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Malibu vibrating front brakes

I have a 2006 chev Malibu. I put new wheel bearing and new rotors and pads on front. I also installed new shoes on rear. I had a vibrating rotor problem, which apparantly was occuring in drivers side. After all new afore mentioned parts, I still have it?!?! Does anyone know why this still is occuring?? I thought I soled it with new rear shoes, and after it was done, it seemed to have solved it, but after 3 days, its all back again....

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  • Tony Apr 02, 2014

    ....I also checked the status of the control arm bushings as well, b/c I read that this can cause the problem too, however, the bushings are rock solid with no play

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 75,822 Answers

Something is loose in the steering system or you have a tire that is suffering from a separated cord. I would swap the tires to the rear and see if that helps.

Posted on Jun 30, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

tripletauto
  • 1450 Answers

SOURCE: new brakes

IF ROTORS WERE CUT TO FAST IT WILL CAUSE A CLICKING NOISE LOOK AT ROTOR AND SEE IF IT LOOKS LIKE IT HAS A SCREW STYLE SURFACE

Posted on Aug 20, 2008

  • 401 Answers

SOURCE: Rear passenger side brake keeps hoping when brakes applied

hi make sure the hub flanges are clean and no rust

Posted on May 25, 2009

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: rear brakes (driver-side) squeal after replacing rotors and pads

you need to grease the metal clips at the top and bottom of the pads (dont get grease on the rotor or pad though) and also spray some "disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads. it comes in a red can and the spray that comes out is like sticky red paint. do those 2 things and the squeals will be gone.

Posted on May 30, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 cr v brake pad/rotor issues

I don't see much of a problem here...The only thing I find to be a bit odd is that rears needed service first. Front brakes do about 65-70% of stopping...generally they tend to wear first. Highway stopping and slowing requires just as much force (and wear) due to the fact that instead of slowing a slow moving vehicle, there is quite a bit more energy to dissipate (brakes convert the stored kinetic energy (momentum) of your vehicle in motion into heat...that's how they stop it from moving) It doesn't take much to slow or stop 3,000lbs (+) going slowly, to stop that same load going 70 is a whole different story.
Todays brake materials are superior to what was available years ago (thank you drag racers and NASCAR) But, because of EPA regulations (fuel mileage mandates) the mass of your brake system has been drastically reduced to the point that it's surprising that they last as long as they do. (mass = weight = less mpg) Having a larger caliper and rotor disipate heat far better than a small assembly can. Therefore essentially your brakes are being asked to do more with far less than ever before.
You can "customize" your system by adding ceramic linings and race type rotors, but the added expense may not justify the small longevity and performance benefit. The factory stuff needs to be a compromise in production cost and reliability. As the vehicle owner you are not bound by that compromise.
Getting nearly 30K between brake services is actually fairly decent. You could take the "sting" out of this service by learning how to do this work yourself. Using the best "premium" parts will cost you far less than dealer prices.
So, answering your question, I do not believe that the dealer is doing anything incorrectly, and the parts they are using are likely far better than most "bargain" parts. I also don't feel that there is anything design-wise that is bad in your vehicle, other than the constraints put on manufacturers regarding all vehicles and production cost. So, it's not just yours.
Hope this helps you understand the why of it...
Good luck with your car!!!

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Malibu Maxx - rotors were out of round.

In order to retract the pistons on the rear calipers you need to use a special tool that will rotate the piston in a clockwise direction.It may be possible to try to use a strong needle nose plier.Apply force against the U shaped slots on the piston and rotate clockwise until the piston bottoms out.Before you reinstall the caliper make sure that the recessed slots are at 12 and 6 "o"clock..the slots align with one or two bumps on the inside pad.
If you are having problems with your calipers rebuilt one are a good option.If only the caliper slide pins are sticking they can be cleaned and lubricated.Pin lubricant sometimes comes with a set of brake pads.Other than that lube may be purchased separately at an automotive supply store.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

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1 Answer

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