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The clutch/slave cylinder wont fully budge in, even after bleeding the line. I need help))

92 nissan, cylinder doesn't have spring

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  • rmcmillan194
    rmcmillan194 Apr 13, 2014

    Hi Derek Balboa, I want to help you with your problem, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?
    Did you replace the slave cylinder?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Hydraulic clutch problems

i have a ktm 125 wich all ktms have hydraulic cluthcs and i have the same problem as all these fellas even when im riding it just sucks right down all the fluid reply to me on X-KTMrida-X@hotmail.com ok thanks fellas

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

  • 275 Answers

SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

if you loosten the slave bleeder screw and push in the clutch pedal fluid should come out if not make sure someone holds down the pedal and tighten the screw then pump the clutch a few times and hold the pedal and open the screw if no fluid repeat a couple of times if still no fluid you need either a new master cylinder or just rebuild it( normally cheaper) and if you rebuild it make sure you flush all the lines of debris

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

autodr
  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

johnthejag
  • 286 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding the slave cylinder

Hi

Best to get the help of a friend to pump the clutch pedal for you.

Take care with the brake fluid, as it removes paintwork !

Top up your clutch fluid reservoir, connect a bleeding tube to the nipple on your slave cylinder, and put the other end of tube in a container.

Get your friend to pump pedal 3 times, and then hold to the floor.

Open the nipple for 5 seconds or so, then close.

Repeat this about 6 to 8 times topping up the fluid as you go.

You should then find, that the air is out of your system, and your pedal is back to normal !

Good luck !

A FixYa rating would be nice.... Thank you ! John.



Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 95 mazda b4000 slave cylinder bleeder valve location

the nipple sticks out side the bell housing on the left side just above your hydralic line for your clutch,auto zones web has a complete diagraham and steps for bleeding

Posted on May 09, 2009

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Bobbie, If your sure the system is bled properly,did you get the clutch fork back in correct position, was it the correct bearing etc., you may have to adjust the clutch pedal and / or if it has a mechanical return spring, change the spring, it could be weak.
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Check and bleed out the air in the system . It may be necessary to undo the line on the master cylinder to allow the unit to prime up first . Do up the line then bleed from the slave cylinder nipple. You will require a helper as it will not bleed out by gravity.

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the most likely reason is either the clutch master cyl. needs to be replaced.or the.slave cyl. its mounted down on the transmation under the hood find the resivore for the clutch. check the fluid level.if its low , fill it back up , and look for signs of a leak
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your clutch uses a hydraulic master and slave cylinder to disengage. It is likely that the slave has been leaking and the reservoir gone dry, thus allowing air into the system and reducing effectiveness. Check the clutch master cylinder reservoir (near the brake reservoir) fluid level. If low, also check the slave cylinder at the clutch for leakage. If leaking, replace the slave and bleed the system. If you need procedures or have more questions, please let us know.

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The bleed screw should be located on the slave cylinder, near the clutch area, but the problem sounds like no fluid in the system caused by a blown piston cup in either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder, or a hole in the connecting fluid line. Look for fluid leaks from one end to the other. Hope this helps!

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My clutch pedal wont spring back once i've released it. I've replaced the clutch, clutch fork & clips, throw-out bearing, clutch master cylinder, and even a slave cylinder. On top of all that, i've...


A clutch pedal not springing back is almost always an indication that there is air in the system. Bleeding out a clutch is a tedious endeavor to say the least.
I suggest you open up the bleeder screw & gravity bleed the clutch.(This will take a long time as well!)

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Bleeeding the clutch


This is what I would do.
Fill the master with brake fluid.
Make sure the slave cylinder bleeder is closed.
Have someone pump the clutch pedal fully down and while allowing it to come fully up about 20 times and then hold down.
Now with the clutch held down ........open the bleeder and hopefully some air will come out.
Repeat until fluid appears with out air.
The clutch master cylinder piston must be allowed to come fully back in it's cylinder to take in a new load of brake fluid with every pump and in normal operation.
Another way to bleed it......is to vacuum the fluid through the system from the master cylinder .......connecting to the slave cylinder bleeder valve.

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Hello i just replaced my clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder i bleed the lines but i cant get the truck in gear what can i do


did your clutch work ok before you replaced it ? if so recheck the clutch action at the tranny it should move 5-6 inchs when you depress it if not rebleed it ?clutch fork should move if not you still got air in it ?

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You either have air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Check fluid is being delivered from the master cyl. by slackening off the hydraulic line connection at the master cylinder while depressing pedal.
Until fluid is able to be delivered from the master cyl. itself you have no hope of bleeding the rest of the system.

As with all hydraulic bleeding processes, only release the fluid line when the pedal is being pushed slowly down or held down against the return spring pressure of the clutch pressure plate - re-tighten it on the upward stroke of the pedal to stop it drawing air back into the system.

If you are confident that there is fluid delivery from the master cyl. move to the clutch slave cylinder.

Again only open the bleeder valve when the pedal is being pushed slowly down (i.e. the hydraulic system is pressurised).

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When fluid appears, finish the slave cylinder air bleed in the normal way.

If you have the time to spare, I have often found that provided the master cylinder is kept full, leaving the system overnight will allow a lot of the air to leave the system (gravity helps).

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