Question about 1990 Mazda MX-5

1 Answer

Replace clutch fluid

Proper way to replace clutch fluid

Posted by Anonymous on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

  • Expert
  • 139 Answers

The best way is to replace all the fluid including the fluid in the line to the slave. Here's how I do it.

  • safely raise the front of the car enough to get to the clutch slave cylinder
  • attach a piece of hose to the bleed nipple and run into a container
  • open the bleed nipple
  • slowly depress clutch pedal. Repeat until the fluid level in the reservoir is down below half
  • at this point, top up the reservoir with new fluid
  • repeat the above process until you observe clean fluid running out of the drain tube.
  • Tighten the drain nipple and verify that the clutch is working properly and there is no air in the system.

Posted on Mar 07, 2015

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

We have replace my clutch in 2012 cascadia and we have tried to bleed the air out of line. We can't get any pressure on the clutch pedal and it will stay down on the floor. We can put it in gear unless the...


The clutch system in your vehicle most likely works very similar to your brake system. In most cases, it may even use brake fluid as its working fluid. If you drive a classic car or truck you may have a mechanical clutch meaning it operates by a system of levers, pivot points and connecting rods to translate the movement of the clutch pedal into movement of your clutch pressure plate releasing the clutch. New cars use hydraulic clutch systems because they are much simpler to install, take up less space and do not require adjustment as your clutch wears down.
If you have replaced the clutch slave or master cylinder, the lines, or simply changed the fluid, you need to do an adequate job removing the air from the system before your clutch will work properly. This procedure is called "bleeding" your clutch system by most mechanics and is important because air in a hydraulic system will cause it to malfunction. As you press the clutch pedal, the master cylinder forces hydraulic fluid, in this case brake fluid, down through the line into the slave cylinder. The pressure of this fluid will cause the slave cylinder to activate, pushing your clutch fork and disengaging your clutch. If there is air in the system, that air bubble can compress. This compressing air bubble will absorb much of the fluid being sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder keeping the slave cylinder from actuating as far as it should, or even at all. If the slave cylinder does not travel as far as it should, your clutch will not fully disengage making it difficult to shift your transmission, especially into 1st gear from a stop.
To remove the air from your clutch system you need to push or pull the air down through the fluid line to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. To keep things clean you should attach a tube to the nipple on the bleeder valve. If you use a clear tube it can be easy to see when all the air has exited the system. The easiest way to bleed the clutch is to use a vacuum pump to pull the fluid and air out of the system while keeping the clutch fluid reservoir topped off. Continue pumping fluid from the bleeder valve until you no longer see air bubbles in the fluid. If you do not have a vacuum pump, you can do this manually with a friend.
With the bleeder valve closed, have your helper depress the clutch pedal as far as they can. Open the bleeder valve and allow the fluid to run out until it slows down, while your friend maintains pressure on the clutch pedal. When the fluid flow slows, while your Helper still has pressure on the clutch pedal, close the bleeder valve. Let the clutch pedal back up and repeat the process. Continue this process until no more air bubbles are seen exiting the bleeder valve. Your helper should feel the pedal (stiffen up) as you complete this process as air is easier to compress than the clutch plate release springs.
When you have completed this procedure make sure the bleeder valve is tightly closed, and go for a test drive!

Aug 19, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2001 Chrysler 300 M code P0740


Possible causes of this code are: - Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty torque converter clutch solenoid valve
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve harness is open or shorted
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve circuit poor electrical connection


Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0740_chrysler.html#ixzz32x3c6mOw

May 27, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

Oct 15, 2013 | 2007 Jeep Compass Limited

1 Answer

No clutch pressure


You have a hydarulic clutch, if this condition came on slowly you may just need an adjustment, some models have adjustments available down by the clutch pedal area. otherwise you could have a fluid leak or component failure. check to see if the clutch fluid resevoir is full, if not, fill it with the proper fluid and see if you can bleed the air out of the system. if it is full then you probably will need to replace the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder.

