue something else is amiss
12) One suggestion was to take the Negative (black) cable off the battery for 10 to 20 seconds -- I did - for 30 seconds to be sure
13) You *must* turn the Engine on and start the vehicle all the way before the Check Engine Light might clear - if it doesn't try the following:
14) Turn the ignition on 50 times - yes - 50 times - but be careful, every time you cycle the ignition on (without starting the vehicle) you are turning on the Fuel Pump - continuous cycling can theoretically (according to some posts) cause it to heat up and be damaged - so every 10 times stop and let it rest for a full minute to cool down.
15) After 30 times of doing this (3 sets of 10), turn the engine fully on - see if the check engine light goes off) if it doesn't, do the remaining 20 times (2 sets of 10).
16) if it still doesn't go off, you may have a deeper issue that might require attention of the mechanics
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
The first two were not listed in the file that I have, the third has to do with evaporative emission control has a small leak. The first two seem to be other codes having to do with the same area. Check the hoses and fittings at the fuel tank area for leaking or damage for the vent system. Check the fuel entry to tank hose and fittings. Locate (underneath the body) and check the charcoal canister for cracked case, loose or damaged fittings. Clear the light with the scanner and see if other codes show up. Are there any obvious problems other than fuel vapor leaks?
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
P0420 is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold - Bank 1
P0456 is EVAP Control System Very Small Leak (Negative Pressure Check)
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
SOURCE: CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON
P0456,and P0441 are the Evap Possible problems
A code P0128 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Hope this helps
Posted on May 29, 2011
SOURCE: check engine light on codes
P0442 and P0456 are both evaporative emission error codes due to a small leak. The most common cause is a leaking gas cap or hose leak on that system. I did not list a code for your 0513. I am sending you a little information about your problem.. Best of Luck to you..
2003 Lexus RX300 3.0L 2003 Toyota Sienna 3.0L 2003 Toyota Highlander 3.0L, Eng Cfg V6, Eng Des 1MZFE, USA/Canada 2004 Toyota Avalon XL 3.0L
Check engine light is on with trouble codes P0442 and P0456. The codes are evaporative system small leak codes.
1. Verify that the gas cap is a factory Toyota gas cap and visually inspect that all hoses and lines are tight and connected.
2. Locate the canister closed solenoid and the vacuum switching valve on the canister. Manually ground them and verify that they operate and function. The canister closed solenoid is normally open and should close when grounded. The vacuum switching valve on the canister is normally closed and needs to open when grounded.
3. Verify that the hoses are not loose or pulled off the canister closed valve on the air cleaner housing. This has been a common problem on some models.
4. If no problem is found, the next step is to ground the canister closed solenoid and the vacuum switching valve under the vehicle and simulate an evaporative test and verify that the system holds a vacuum and functions normally. When the solenoids are grounded, back probe the Blue/Black (L/B) wire on the pressure sensor, and with no vacuum or pressure, the voltage should read around 3.3 volts. Start up the vehicle and turn on the purge vacuum switching valve and use engine vacuum to draw down the system to around 2 volts on the pressure sensor. If the voltage does not increase rapidly, there is no problem. If the voltage increases quickly, look for the leak in the evaporative system. Potential Causes: Canister Closed Valve
Disconnected Canister Closed Valve (CCV) Hose
Vacuum Switching Valve - For the pressure sensor.
Posted on Aug 21, 2011
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