Compressor went out replaced it ... blew cold for few hours now wont come on i checked pressure good and no leaks can wire compressor strait to battery with jumper wire and air bloiws cold why will the switch not turn the compressor on is there a relay or something im missing
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jump the low or high pressure switchs this switchs are located on the a/c lines of tje compresor not run check power to the compresor if you have power maybe the compressor is gone
check the a/c control pannel to and take a second opinion before expend money
you may have a leak, the compressor will not turn on till it sees pressure in the system (if it leaked out it wont turn on ) could take your low pressure switch off and jump the plug for a minute to see if the copressor comes on. sure fire way to tell you have a leak. Also do not leave the jumper on the plug. If you do have a leak you could seize your compressor from lack of oil,
If the car was retro fitted with R134a this was a common problem. There was a low side pressure sensor that needs to be changed. R134a runs different pressures than the r12.. When you go down the road the condenser cools off the system and the pressure drops below the minimum pressure. You need to make sure that the system is fully charged, not just cold to the feel. Both pipes coming out of the firewall need to be the same temp. this makes sure that the evaporator is flooded.
I hope this helped. Re-post if you need more info. Have a nice day and good luck.
There are a few possibilities. Blown fuse to the compressor clutch, bad clutch, seized compressor, broken belt, low system pressure, or a rock through the coils in front of the radiator causing a leak. Take it to a reputable mechanic for repairs.
More than likely you have a leak in your system and do not have enough pressure. This will activate the low pressure switch to protect the compressor from damage due to lack of lubrication, which is supplied by the refrigerant which carries the lubricant.. Rick.
You have a leak. If the refrigerant pressure [amount] is too low the compressor will not turn on . And to see the leak detector dye you must use a florescent light.
The reason it repeatedly works, then stops working is caused by a switch that will inhibit the compressor from turning on with low refrigerant pressure. After it stops working the refrigerant makes its way through the system and builds up pressure at the low pressure switch again therefore allowing the compressor to work again.
If you tried using a refrigeration "sealing" product before changing out the compressor, you most likely do need to replace the expansion valve.
The valve "flutters" open/close/open/close/etc/etc when in operation. The purpose is to allow the compessor to build up enough pressure to change the freon to a gaseous state. Once you put in the sealer, the valve becomes plugged with the product and cannot seat completely. After this happens, you never get a full phase change because the pressure cannot build up enough. You will experience reduced cooling. Change the Exp. valve and you'll be set. In the future, it is not advisable to ever use the sealer products as this can cause damage to other system parts, and especially the recovery units at the shop.
Its a leak ...probably concealed like in an evap housing or rear air unit and lines (if it has that). Prob at this juncture I would remove all the freon and bring system into a vaccuum with a pump and see if it will hold vaccum for an extended period of time. A bad leak will not hold srong vacuum very long and much cheaper than wasting expensive and enviromental un0friendly refrigerants.
Id say you have to go into it and see. Sounds like the compressor is
not running. The small copper pipe should be warm and the big copper
pipe cold and wet. Could be anything low pressure switch ,wire off, cap