Question about 2005 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz CL500
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
before you spend any more money on your vehicle run a cylinder compression test. I know it seems unlikley with less than 100,000 miles but 119 engines do like to burn valves. the LH fuel injection system was only used from 93-95. LH is a germen abreviation for hot wire mass airflow. The later systems use a hot film. Your vehicle has electronic fuel injection so why did you have the fuel injecters pressure cleaned. unless you have the cis system which means your car is not a 95. Motor mounts are also a very common failure on that vehicle. In any event rule out the worst case and perform a compression test because it really sucks to spend alot on an engine and find out it needs a valve job. I'm assuming that the check engine light is not on. although wireharness issues are another common issue. these early C.A.N. cars are very difficult to troubleshoot electronically and the information provided by the factory is difficult to follow.
Posted on May 17, 2009
It really could be any number of things. Generally I rule out ignition first because it is the easiest system to check. This vehicle has a continuous injection system that is complicated if you do not know what you are doing. In my opinion from the info, stated it sounds like you have a combination of problems. 1 most likely an airslide(idle valve) issue-possibly a major vacuum leak. 2 idle speed control issue. There is an over voltage relay located behind the battery(it is red and has a 10 amp fuse on top of it-it controls your idle speed computer and your abs computer. also if you have a high idle there are 2 micro switches located on your throttle linkage that show continuity one way and no continuity the other way. I would test those with an ohm meter to make sure they work properly. if all checks out scope test car and perform vac. smoke test to check for leaks-this will have to be done at a repair shop by a professional.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
SOURCE: runs rough at idle and
Sounds like your Idle Air Control Valve is starting to go bad. Normally I just tell people to replace it because it's a cheap easy fix, but with your particular vehicle it costs over $400. With that in mind, I would recommend either replacing it or trying to clean it with some throttle body cleaner. It is located on the throttle body and here is a link to AutoZone to give you an idea of what you are looking for:http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Engine+Management&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=cat30067¤tPage=1&filterByKeyWord=iac&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=15900207&categoryNValue=15999999&fromWhere=&itemId=prod61721&displayName=Idle+Air+Control+Valve&searchText=iac Good luck and thanks for using FixYa!
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
This is an interesting part, and I spent quite some time to fix the problem. I list it here those steps in the order could fix the problem ranging from least expensive to most expensive steps. It just happened to me the last one really eliminated the problem. 1- Make sure it gets turned up first. 2- Adjust cables to increase idle. There are two cables. You remove the air filter to see them clearly. a- one for the gas, the other for transmission. b- clean the area well so you can see a micro switch. This switch called cut off switch. c- whatever adjustment you make, the level of the switch has to press on the switch to maintain the idle. If you see it off, you can bend the metal part to keep it in place 3- Take off the Fuel distributor to clean the throttle below it. 4- Replace all the injectors. These are not Electronic Fuel Injectors so you don't have to deal with Injector module. 5- Replace the fuel distributors. Good luck.
Posted on Sep 26, 2009
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