Question about 2000 Chevrolet Silverado
Temp moved to normal running range,heater would not get hot and temp moved a little higher than normal
I think it's the hot water valve also, at least check it by feeling the hoses that go from the heater to the engine,
If hoses are hot, then its ok. it's a sign that hot water is circulating
and you should go ahead and drain the coolant and see if it's dirty, or has stop leak, and refill the radiator with fresh coolant, be sure to pour in as slow as you can. be patient
now at least you changed your coolant, and no air pockets trapped in the system. go from there. if it's the hot water valve you can look it up on you tube.
Posted on Apr 01, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: heater want get hot
heat exchanger not working look under dash find where cable goes from heater controls the hot and cold switch move back and forth to find it its not opening all the way when you move it to hot push it farther by hand this will open the airway for your heater core
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
SOURCE: Engine running hot
Sounds like your antifreeze level is low. When it flows you get hot air and when there's an air bubble due to lack of antifreeze all you'll get is air.
Posted on Aug 29, 2008
Check the fuel pressure, bad fuel pump or sock on the fuel pump and fuel filter check spark plugs and check distributor cap, a fuel pump is $273.00 or a bad injector $110.99 or BWD Fuel Vapor Pressure Sensor for $35.99 any of these parts could cause the problem, so without doing a fuel pressure test it is a guess, if the vapor switch is bad it could cause a long crank time if the fuel pump is bad it has a check valve in the fuel pump, if the check valve goes bad the pump can't maintain fuel pressure so on start up the fuel has to pump from the tank all the way up to the fuel rail, if the injectors is bad it could leak after engine shut down and cause you to lose fuel rail pressure. Also the fuel vapor sensor could be stuck open and could cause the problem, all need to be tested, you can rent the fuel pressure tester from AutoZone or advance auto or Shucks they return your money when you bring the tool back as long as you buy the parts to repair it from them. That would be the first thing I would check fuel pump pressure and if you replace the pump then change the fuel sock as well. That model was not meant to burn ethanol and can kill the fuel sock the fuel pump and filter.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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Mar 06, 2011 | Ford Focus Cars & Trucks
?· The gauge is working correctly and plugged into the temp sender near the thermostat.
?· You have the correct fluid level (Please be careful checking this)
?· Your heater core and engine radiator not clogged with sediment
?· Flush out your radiator and heater core
?· Replace your engine thermostat with the specified temperature range your vehicle requires (parts store tech can help you obtain the correct one)
Jan 01, 2011 | Dodge Stratus Cars & Trucks
Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...
Did your heater work before your work?
Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?
If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn
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