Question about 1990 Mazda MX-5

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Replace clutch fluid

Proper way to replace clutch fluid

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The best way is to replace all the fluid including the fluid in the line to the slave. Here's how I do it.

  • safely raise the front of the car enough to get to the clutch slave cylinder
  • attach a piece of hose to the bleed nipple and run into a container
  • open the bleed nipple
  • slowly depress clutch pedal. Repeat until the fluid level in the reservoir is down below half
  • at this point, top up the reservoir with new fluid
  • repeat the above process until you observe clean fluid running out of the drain tube.
  • Tighten the drain nipple and verify that the clutch is working properly and there is no air in the system.

Posted on Mar 07, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Clutch clicking when pedal depressed .in morning it was ok tea time it wasn't .pedal feels soft when pressed and when putting in gear it grinds . like I said it was instant .


Sounds like it might be very low on dot 3 brake fluid, there is a tiny reservoir next to the brake reservoir that houses the clutch fluid. If low, add to it, it will get you where you need to go for repairs. When the slave or master cylinder goes bad on the clutch system, the first indicator is a leak in the system. Have both the master and the slave replaced at the same time because they both have just as many miles of wear on them. A safe fluid replacement time on that clutch system is to drain the system every 30000 miles for new viscous brake fluid. All fluids breakdown at different time intervals and will prevent major repairs when properly maintained by a mechanic that cares and does the job.

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How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

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1 Answer

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You have a hydarulic clutch, if this condition came on slowly you may just need an adjustment, some models have adjustments available down by the clutch pedal area. otherwise you could have a fluid leak or component failure. check to see if the clutch fluid resevoir is full, if not, fill it with the proper fluid and see if you can bleed the air out of the system. if it is full then you probably will need to replace the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder.

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you most likely have a hydraulic clutch, which the clutch master cylinder is located on the firewall on the driverside close to your drivers side windsheild.it takes brake fluid to fill dot brake fluid will fill it properly. however if your slave cylinder on the transmission is leaking,this will require a replacement of the clutch slave cylinder. look for leakage under passenger side,,just under or below passenger side seat onto ground. recommend if you replace the clutch slave cylinder,you also replace clutch master cylinder located on the drivers side firewall at wind sheild.look under the car while someone pumps the clutch in and out,if you see brake fluid leaking under car onto ground or inside onto carpet at brake pedal,you have a bad clutch master cylinder. recommend you replace both slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. this will save you lots of time and headaches. thank you for choosing fixya.com

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I lost all pressure in my clutch so I replaced the clutch/slave cylinder etc on my 2001 saturn wagon. worked fine for a 2 months. Now all of a sudden I have some pressure in the clutch but it seems out of...


Two possibilties. If you haven't yet replaced the clutch master cylinder there might not be enough pressure to fully engage the clutch. If the master cylinder is full of fluid and has been operating properly until now it could be that you only need to adjust the linkage at the slave cylinder to give a little more throw to the pressure plate. Always try the easiest things first. Good Luck!

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You said it the slave cylinder was leaking to replace it how can i tell if its bad if its not leaking


usually when you have a bad clutch slave cylinder you know it right away because since it is a hydraulic part, once a seal inside the slave cylinder gets bad, it will start leaking fluid, at the same time, because the seal is not sealing properly, it will allow air inside the system causing your clutch pedal to feel soft and spongy.
When a clutch pedal feels that way, its an indication of air in the system and when this happens it makes it hard to operate the clutch properly because it engages even with your foot almost all the way to the floor. at times you may not even be able to place your car or truck in gear due to this problem.
A bad clutch master cylinder will have similar symptoms, make sure that you look closely at each one of these items to determine which one is the problem (the one malfunctioning will be the one leaking fluid)
One check you can do on the master cylinder is to depress the clutch pedal while someone watches the brake fluid reservoir level. if the level rises while the clutch pedal is being depressed than the clutch master cylinder is bad and should be rebuilt or replaced.

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If you took your cooper in and had a clutch replaced odds are the sevice tec installed a heavy duty clutch. Heavy duty clutches wear longer than light duty clutches and are always stiffer if this is the case you can take your cooper back to the service station and have them install a lightweight clutch.

If the clutch was easy to press and all of a suddon became very stiff to push, you need to check the slave cylender (sorry bad speller) and make sure it has the proper amount of brake fluid. if not top it off and pay attention to its fluid levels because the fluid should never lower and this is a sign of a leaky line somewhere in the system. Hope this helps you out.

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check make sure the clutch master cylinder working properly along with slave cylinder. both master and slave don't have to leak fluid to be faulty, the rubber seal inside the unit could be worned and when apply pressure the fluid blow by or seep between the rubber seal causing the the unit not to work properly giving you a weak feel and pressure at the pedal. both unit have to work properly in sync. if one are weak you will have the same issue. clutch should have a good tight feel not sloppy or weak. pressure plate will also play important role, weak pressure plate will also give you a weak pressure feedback from the foot pedal and also will cause the synchronizer in the transmission not to engage and work properly. check this basic item fist before messing with your tranny. clutch master and slave cyc are fairly cheap to fix and replace.

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