Question about 1996 Ford Mustang
When key is turn over, I get no clicking sound. do have lights, fuel pump is pumping, just don,t start the car.
First make sure you have good battery connections. A poor connection will give enough power to turn on head lights but not turn on starter motor. Clean the connections and ensure they are tightened.
If connections are good, check voltage of battery. It should be at least 12 volts.
If battery voltage is low, either charge the battery, or attempt to jump start the car (red to positive terminals, black to negative terminals; attached positive first, prefer to attach negative terminal to a good metal location other than the negative terminal on the battery).
If the starter motor is visible, try tapping lightly with a mallet to free it up. This may or may not work depending on the problem. If the car starts, replace the starter motor anyway or it will strand you again.
Most cars have a starter relay and a fuse for the ignition. Do a Google search on the internet for your model of car, or look in your owners manual to find the location of the solenoid and/or fuse. Replace the fuse if it's burned out. Note that a shorted starter motor could cause the fuse to burn out, so replacing the fuse may not fix the problem. Suspect a shorted starter motor or wire if the fuse burns out again. You may need some professional assistance at this point to check the solenoid.
If the solenoid is bad, it is usually replaced along with the starter. Remove starter motor/solenoid and take to an Autozone or Oreilly or equivalent and have them check its functionality. Be sure to disconnect the battery's negative terminal before removing the starter motor.
If the starter is good, then your problem is likely either your car's security system (check if security light is flashing if you have such) or check the ignition switch. If you have a mechanic friend, see if he can bypass the ignition switch and get the starter motor to turn over.
Poor electrical connections or a bad battery or a bad starter motor/solenoid are the most likely culprits.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: electrical issue
Not sure this is the solution..but the same thing happened to me several times over a few month span. After many attempts to fix a number of items (alternator, etc.), I was told that there was a problem with the radio, and that it had to be "factory reset." My local dealer got some kind of code from Ford and fixed the problem. I haven't had a problem for over a year.
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
SOURCE: 94 Mustang GT starts great
have you changed the fuel filter yet? They do clog up. That or you may have trash in your tank, and the screen is clogged. Hopefully its the fuel filter. The pump screen is located in the tank, and that means dropping the tank. hope this helps
Posted on Dec 29, 2010
No noise from fuel pump when you turn over the car .First thing get voltage at fuel pump relay checked, is there 12 volt to the relay.If no, then problem is again the relay.---------
To reconfirm the problem, try other test, that is remove the relay and by pass the relay terminals with a jumper wire .Then with 12 volt external battery give power to fuel pump connector and see, if the fuel pump starts, then its clear that fuel pump relay is faulty.----------- Also other problem can be fuel pump inertia switch.If the inertia switch is faulty then also fuel pump will not start.--------
The fuel pump relay on a 1995 Ford Explorer is in the power distribution
box, in the engine compartment, driver's side near the firewall.----------
The fuel pump inertia switch is in the right front passenger area
it is below the dash but above the carpet in the right hand corner.--------
Its a push button type inertia switch.
Fuel Pump Activation
When ignition switch is turned to START position, PCM operates fuel pump relay to provide fuel for starting engine. PCM senses engine speed and shuts off fuel pump by opening ground circuit to fuel pump relay when engine stops or engine speed drops to less than 120 RPM. When ignition switch is in ON position, EEC power relay is energized (contacts closed). Power is provided to fuel pump relay and timer in PCM. Fuel pump receives power through fuel pump relay contacts.
Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) Switch
All models use an electrical interrupt switch in fuel system. During a collision or vehicle rollover, electrical contacts within inertia switch open, shutting off fuel supply to electric fuel pump. Fuel supply is interrupted even when engine is running.
A reset button is located on switch assembly. If electrical circuit trips, vehicle will not restart until switch is reset. Fuel system should be inspected before resetting switch.
IFS switch is located under instrument panel, near right side of transmission hump. ----------- If the fuel pump relay, the inertia switch and fuel pump all checked ok, and fuel pump is working with direct 12 volt source to fuel pump.Then problem relates to computer.The computer (power control module, PCM) is faulty and has to be replaced.--------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Jul 17, 2011
Testimonial: "Thanks. That was the best answer yet.I didn't want to hear that the PCM might need to be replaced but the car has served it's purpose through the year"
Had a problem like this before and it was the computer..But you could faintly smell something like burnt wires..The computer should be down by the kick panel on the driverside..See if you smell anything on that side
Posted on Sep 08, 2011
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Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they get loud or stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?
Also, do you smell a strong fuel odor when it won't start? May be one or more stuck-open injectors, or the coil pack is bad.
Checking these in the order listed will more than likely fix your problem.
The clicking noise indicates the battery can no longer run the starter, which also means the fuel pump won't run either.
It could be a fuel issue. How old is the fuel filter? Can you hear the pump run for a few seconds when you turn the key on? Try turning the key to ON without trying to start engine three times waiting for the pump to stop running each time. Then try to start the engine. If it starts, Its a form of Vapor lock caused by the extreme heat we have had lately, and a weak fuel pump.
If none of this works, try a new fuel filter first. From there have someone check the fuel pressure regulator and then the pump. If you are in need of a new pump, take my word for it and spend the money to get one from a Dealer, and not from your favorite parts store. Most parts store parts are made in China and they are JUNK.
Aug 28, 2011 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer
Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All
Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be something as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.
Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter solenoid.
Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this problem.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.
Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.
Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start
Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.
Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.
Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.
Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.
Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off
Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.
Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you
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