Question about 2008 Saab 9-5

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I have had the gearbox replaced, clutch replaced and gear selector replaced but have stron vibration starting around 4-50 mph then very strong at around 70mph. Its a 2008 TDI 95-5 Turbo with 85,000 mi

The car runs smoothly under steady spped buy on acceleration vibrates mildly at 40-50 but up as 70 mph very severe. Garage thought it might be a worn bushing on the engine sub-frame as they said this would have been dropped during the gear box change. Don't really want to go back to the same garage as did the repairs as they were a complete nightmare. Any suggestions?

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  • 94 Answers

Did they replace the fly wheel?

Posted on Jul 06, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Saab 900 auto with "Check gearbox" light

Hello. I had the same problem when the Check Gearbox light came on, it would be very sluggish. It turned out to be a small sensor in the transmission that lets the car know what gear it is in. It started to go out slowly and only sometimes would send the information.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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SOURCE: Loud hum/vibration on acceleration - Saab 95 Linear 2.3t

I have the same issue. I have a harmonic hum that appears to come from the rear of the vehicle but with a vibration through the floor board. I have a 2009, Saab, 95. Have had the wheel bearings replace and rotators. The noise was load when you pulled up on the emergy brake one level. Adjusted assembly but still have hum.

Posted on Oct 29, 2010

  • 153 Answers

SOURCE: 2008 Saab turbo at idle with vibration?

The only thing I can this is a vacuum leak, either a hose or egr valve.

I hope this helps!

Posted on Nov 07, 2012

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: vehicle vibrates under acceleration but

same problem with 2008 9-3 aero....check engine light came on after car began vibrating and shuttering severely...p300 codes on 4 cylinders all at once! my husband replaced all 6 and car running great now...problem is only had 40,000 miles...ridiculous...be prepared to spend about $400 if you can repair yourself...

Posted on Jan 31, 2013

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have a 98 Saturn sc2 5-speed transmission that will not go into gear an I have already replace the shifting bushing when I first got the car don't know what else could be causing the problem clutch is...


Hi,just food for falt,undo the gear selector linkidge from the gearbox then have some one depress the clutch you try to select the gears from the gearbox,if you can select all the gears the problem is the linkidge if not the problem will be internal,
(which could be a selector in the gearbox its self.
which ever one it is best of luck.

Feb 19, 2015 | Saturn Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Vehicle dies when downshifting to first gear and also makes a squeling noise


Manual Transmission

  1. 1
    Park your car with its front tyres touching the curb. Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal without applying any throttle. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If the gearbox grinds when you try to shift in first from a standstill, there's a damage in the clutch too.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-1.jpg


  2. 2
    Try to pull off in 3rd gear with the front wheels at the curb, and without applying throttle. If the engine doesn't die, it shows a complete clutch failure. In that case, do not drive this vehicle.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-2.jpg
  3. 3
    Find a smooth, straight road to test the vehicle. Start from first, and slowly accelerate from second. As you do this use late-shifting, i.e. slightly over-rev the engine (approx. 500-1000 RPM faster than the revs you'd normally shift at). Up-shift to second without using double-clutching. Repeat the same procedure when shifting into 3rd. Now, with your car running at approximately 50 km/h (25 mph) try down-shifting to second without double-clutching. Both the up-shifting and the down-shifting must be done without grinding. Grinding of the gears indicates a gearbox malfunction, most likely in the sync gears ("synchronizers"). To make sure it's the synchronizers, try up-shifting and down-shifting with double-clutching. If the grinding stops, then it's the synchronization.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-3.jpg
550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-4.jpg
  • 2
    Shift into drive and hold the break pedal after making sure your brakes work. Press the gas pedal all the way down. The engine should not fade. If it does, it means the transmission (particularly the clutch) does not disengage completely.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-5.jpg
  • 3
    Check for smooth shifting. On an even and relatively horizontal road you should be able to accelerate without any tangible jolts. If there are such, the gearbox has malfunctioned.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-6.jpg
  • 4
    Check for vibrations. Driving at about 70 km/h (35 mph) switch to Neutral (both auto and manual). There shouldn't be any lateral vibrations. If there are, this is either due to a warping of the drive-shaft, or a suspension damage. Basically, drive-shaft warping is perceived as a vibration in both vertical and horizontal direction, whereas a suspension damage is felt as a vibration in only one direction (i.e. either horizontally or vertically).
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-7.jpg
  • 5
    Test steering. When trying to enter a corner with approximately 30 km/h (15 mph) there shouldn't be any tangible under-steer. The presence of such may be due to a differential failure, especially in FWD cars. Novice drivers must never try and test their differentials by trying to induce under/over-steer!
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-8.jpg
  • EditTips for preventing transmission damages

    • Avoid prolonged driving by slipping the clutch.
    • Avoid jerks and jolts while driving.
    • Avoid "riding the clutch", i.e. needlessly keeping your foot on the clutch pedal.
    • Never use clutch slipping for regulating the speed of a heavy truck!
    • Make sure the clutch of a manual transmission is fully pressed when shifting
    • Do not use excessive force when shifting a manual.
    • For rear wheel drive (RWD) vehicles, avoid driving through places at the minimum of the vehicle's clearance.
    EditTips

