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Just losen the mounting drop the engine abit until its far enough for the fanbelt to pass the mounting and replace it. May i ask are you sure its the fanbelt according to my knowledge ive never heard of a fanbelt on a corsa bakkie where thd engine mounting can prevent it from coming off
i don't know what car it is but this is what I know
The belt is held tightly in place by a number of pulleys. If you loosen just one, it will come off easily. (there are other variations with spring loaded tensioners but this advice concentrates on the basic system).
The alternator is usually rigged up so it can be swung sideways to loosen the belt.
All you have to do is find the right size spanner or socket wrench, loosen the mounting bolts on alternator then back off the single top bolt just enough to let the alternator move around.
Now you can slip the old belt off, check it for size against the new one and slip the new one on.
The new belt has to be reasonably tight. Not so tight that it will snap, of course, but tight enough to drive the alternator and water pump. You can just heave on the alternator but you'd probably have trouble holding it tight. Instead, slide a hammer handle or similar lever between the alternator and the mounting, taking care not to damage the alternator housing. Now all you need is a very light pressure to hold it tight while you do up the bolts. When the adjustment is complete, there should be approximately 10 mm to 13 mm of play in the belt, any more and the belt needs tightening.
The new belt will settle-in and stretch a little, so the tension should be checked again after 200 kilometres.
I would check the old slave cylinder against the new, check they are both the same size and that the new one isn't shorter, failing that it would mean taking the box out again and checking the old units against the new, ie height of pressure plates, depth of release bearing etc. Regards Mike
You can tighten the belt or replace the belt - its a REALLY REALLY EASY job, can be done in 5 minutes by a novice -
Buy a new fanbelt (£4.00 approx - dont pay more than £7.00 go somewhere else if you encounter silly prices!!!)
the alternator is on the bottom of the engine on the left hand side, looking at it it seems you need to do it from underneath, if you park it with the 2 offside(right hand side) wheels on the kerb that should give enough room.
There are 2 bolts with nuts that go through the alternator holding it in place, slacken these bolts (one is a "hinge", one is a "clamp") so you can move the alternator - either fit the new belt (look at the old one first and see how it goes on) or tighten the alternator with the old one.
See how by moving the alternator you slacken and loosen the belt...
Pull it to tighten the belt and then while still pulling/pushing tighten the "clamp" bolt to hold the alternator in place, then tighten the "hinge" bolt then again put full pressure on the clamp bolt and tighten it fully.
You have to keep pressure on the alternator while you tighten the bolts,
'the bolts must be tightened very tight, you wont break the bolts unless you are particularly strong so just tighten them as tight as you can.
The belt should have very little give in it but some*** , be sturdy but not SOLID! -
should be quiet again!
If you need a more detailed walkthrough I'm happy to help - if you reply once you have a new fanbelt (recommended) i'll take you step by step.
Are you talking about the fuel pump? If you are, then they are wrong. You can go to a parts store and get the ring that seals the pump for under twenty dollars. The water pump's seal is inexpensive too, but if you ever have the water pump off on a high mileage vehicle, it's good to replace it anyway.
If you open the bonnet and look to the left hand side you will see the jockey wheel that keep the belt tight tight. It has a square 3/8 inch fitting in it, put in a rachet of that size and take the tension off. Your belt will now lift off all the pulleys easy. If I was you I would make a simple drawing before you actually take off the drive belt as it runs over a number of pulleys and if you do the drawing easy to fit the new one on.
Once you have old one off fit new one and take the tension off with the rachet as you did prior to removing use your drawing to fit it correctly. I would also make sure your jockey wheel is fine prior to fitting the new belt listen for any rough bearing noise from it when you spin it.
Make sure you get the right belt from a ford dealership asthe length is critical of the new one even one a little shorter wont fit, dont be talked into buying one that seems nearly the right length, it must be the Ford one and the right length.
Bought a longer screw and cranked that baby up to compress it. Then I threw the old bolts on that are shorter and it is gravy. I ran into a problem taking off the driver side shock though. The top of the old shock I was trying to remove stripped. That screwed me a few hours but I cracked the nut with a nut splitter and popped it off with a chisel and hammer after relentless whackings. New shocks installed in the front and I am good to roll. NUT SPLITTERS are a lifesaver. The amount of torque needed to crank a manual one is rediculous. Save yourself some time and strength and try to find a cheap hydrolic little one.