Question about 1985 Mazda RX-7

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Plug wire configuration

I removed plug wires from coil distributor and plugs and lost paper i wrote it down on, this is a 1985 12a motor

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  • 46 Answers

Quite easy actually. There are two rotors 1 - front and 2 - rear. there are two plugs per rotor Trailing - top and Leading - lower.
The distributor cap has letters and combination letters/numbers on it (if it does not you need to get a good quality cap) L and T and L1 T1 L2 T2
L is leading coil, T trail coil, pretty self explanatory from there
My recommendation from nearly 40 experience with rotary's is to use Mazda Mitsubishi Cap Rotor and NGK wires and plugs. Has been good enough for factory race teams also.
An issue with most aftermarket rotors is that they do not fit properly and can cause changes in timing and worse case, damage both cap and rotor.

Posted on May 04, 2014

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johnychel
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SOURCE: Wont Start

did you try jumk starting??

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

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SOURCE: 1997 Mazda Millenia, Changed Almost Everything, Still No Spark..

check the pcm .get it scan make sure your pcm is working.also check ignition coils.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: No spark?

Hi, common thing with the mazda was the coil or the ignition amplifier going faulty, both of which are located within the distributor, the coil ususally gives the symptoms you describe, a weak spark. The coil is the most common failure aswell for your vehicle i would recommend a new one, also make sure distributor is spinning as it could just be a case of a broken timing belt.

Good luck Davelee

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: No spark in '05 Mazda 6

any wires not plugged into there respective places, any sensors the old engine had that this one don't, did you use the old distributor for your coil setup,I think it might be, luck

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

  • 1024 Answers

SOURCE: A friend and I are replacing plug wires on a 2001

here it is

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Posted on May 27, 2010

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I need the diagram for plug wiring for 1992 ford tempo


Firing order is 1-3-4-2 Please rate if this helps

Installation of wires
  1. Whenever a high tension wire is removed for any reason from a spark plug, coil or distributor cap, or a new high tension wire is installed, Silicone Dielectric Compound WA-10, D7AZ-19A331-A (ESE-M1C171-A) or equivalent must be applied to boot before it is reconnected. Using a small clean tool, coat entire interior surface of boot with Silicone Dielectric Compound WA-10, D7AZ-19A331-A (ESE-M1C171-A) or equivalent.
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Installation of distributor
Before installing distributor, visually inspect distributor. Inspect O-ring. It should fit tightly and be free of cuts. The drive gear should be free of nicks, cracks and excessive wear. Rotate distributor drive shaft. It should move freely, without binding.
  1. To install distributor correctly, No. 1 piston must be at Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke. Remove No. 1 cylinder spark plug and rotate engine clockwise until No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke.
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  1. Align locating boss on rotor with hole on armature. Fully seat rotor on distributor shaft.
  1. Rotate distributor shaft so blade on rotor is pointing toward mark on distributor base, that was previously made in Step 2 of the Removal procedure.
  1. While installing distributor, continue rotating rotor slightly so leading edge of the vane is centered in vane switch stator assembly.
  1. Rotate distributor in block to align leading edge of vane and vane switch stator assembly. Verify rotor is pointing at No. 1 mark on distributor base. If vane and vane switch stator cannot be aligned by rotating distributor in cylinder block, remove distributor enough to just disengage distributor gear from camshaft gear. Rotate rotor enough to engage distributor gear on another tooth of camshaft gear. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.
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Oct 11, 2011 | 1992 Ford Tempo

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REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR FOR A 1996 GMC JIMMY


Check this procedure...
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  2. If necessary, remove the air cleaner.
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  4. Unplug the electrical connector at the base of the distributor.
  5. Loosen the distributor cap fasteners and remove the cap.
  6. Using a marker, matchmark the rotor-to-housing and housing-to-engine block positions so that they can be matched during installation.
  7. Loosen and remove the distributor hold-down bolt.
  8. Remove the distributor from the engine.

