Question about 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Abs ingages while driving slow.

The brakes grab while appling, itmakes a noise and the brake start imgaging

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  • Jeep Master
  • 3,679 Answers

Have you checked pad wear recently also brake fluid level

Posted on Mar 30, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Makes A clicking noise, when stopping; at 10-15 MPH.

Have you had the U-joints checked? They usually click when turning, especially the front ones. Hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

  • 226 Answers

SOURCE: Brakes engage automatically while I am driving slowing me down and there is a burning odor.

All i can suggest is that you probably have a brake hanging up. To check and see which one it is, drive the vehicle and feel (carefully in case its real hot) to see which wheel is hotter than the others. I use a hand held electronic temperature sensor, but you can tell by feel. Rick

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

  • 308 Answers

SOURCE: car shakes after stat up

check the battery ,check and replace wheel bearings,check replace wires and fuses.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: rear brakes dont grab enough!

A few possibilities exist: Your rear brakes may be binding (rusted pistons)
but usually that will affect one side more than the other. More common reason is that the master cylinder is bypassing or air has gotten into the rear half of the system. (usually the pedal won't feel "right" if either happens. If the pedal feels normal I'd look at the porportioning valve. If that fails, it will not permit pressure to reach the rear brakes.
As for the e-brake, they are really not designed to lock up but depend on vehicle weight and motion to cause them to hold. In the past they were used as a "fail safe" in the brake system. presently they are more used as a "hill hold" to keep pressure off the transmission and shift linkage when the vehicle is parked on a hill.
First make sure nothing in the brake assembly is binding and preventing full engagement, and that there is no air in the system or a master cyl problem, then check the valve.

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

  • 324 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal hard as a

Hi sdixon!

Please read this all the way through so you get the full picture, because the last sentence is VERY important to troubleshoot your problem correctly!

The problem is usually associated with the master cylinder. The first thing to check is the vacuum booster unit- make sure it is getting vacuum and that the hose that leads to it from the engine has not come off or was torn. When you disconnect the hose from the booster unit, there should be allot of suction on the end of it. If not, find and fix the vacuum leak.

**Note- The following is much easier and safer if you can get your Jeep up on a lift so all 4 wheels are in the air. If you have a friend or family member that has access to a lift, ask them for help!

A frozen master cylinder piston will also cause your problem, but to be certain you need to eliminate each of the wheel cylinders/calipers first. You will need one other person to help check this... Jack up one wheel at a time. Make sure each wheel can spin freely (you will have to put your Jeep in neutral, so block the wheels so it ca'nt roll) Note if any wheel seems to be dragging. When the brakes are applied, you should not be able to spin the wheel at all (put allot of effort into it to make sure). A dragging wheel, and/or one that you can turn with the brakes being pressed indicates a frozen wheel cylinder piston or caliper piston (you did not specify the year of your Jeep, so I mention both to cover the rear drum brakes in older Jeeps. Example: My 2001 Grand Cherokee is rear disc, so it has calipers).
If all 4 wheels behave the same (the perfect example is that even with the brake pedal pressed down you were able to still turn each one of them) the master cylinder is bad.
Good Luck, and Thank You for using FixYa!

Posted on Apr 15, 2011

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Hello I have a 2003 gmc envoy 4wd had to replace front hub assemblies, brake rotors and brake pads. after the job was complete took it for a test drive and every thing worked fine. my wife drove it back...

sounds like the ABS kicked in while your wife was coming to a stop. This would be known as overactive ABS. It usually occurs under 5 mph while braking. It is usually caused by a speed sensor signal dropping out at slow speeds which makes the ABS module think that the wheel has locked up. It will then engage the ABS to unlock the wheel even though the wheel is turning. The brake pedal will fade and the grind of the ABS motor will be heard.

If this was an isolated incident it will be difficult to determine the source of the problem. It it becomes more frequent and predictable it will become a lot easier to figure out. Most of the time a scan tool capable of reading ABS data will be used. The vehicle will be driven while monitoring ABS wheel speed data. When the problem occurs the wheel speed on one of the wheels will drop out and then that wheel/bearing/sensor can be inspected.

Did you torque the axle nuts after installing the new hub and bearings to the proper spec?

Have you checked to see if the new bearings are still tight? with the wheel off the ground grab it at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. if there is any play than that could cause the problem.

let me know what you find or if you have any more questions.

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ABS & park brake lights come on after about 10 min. of hwy drivin

there is a problem with your abs sensor ....sounds like the sensor is applying the breaks for you when it shouldn't ....have a mech. look at it ...the e- brake issue could be causing a fault in the system ....all the symptoms may be the car.s computer,s way of telling you there is a problem "please bring me in "

Jul 26, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Suburban 1500

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