Question about Lincoln Navigator
I have a 2006 Lincoln Navigator that hesitates/pulls back when driving. Went to a mechanic and they told me that one of the spark plugs broke when they were looking at it so they needed to replace it and that I should replace all the plugs and coils for like $1800. Told them I would go somewhere else and they charged me $350 for the one spark plug, coil and labor. Car continued to hesitate. Put in fuel injection cleaner and car was running great for a week or so then started hesitating again but not as bad. I was told by someone that I should have the 02 sensors replaced. Brought it down to another local mechanic who said that if the fuel injection cleaner made a difference it couldn't be the 02 sensors and that I would probably need a new catalytic convertor which would cost around $1500. Does any of this make sense? Should I have the 02 sensor replaced first and then see if it is the catalytic converter? Why do I need to be charged for just having someone look at my car to figure out what is wrong?
Why are you charged for someone to look at a vehicle?
Well-- they have decades of knowledge & training & about
$100,000 in tools & test equipment
Just like your doctor charges you $220.00 & the staff does most
of the work before the doctor comes in & no one questions those fees
On that vehicle & that 5.4 V8 motor you had to remove the odd two
piece spark plugs the day you brought it home form a dealer or they
freeze in the head & about 3 break off
There are a couple of tools for removing the plugs
They cost about $70.00 & are on amazon & all tool sites
That job you can do yourself for the price of the tool
Champion makes a one piece spark plug
Lots & lots & lots of info on the internet on that spark plug issue
All was avoidable if the plugs were replaced the first couple months
it was new
On to Oxygen Sensors--The front 2 only get replaced at 100,000
miles on ALL Vehicles
The COP Ignition Coils on a ford only last 6 to 7 years so their
done & most likely have been misfiring for years & RUINED the
ALL you have been told is true, just not explained properly,or why
your not knowing what vehicles require in the way of Preventative
Maintenance actually caused the issues
As they say, you bought it, you drove it, & it is up to you to use the
internet before & during ownership to educate yourself
I've typed enough for now & will say the prices you were given
were just short of fraud & non sense
You can go to Rock Auto.com & look up the spark plugs (champion)
Wells Coils (8) & Walker Pipes & Converter if necessary & your
around $1000.00 in parts --normal wear & tear actually for an 8 year
The 2004 thru 2006 5.4 had injector leaking issues
Most on the 2005 model year those can ruin a converter
IF you PAID a shop once or twice a year to go WITH YOU &
your driving & they take along a scan tool to look at data you
can stay on top of how the motor runs & (again) avoid most
Posted on Apr 01, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1999 Z24 runs rough when warm
Buy a couple bottles of gas line antifreeze.... the coil would have been my first suggestion... but it sounds like you have water in your gas as well.... gas line antifreeze is alcohol (not the kind you drink) it sucks up water tho.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
I would start by doing an oil change myself so you can examine the oil and look for water/antifreeze in it. You will be able to see it separate from the oil and you can smell the antifreeze. If there is then you have a leak between the water jacket and the heads somewhere. More than likely the LOWER intake gasket is leaking into the head. You said they replaced a gasket but was it the UPPER or LOWER? If it was the LOWER did they use RTV in the correct areas? Did they torque the intake bolts to the correct pressure and install the bolts correctly? I know you don't have these answers but these could all be part of the problem. It may be leaking more at #2 cylinder and causing it to foul more than the others. Also just because a mech pressurized the coolant system and didnt see any change in pressure (hopefully he wasn't just looking for visible leaks) the issue may not happen until the engine is hot, as metals behave differently when heated, especially aluminum which the LOWER intake is made. Have a mechanic or mechanically inclined friend (gearhead) remove the #2 plug wire, then kick the engine a few times without starting it, enough to let any fluid get into the chamber, this would include gas btw. Then remove the plug and look for any wet residue on the plug, gas will evap. quickly, antifreeze/oil won't. again try to smell the residue and if necessary, lightly touch some to your tongue, antifreeze has a sugary sweet taste that is easily detectable. Remember any time you are working with chemicals such as waste oil and especially anti freeze, minimize spills and clean them up quickly and completely and place the spent fluid in a sealable container and take them to a collection center for disposal. Waste oil is a carcinagin (cancer causing) agent and antifreeze (glycol) new or old will kill any animal (child, dog, cat,etc) that ingests it. Many auto parts stores and some other retailers that sell oil and antifreeze will take your wastes if you bought the replacement fluid from them, check before you buy.
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
do you have any check engine lights on? If you do, that is the first thing I would have checked. It does sound like plugged EGR, vacuum leak, or bad TPS
Posted on May 15, 2009
if after setting for a while will it re-start if so look at fuel pressure regulator chevrolet does not recomend but these are adjustable and will fix problem find good drivability person with gm background can fix you make some calls
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
make sure that the plugs you changed were the recommended ones for your car. I own a 2000 integra and a boyfriend decided he wouldn't listen to me and put new plugs and wires other than the platinum plugs that it called for. i had problems with it and i went and bought the platinum ones and it ran fine after that. always change the distributer cap along with the plugs and wires.
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
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