Question about 1985 Chevrolet Chevy
Left blinker works fine. When I turn on right blinker the 15 amp fuse blows.
Check that you have a bulb tat has only point of contact because if you have a stop tail bulb in there or a duel point contact bulb for a return earth it will short straight to earth
Posted on Mar 31, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Engine 1 fuse powers the computer and some sensors. I had this same problem on a 98 chevy van 3500 and found the wire going to one of the oxygen sensors had shorted out on the heat shield. Inspect the wires going to all of the oxygen sensors. On this van one of the oxygen sensors on the driverside the wire was laying on the heat shield which eventually rubbed through the wire and shorted it out blowing the fuse. Your short could be on a different sensor but check all of the oxygen sensors because the wire runs so close to the sharp heat shield.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
You need to check for power coming out of the turn signal switch with a test light, or voltmeter. On older Chevys, the R/F turn signal wire is dark blue. Check the color of your wire at the bulb socket, then locate the turn signal switch connector, and probe that color wire with the ignition switch on, and turn signal switch in the right position. If you have power coming out of the T/S switch, you have bad connection, or open circuit between it and the bulb socket.
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
SOURCE: Blowing ECM-B fuses
The ECM-B fuse is a 20 amp fuse, and you should NEVER put a larger fuse in to try to overcome any problem. The oil pressure switch is a secondary concern; there is an idiot light or oil pressure guage in the dash to alert you to oil pressure problems. Under heavy load, such as towing, your engine requires more fuel, and if your fuel pump is going/has gone bad, it cannot supply the demand.
The problem is almost certainly a fuel pump wire harness short, caused by a dying fuel pump. I have both had this problem myself, and repaired it on three other vehicles. On my vehicle, the wire harness had welded itself together when the fuel pump locked up, and the wire harness caught on fire.
The fuel pump is in the gas tank (of course my tank was full), and the tank has to be dropped to access it. The wire harness is modular, with plugs at both ends, and can be bought from the Chevrolet or GMC dealer.
If you put an incorrectly-rated fuse anywhere in your vehicle's electrical system, the WORST place to do it is where you have--the fuel pump circuit. Fuses blow for a reason, and the manufacturer's engineers properly size the fuses for the application at hand. Please don't do that again.
This can be a very dangerous problem and repair, and no, it is not cheap.
Do not attempt to operate this vehicle until you have had the problem properly corrected. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 14, 2010
SOURCE: i have a 2006 impala
CHECK THE PSI IN THE SYSTEM IF ITS READING MORE THAN 40 PSI OF 134A SOMEONE OVER CHARGED SYSTEM,(CAN BLOW COMPRESSOR) IF THE PSI IS WITHIN PARAMETERS PUT A NEW RELAY IN IF ITS A STANDERT 5 PROG 12V RELAY THE OEE# IS MOST LIKELY ER13 ONCE THE PSI AND RELAY HAVE BEEN CHECKED IF THE FUSE STILL POPS....ITS A SHORT WHICH IS A NIGHTMARE FOR ANY CLASS A MECHANIC....FIND A ELECTRICAL SKIMATIC AND CALL AN AMRATURE PRO....
Posted on Sep 12, 2010
The most likely problem is, you have a trap door sticking in the duct system under the dash.
Unfortunately the only way to know for sure is to remove the panels between the bottom of the dash and the floor to visually inspect. If you have a dual zone/climate controll system, you have what's refered to as a split door system and those have been known to be problematic.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 24, 2011
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