Jan 28, 2012 | 1984 Toyota Tercel

1 Answer

Where is the clutch auto adjustment located at on a 98 manual Volkswagen jetta?


you most likely have a hydraulic clutch, which the clutch master cylinder is located on the firewall on the driverside close to your drivers side windsheild.it takes brake fluid to fill dot brake fluid will fill it properly. however if your slave cylinder on the transmission is leaking,this will require a replacement of the clutch slave cylinder. look for leakage under passenger side,,just under or below passenger side seat onto ground. recommend if you replace the clutch slave cylinder,you also replace clutch master cylinder located on the drivers side firewall at wind sheild.look under the car while someone pumps the clutch in and out,if you see brake fluid leaking under car onto ground or inside onto carpet at brake pedal,you have a bad clutch master cylinder. recommend you replace both slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. this will save you lots of time and headaches. thank you for choosing fixya.com

Sep 24, 2011 | 1998 Volkswagen Jetta

2 Answers

I lost all pressure in my clutch so I replaced the clutch/slave cylinder etc on my 2001 saturn wagon. worked fine for a 2 months. Now all of a sudden I have some pressure in the clutch but it seems out of...


Two possibilties. If you haven't yet replaced the clutch master cylinder there might not be enough pressure to fully engage the clutch. If the master cylinder is full of fluid and has been operating properly until now it could be that you only need to adjust the linkage at the slave cylinder to give a little more throw to the pressure plate. Always try the easiest things first. Good Luck!

Mar 13, 2011 | 2001 Saturn SC

1 Answer

You said it the slave cylinder was leaking to replace it how can i tell if its bad if its not leaking


usually when you have a bad clutch slave cylinder you know it right away because since it is a hydraulic part, once a seal inside the slave cylinder gets bad, it will start leaking fluid, at the same time, because the seal is not sealing properly, it will allow air inside the system causing your clutch pedal to feel soft and spongy.
When a clutch pedal feels that way, its an indication of air in the system and when this happens it makes it hard to operate the clutch properly because it engages even with your foot almost all the way to the floor. at times you may not even be able to place your car or truck in gear due to this problem.
A bad clutch master cylinder will have similar symptoms, make sure that you look closely at each one of these items to determine which one is the problem (the one malfunctioning will be the one leaking fluid)
One check you can do on the master cylinder is to depress the clutch pedal while someone watches the brake fluid reservoir level. if the level rises while the clutch pedal is being depressed than the clutch master cylinder is bad and should be rebuilt or replaced.

Jan 07, 2011 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 minicooper very stiff clutch when pressng


If you took your cooper in and had a clutch replaced odds are the sevice tec installed a heavy duty clutch. Heavy duty clutches wear longer than light duty clutches and are always stiffer if this is the case you can take your cooper back to the service station and have them install a lightweight clutch.

If the clutch was easy to press and all of a suddon became very stiff to push, you need to check the slave cylender (sorry bad speller) and make sure it has the proper amount of brake fluid. if not top it off and pay attention to its fluid levels because the fluid should never lower and this is a sign of a leaky line somewhere in the system. Hope this helps you out.

Nov 15, 2009 | 2002 Mini Cooper

2 Answers

Cannot get into any gear


check make sure the clutch master cylinder working properly along with slave cylinder. both master and slave don't have to leak fluid to be faulty, the rubber seal inside the unit could be worned and when apply pressure the fluid blow by or seep between the rubber seal causing the the unit not to work properly giving you a weak feel and pressure at the pedal. both unit have to work properly in sync. if one are weak you will have the same issue. clutch should have a good tight feel not sloppy or weak. pressure plate will also play important role, weak pressure plate will also give you a weak pressure feedback from the foot pedal and also will cause the synchronizer in the transmission not to engage and work properly. check this basic item fist before messing with your tranny. clutch master and slave cyc are fairly cheap to fix and replace.

May 10, 2009 | 1993 Jeep Wrangler

Not finding what you are looking for?
1990 Mazda MX-5 Logo

89 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mazda Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

79186 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22326 Answers

Jeffrey Turcotte
Jeffrey Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8836 Answers

Are you a Mazda Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...