    • Incomplete disengaging is due to the trailing disc sticking to the leading one, e.g. because of mechanical soiling of the friction surfaces or worn out springs.
    • Incomplete disengaging in automatic transmissions is felt as a forward jolt when the gearbox changes gears, whereas incomplete engaging is felt as over-revving the engine without any significant change in speed, especially when stepping on the throttle at high speeds (over 50 km/h or 30 mph).
    • Automatic transmissions have the so-called "hydraulic clutch". It's basically a combination of a hydraulic pump, driven by the engine, and a hydraulic motor, linked to the rest of the drive-train. This allows for the hydraulic liquid to flow through the motor, even if its load is too big for the engine to rotate it. This eases operation, but results in poorer acceleration, greater fuel consumption and severely decreased ability of the driver to use engine braking, which can be very dangerous on long downward slopes. Hydraulic clutches are easier to operate in urban driving, but become a drawback on long roads
    • Gearboxes come in three types: manual, semi-automatic, and automatic
    • Malfunctions in a hydraulic clutch include incomplete disengaging (due to old hydraulic fluid, which has become thicker than specified by the manufacturer), or incomplete engaging (most often due to a leak of hydraulic fluid or presence of an air pocket within the hydraulic circuit. These are both dealt with by replacing the hydraulic fluid, bleeding (if necessary) of the hydraulic system, and removing any possible leaks.
    • The most common malfunction of a dispatch box is the inability to change its function (e.g. switch between 4x2 and 4x4) If this happens, refer to a repair shop.
    • The clutch is designed to smoothly disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive-train.
    • The clutch disengaging too low or too high is an indication of a worn out trailing disc.
    • There are implements that allow an automatic gearbox to operate in semi-automatic mode, allowing the driver to manually shift gear up or gear down, but w/o using a clutch. These operate exclusively by aids of electronics. This is common in high-class German cars like the S-Klasse Mercedes. Usually the corresponding position of the lever is marked with T or M and the driver selects a gear down by moving the lever to the left, and a gear up by nudging it do the right.
    • Semi-automatic gearboxes are combined with a hydraulic clutch. They allow the driver to select a gear up or a gear down. These are most often seen in rally cars, where there are two levers on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually the right one switches a gear up, and the left one switches a gear down.

    Aug 23, 2013 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

    1 Answer

    I have a bad vibration between 35 mph and 70 mph however if I take my foot off the gas the vibration goes away - have changed fuel pump, filters and engine mounts and now the esp light comes on and goes...


    vibrations can come from all manner of things, wheel imbalance thrown a weight or flat spot on tyre or damaged wall, suspension mounts, engine+gearbox mounts, anti roll bar mounts, wishbones lower mounts, drop links, steering rack and idlers, there can be others that you would not think can do this and these are clutch thrust bearing or plate spring. rear wheel drive prop shaft mounts, exhaust and mounts, automatics can be the torque converter out of balance. also can be worn bearings on the wheels. you would need to find were the location of the vibration starts and pin down its area this can help with another pair of ears in the vehicle.

    Jan 15, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    Clutch not letting engagement of gears, clutch pedal is soft.


    hi first thing to try is to adjust the clutch pedal cable up that is done at the gearbox side by adjusting the 10mm nut on the end of the cable, if after you have done this you can then select gears you will most probably need to replace clutch due to wear.if you cant select any gears even after adjusting the cable then it sound like you have a problem with the selector rod a common fault is for the bushes to wear and knock the selector out of line, check for excessive play in selector rod rubber bush.

    Sep 02, 2010 | 1996 Ford Escort 4 Door

    1 Answer

    Its a 2005 mk5 golf 1900 tdi when you get up to 70mph you get a massive vibration from the front of the car its worse if you dip the clutch ive removed the gearbox had it stripped and tested o.k,ive...


    if it were engine/gearbox you would feel the vibration at a specific rev range (say 3000 to 3500)but you say that when you put your foot on the clutch it gets worse....at 70 mph....so look for something from the tyres,wheels,bearings,rotors,drive shafts,
    the first thing is to have the wheels dynamically balanced(up/down/sideways)then check bearings......,going up in cost,always start with the cheapest parts as these tend to go quicker.

    Aug 16, 2010 | 2005 Volkswagen Golf

    1 Answer

    Just bought a passat estate . when i first start off when the engine and box is cold know problems .but when the engine and gearbox are hot i find it hard to find reverse gear and a bit tight going thought...


    Dose the clutch pedal drive in gear 1" from the floor OR 1"" from the top when you let it out. if its drives when almost out and there is a vibration on the pedal then the clutch needs replacing and it has nothing to do with the gear box or oil
    But the gearbox has to come out before you put a new complete clutch in

    Oct 02, 2009 | 1998 Volkswagen Passat

    1 Answer

    My gear selector is locked up. I can manually press a lever to unlock it and can then shift into gear. Once I get the gear selector unlocked, it works just fine.


    Hi it sounds like the problem is with the clutch unless you vehicle is auto if its auto box then the chances are this needs replacing if you have manual gearbox then i would get the clutch replaced or looked at.
    If the clutch is ok then it could be that the gear selector inside the gearbox is worn and needs replacing if this is the case then it would be cheaper to get a reconditioned gearbox as repairing it would cost about the same as a recon.
    If you need further assistance then let me know ok

    Aug 05, 2009 | 2003 Honda Pilot

    1 Answer

    Bad vibration engine trans under load


    seems your problem is within your clutch,defective part,usually a defective release bearing will cause gear shifter and pedal vibration but not as bad as yours,but by pressing on clutch pedal vibration stops,point to clutch!

    Apr 07, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Neon

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