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Sounds like the "slave cylinder" in the caliper may be sticking, or pad shims do not balance the possition of the pads with respect to the Disk. Disk could also be warped and so caused improper occilating contact with the pad the caliper does not expect. If hot compared to all other wheels, I'd get it checked by a reputable shop or dealer. It could contribute to a dangerous situation.
The following asumes only one wheel is hot and the e-brake is not engaged or possibly hung up from having been left on while the car was not driven for a while. Up north, BMW (Audi ?) brake disks tend to start rusting after about a week of inactivity. For a hung up e-brake, it is sometimes necessary to go back and forth to break the corrosion.
A hot wheel usually indicates that the brake pad is dragging (i.e. the brake caliper piston is not returning into the brake caliper bore).
A couple of checks: measure the brake disk temperature with a temperature gun on both brake disks of the same axle. If one is much higher, the caliper piston is probably sticking. Can also check for relatively large temperature difference with your hand-just do not touch the metal or you will get burned. Look at the brake disk for evidence of the outline of the brake pad that may have transferred to it indicating a very hot brake disk. Chock the car well, put into neutral with e-brake off, jack up "hot wheel" side and try to spin the tire. If a lot of drag, sticking caliper piston. Caliper replacement or disassembly for a thorough cleaning will probably be required. If this is necessary, you should do both brake disks and pads and consider doing both calipers on that axle depending on age and corrosion condition.
You have to make sure the brake system is operating properly.Change both rear brakes it sounds like the left rear brake side is not working making the right side wear out so quick.After changing the back brakes bleed them making sure you have no air in your brake lines.start bleeding them from the left rear to the right rear to the left front to right front to master cylinder.
Bleed the breaks untill you get clean clear fluid out of each one. start with the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. DO NOT let the reservor get low while bleeding. You can suck air into the lines and have the same problem. You need to do this immediatly as your brakeing ability is uncertain and can be un reliable.
Not knowing exactly what year & model makes this a question that really cant be answered correctly. Some car years have drum brakes in the rear & some have disk, some have a single line from the master the goes to the front & rear & each "T"'s off in the middle letting equal pressure to each. Some have an individual line right from the master cylinder to each wheel. There are even systems called X systems that apply pressure in an "X" configuration (L front-rear RT / RT front.-rear L ) To get a more accurate answer, the make model & year should be listed as well if it has 4 wheel disk or not.
I had a similar problem with the front disc brakes .... had to replace the calipers. In high corrosive conditions the pistons on the calipers can become contaminated and not operate smoothly ... they stick. The same thing can happen to the wheel cylinders on the rear. Try replacing the wheel cylinders on the rear (fairly cheep fix) and if that fixes them then the calipers would be next. Jim