Question about BMW 316
Hi there i recently bought a 2000 plate bmw 316i se and if u start the engine from cold and take away the car sputters as if misfiring once the engine has heated up this problem seems to eliminate and run smoothly . the cars engine management light is also on ive been told air fuel mixture as well as garages replacing the lambda sensors but this hasnt fixed the problem has any one got any ideas ?
There is not carburetor in this car. Check all the rubberhouses for airleaks. Second the sparkplugs can be swimming in the oil, due the valvecover rubberseals are hardened. Then there is a possible fault camshaftsensor. The last possibility are ignition coils. Thats it, believe or not.
Posted on Apr 18, 2014
Coolant temp sensor ....very common not telling the Ecu to give mor fuel to the rail when cold
Posted on May 09, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
take a look at the EGR valve it could be either vacum controlled or electronic either way what seems to be the problem is that the valve is stuck in the open position until the engine warms up you can gently tap the egr valve with a small hammer or a screw driver and you can see that it runs smooth, now if the egr valve is vacum controlled replace the valve. if it is electronoc controlled replace the valve and the module for the egr valve.
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
hi Fred, kind of sounds like you have a sticking, or contaminted idle valve. when it is 40-45F outside, a sticking or contaminated valve will cause the fuel mixture to be to rich. as the temp warms, the mixture requirement is not as rich. a quick check is to hold the gas pedal to the floor for 5-10 seconds when cranking cold and then let up. if it seems like it wants to start, the valve is faulty.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
SOURCE: 2000 lincoln ls cracked head???
Previous to 2000 Ford had a cylinder head gasket problem with some of the v6 engines failing at two cylinders at opposite corners of engine (don't know what engineyou have) They supposedly corrected that, but I'm not sure how well the correction worked. I doubt if the cylinder head is cracked but if some amount of compression is getting into cooling system it's possible that it may give you strange sensor readings. When testing, it's also possible that some air escaped and returned everything to "normal" ('till it builds up again).
At this point, I would get a second opinion on this. As well as a comprehensive computer scan, have someone do a radiator hydrocarbon test...that will reveal any compression in cooling system from gasket or any other source. (Don't mention that it was checked before, just say what originally happened so objective testing will be done.)
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
It NEVER was the camshaft sensor! Unless, you've removed the engine lately, which I doubt.
RUN to Advance Auto Parts and buy a can of "SeaFoam" and add to your gas tank per instructions...drive at least 100 miles and the problem should go away...IF it doesn't you'll have to replace the O2 sensors in the exhaust system...Any good mechanic should be able to do this for much less $$ than the dealership DO NOT go to the dealer for repairs!
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
right renew the glow plug timer/relay if you put a meter on the glow plugs when cold and turn ign on (with help) it should supply power for a about 20 secs ,time depends on outside air temperature ,if all else fails then do a colin --- use a push button switch,wired to a relay so glow plugs can be operated by pushing the switch which you will mount on the dash ,cant beat a manual overide system
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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