INSTALLATION
Engine Not Disturbed
  1. Install the distributor in the engine making sure that the matchmarks are properly aligned.
  2. Install the hold-down bolt and tighten the bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  3. Install the distributor cap and attach the electrical connector at the base of the distributor.
  4. Install the spark plug wires and coil leads.
  5. If removed, install the air cleaner assembly.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.
Engine Disturbed
(see Figure)
  1. Remove the No. 1 cylinder spark plug. Turn the engine using a socket wrench on the large bolt on the front of the crankshaft pulley. Place a finger near the No. 1 spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft until the piston reaches Top Dead Center (TDC). As the engine approaches TDC, you will feel air being expelled by the No. 1 cylinder. If the position is not being met, turn the engine another full turn (360 degree). Once the engine's position is correct, install the spark plug.
  2. Using a long screwdriver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine in the mating drive tab in the distributor.
  3. Install the distributor in the engine.
  4. Install the distributor in the engine making sure that the matchmarks are properly aligned.
  5. Install the hold-down bolt and tighten the bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  6. Install the distributor cap and attach the electrical connector at the base of the distributor.
  7. Install the spark plug wires and coil leads.
  8. If removed, install the air cleaner assembly.
  9. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Fig. : The rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast in the distributor base, when the distributor is fully seated



Hope this helps (remember to rating this free asnwer).

Oct 07, 2011 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

Spark plug in cyl. # 4 is wet and saturated with gasoline . does not seem to be firing . engine is running extremely rough . I cannot see under intake manifold to get to spark plug wire . is removal of...


i`m assuming this is a 4 cylinder motor.no you don`t take the intake off to get to the coils.you can get to the coils from under neath the car.have you checked to see if the plug wire is allowing spark to the plug itself.if its only #4 getting wet then the plug could be defective as the coil that fires #4 also fires #1 cylinder.its rare that the coil will fire one side and not both.(it does happen though).there are 2 coils at the back of the motor that sit on the ignition module.you could have a bad ignition module also.the crank sensor is attached to the ignition module on the motor side and the sensor sits in the motor and if you have to remove the module be careful that you don`t brake the crank sensor when removing the unit a the sensor gets brittle from the heating and cooling of the motor over time,also the sensor seal gets stuck in the bore.

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Hi, Hope I can help you.
I do not know how you have checked for spark, but lets start from the beginning.
Lets start with an ignition systems check.
1. I want you to remove the high voltage coil wire. ( That's the wire in the center of the distributor cap.) Using a good pair of insulated pliers. I want you to hold it about 1/4 inch from a good engine ground. Now you will need a bit of help from a partner. Get them to turn the key and crank the engine. You should see a bright blue and well defined spark. Ok, If you have spark I want you to slowly move the coil wire away from the engine ground. As you do this I want you to pay attention to the coil tower. (The coil tower is where the other end of the coil wire is attached.) What your looking for is arcing and sparking at the coil tower. If this happens then you need to replace the coil with a new one. If this does not happen then your coil is working fine, and we will have to move on.
Note if you do not get spark from the coil wire replace the coil.

2. Ok if you have spark now we have find out if the spark is making it to the spark plugs. How are we going to do this? By checking the rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs.First lets remove the distributor cap. This will allow use to inspected the rotor and the distributor cap. What your looking for is, cracks, carbon tracks and wear at the tip of the rotor. On the distributor ,look inside the cap for cracks, carbon tracks and wear on the terminals. If you find any of this replace the distributor cap and rotor. ( Note if you have any doubt of the condition of the rotor or the cap replace them.) Next lets check your spark plug wires. Lets pull off one of the spark plug wires from the spark plug side. Now inspect the wire connection for a white crusty powder. If you find crust replace your wires. Now you should check all of them the same way, but if even one has corrosion replace them all. You are going to have to inspect the wire its self . Going down the whole length of the wire. Holes cracks burn Marks and other damage. Once again if you find any damage replace them all.
I hope this will help you and good luck to all the read this FixYa

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Aug 26, 2009 | 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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