No brake fluid out of master cylinder to one front brake caliper
Prior maintenance: Replaced hydraulic brake lines and brake calipers complete.
No delivery of brake fluid out of Master Cylinder reservoir. Opened rigid brake line attachment nut at the base of the Master Cylinder to check for brake fluid flow when brake pedal depressed. No fluid being forced out of Master Cylinder to RF rigid brake line. LF brake parts, lines and new caliper working fine.
Must be some sliding valve rod in base of Master Cylinder component that is displaced or shifted to one end preventing fluid delivery to RF brake caliper. (or not?)
FYI: Jaguar has four wheel disk brakes.
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A soft or spongy brake pedal is an indicator that there is air in the hydraulic line(s) of your brake system.
Improper bleeding could be a cause.
Damaged or malfunctioning master cylinder could be another cause...
Damaged, crimped, or pin hole leak in the brake line...
Leaking or damaged wheel cylinder...
Poorly adjusted brake calipers...
Using the wrong type of DOT brake fluid...
Using brake fluid from a previously opened container that has been sitting around for more than 6-months (DOT type 3 and type 4 are glycol-based fluids that absorb water).
It certainly sounds like the brake hoses are kinked or collapsed internally. Did you replace the flexible hoses or the steel hydraulic line? When you removed the calipers to change the pads did you let the calipers hang by the hoses or did you support them? When reinstalling the calipers did you make sure the hose wasn't twisted or kinked? The fluid certainly shouldn't be green, are you sure you're bleeding the correct thing?
Hi, Under the hood is the Master Cylinder. It contains brake fluid, which when you depress the brake pedal, acts as hydraulic fluid to flow through high pressure tubing called brake lines, from the Master Cylinder to the Wheel Cylinder (drum brakes) or Brake Piston Caliper (disc brakes). As you depress the pedal further hydraulic pressure expands the wheel cylinder which presses outward, 2 brake shoes inside a metal "drum" (drum brakes) or clamp the brake piston calipers together squeezing a disc-like rotor (disc brakes) thus stopping the vehicle.
Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers.----------There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.---- The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech
The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS
vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For
details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures
later in this section.
Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold
it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master
cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until
all air is removed from the master cylinder.
Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the
vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill,
immediately flush the area with water.
If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line
disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by
that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then
all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake
pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the
brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the
caliper or cylinder.
When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If
the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is
Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid
Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system
Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.
Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc
1999 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) . Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120) , front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185) .
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386).
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125) . Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
NOTE: To prevent damage, do not allow disc brake caliper to hang by the front brake hose (2078) .
Position disc brake caliper out of the way.
Remove inner outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate .
Inspect both rotor braking surfaces. Minor scoring or buildup of lining material does not require machining or replacement of front disc brake rotor.
remove the 2 pins, #10 in pic. Usually has a dust cover over pin accessopening. Usually torx haed or hex head bolts (pins).
You may have contaminated brake fluid. Try flushing out the brake lines, calipers, and master cylinder by bleeding the heck out of the brakes. Use a NEW can of brake fluid (see why below). This is something overlooked in vehicle maintenance. Whenever doing a brake job, flush the system. I learned the hard way, having calipers drag, not fully releasing, to change them and have it happen again. Finally figured out it was bad fluid which was ruining the calipers. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, which will wreck the system. Just leaving a bottle of fluid with a loose, or missing cap will allow moisture to enter. Brake lines will rust on the inside, and loose particles of rust floating around will cause big problems.
The master cylinder supplies the pressure to the brake fluid that travels between the maste brake cylinder resevoir and the brake caliper pistons (through the brake lines. If the master cylinder fails there will be insufficient compression of the brake fluid to make the calipers operate as designed. Leaks in the brake lines and/or cylinders is a possibility, and unrelated to functionality of the master cylinder. Also, pistons located in the brake calipers can form a corrosion ring on their inside walls if there is breakdown in the brake fluid or moisture that gets into the lines. Operating the vehicle when there is insufficient brake fluid in the master cylinder resevoir can also lead to air getting into the brake lines, causing bad working brakes. Air compresses more than brake fluid, and the master cylinder isn't designed to compress air in the brake lines. Sounds like a bad case of "lack of maintenance", as opposed to bad advice from the mechanics. That said, there's no excuse for bad installation. But, it's tough to improperly install a brake line since they are nothing more than hollow metal tubes. There should be no rubber connectors installed in the brake lines. When bleeding the brake lines one must remove all of the trapped air before you will see any fluid appear. If the valves in the master cylinder are not properly operating the master cylinder will not allow the brake fluid to get into the brake lines.
loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck