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When a manual transmission does that it means something has broken, worn out, worked loose...
If checking any external linkages does not reveal the fault it will be necessary to search inside the gearbox.
Broken selector fork isn't unusual or the pin or bolt holding the fork to the selector rod...
Sounds like one of the rods between the gear lever and gearbox has become detached. One rod transmits the forward-backward motion, the other left - right, with the "natural" bias keeping the lever in the 3rd / 4th gear plane - hence why you've only got 3rd and 4th gear.
You should have some guarantee from the company that fitted the clutch so contact them to sort it out.
If you're lucky it's the bottom bushing of the side link bar that is either worn out and loose or it has snapped completely - known problem, replace all the linkage bars.
If you're unlucky it's the lever inside the gearbox that has failed - it will be cheaper to replace the entire gearbox with a second hand one than to try to repair it.
Worn steering linkage or a worn gearbox check for play in both inner and outer tie-rod ends both idler arms and in extreme cases an excessive negative caster angle can cause the steering to feel loose also check steering sector shaft for missing splines or worn "rag joint" (where applicable) where the steering shaft connects to the gearbox one quick way to check these things is what is known as a dry park check == have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth to the point just before the wheels begin to move and watch the linkage this works best with the wheels on the ground and engine off
The most common of all problems in a steering system is excessive steering wheel play. Steering wheel play is normally caused by worn ball sockets, worn idler arm, or too much clearance in the steering gearbox. Typically, you shou Id not be able to turn the steering wheel more than 1 1/ 2 inches without causing the front wheels to move. If the steering wheel rotates excessively, a serious steering problem exists.
An effective way to check for play in the steering linkage or rack-and-pinion mechanism is by the dry-park test. With the full weight of the vehicle on the front wheels, have someone move the steering wheel from side to side while you examine the steering system for looseness. Start your inspection at the steering column shaft and work your way to the tie-rod ends. Ensure that the movement of one component causes an equal amount of movement of the adjoining component.
Watch for ball studs that wiggle in their sockets. With a rack-and-pinion steering system, squeeze the rubber boots and feel the inner tie rod to detect wear. If the tie rod moves sideways in relation to the rack, the socket is worn and should be replaced.
Another way of inspecting the steering system involves moving the steering components and front wheel BY HAND. With the steering wheel locked, raise the vehicle and place it on jack stands. Then force the front wheels right and left while checking for component looseness.
You will need to inspect the shift linkage for worn parts like rod end bushings, it is doubtful the transmission is the problem but rather the linkage rods that shift it. You will likely need to get under the car to check the bottom of the shifter.
You are right about the shift pattern. Reverse is hard left and up.If your gears are locked up, you'll probably have to remove the side cover and reset the shift levers to their neutral position and then slide gears around to put it back on. With it back on the shift levers should point up toward the car floor. 3-4 is the shift lever closest to the engine. 1-2 is the middle one and reverse is the one closest to the back of the tranny. Check all your swivel points for looseness. If there is any play then you'll have to bush it out or you'll have trouble getting it to shift into gear and stay in. I used some old copper pipe to make bushings on mine, because it used to jump out of gear.
To properly attach your shift linkage, put the shifter and the trans mounted shift levers in neutral. Loosen the locking clamps so the shift rods slide freely. start with the reverse lever, which is the inner most rod on the shifter and tighten the rod nut against the swivel. Then tighten the lock nut. Do the same with the 1-2 rod on the middle rod on the shifter and then the 3-4 which is the outside rod . This should set you up, according to Chilton.
They note that if the tranny is 68 Camero Muncie the shift rods need to be shortened 3 complete turns of the lock nut.
Hope some of this helps.
Could but just the gearbox selector rod has come loose
a local garage may be able to fix problem within half an hour without removing or replacing gearbox and should only cost very little.
If there was not major bang then i doubt any gearbox trouble it will just be a simple linkage issue.