Question about 1999 GMC Yukon Denali
Ignition control module? Bad grounds? Fuel pump relay? Bad compression? Timing chain or belt? Better start troubleshooting and stop throwing parts at it. This could get expensive in a hurry.
Posted on Mar 31, 2014
Take spark plug out and rest on top of engine. Needs to earthed. Crank engine and check for spark. Next check for fuel. Disconnect injector and check for squire of fuel, catch in a container. Not good to have fuel down side of engine. If not fuel could be fuel regulator or pump, another sensor here. Last thing timing, but unlikely unless you had reason to take timing chain off. Now give up and see mobile mechanic to plug computer on clear all faults and then try again. Good luck
Posted on Mar 31, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It has to be done with a scanner. You can adjust this distributor, but there are no timing marks to watch as you move it. There is a timing mark on the balancer and on the timing cover for referencing Top Dead Center #1 cylinder only, but it is only used for dropping the distributor in to get the engine up and running. A scanner is needed to properly adjust the timing. Connect the scanner and look for a data parameter labeled ‘cam offset’ or possibly ‘cam ******.’ It will be listed in degrees. Start the engine, and bring it up to 1500 rpm. Note the reading. If the timing specification is not within plus or minus two degrees of zero, you need to move the distributor. You can move the distributor with the engine running but the timing will not change. After you move the distributor, the ignition has to be cycled off to let the computer learn the new timing spec. Restart the engine, bring it up to 1500 rpm and see what the new spec is. You must repeat this procedure until you get the timing into the specification as mentioned above. Once you have it set to spec, the code should clear.
Posted on May 18, 2008
This could be a number of things but i think that your problem sounds like a vacuum leak or an EGR problem. Try listening for leaks and try un-plugging the EGR solenoid valve one time.
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
the starter could be too close to the flywheel. try adding a couple of starter shims. it also could be drawing to many amps from internal corrosion from water intrusion.
Posted on May 07, 2009
try the oil pressure switch, that was a common problem on Gm trucks when I used to work on them, the oils switch was bad and woulden't allow it to start and the ones I worked on were on the back of the distributor.
Posted on May 29, 2009
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