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Yes, Yes, Yes, and Yes.....All that you want to do you can perform yourself and save quite a bit of money.You can actually find a VERY VERY descriptive online manual(which i have too) at alldata.com You pay a $20 fee and you get online manuals for five years for one vehicle.Definitely worth it.This makes auto work much easier.Any other questions get back to me...I'M HERE TO HELP!!!
Before getting too involved, first remove all the stop and taillight bulbs, and see whether the fuse remains intact. It may be necessary to remove the front clearance bulbs as well.
If the fuse still blows, carefully inspect all the bulb sockets for signs of wires touching. Repair anything you see.
If I remember right, there is a set of connectors within the boot (trunk) of the car. If the problem persists, disconnect all of them. Try the fuse blowing bit again.
If it still blows, the problem must be between the switch and the rear.
If you have one, an ohmmeter check between the "dead" contact of the fuse holder (no fuse fitted)and chassis ground may show a dead short. Tyring each of the connectors in the boot in a similar manner may isolate one particular wire. Then you know what colour wire you are looking for.
Then it's just a matter of tracing the wiring loom back (I think it runs under the floor coverings from memory?), until you find the damage.
A wiring diagram won't really help, lights are always wired in a simple circuit. Somewhere the wire from the switch will split to go to the other light(s), and a short could be in the second or other wire.
I have seen shorts occur even IN light bulbs... so if the fuse doesn't blow after removing the bulbs, check each one before replacing!