Question about 2000 Suzuki Esteem

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Stuck CV rod and tripod in transmission

Already bought replacements assemblies for both sides. Boots are ripped on both and the right side is noisy enough to worry me and fix it. Car is jacked; wheel and calliper out of the way; got 32mm nut off easy enough; removed other bolts keeping CV assembly in place; even pulled out most of it. PROBLEM: 1. Cannot release the rod from the rotor/ bearing hub. Lots of WD-40 and hammer hits with no movement. Is there a clip to persuade or a rod press I need to purchase? 2. The differential boot pulled away. Now the tripod gear shaft is still in the transmission. My replacement assembly has a new one to go in the trans. What is the best way to remove it without ruining an O-ring or anything else. Dont want to do this again if I see a leak 1 week latrer.

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 3,679 Answers

There is a roll pin hold ing the cv shaft to the drive shaft, has to be tapped through, the cv joint is usually held to shaft by a cir-clip that needs 'opening out' and the cv joint will come off.your second query should be helped by doing this first procedure ,then there should be a metal ring bolted to the trans housing that holds that end of shaft in place ,this is placed OVER the rubber dif boot so you may not have seen it as old boot has come away ,do as 2 seperate operations much easier

Posted on Mar 29, 2014

  • cristo_berar Mar 29, 2014

    thanks. The right tripod is out. The passanger side rod is still stuck. Only the driver differential end shows a clip. Neither outer end of replacement parts. The outer threads are deformed from hitting it. Even gave it a heatign with my small torch. Unless you have another idea, Im going to see about renting a tool.

  • steve Mar 30, 2014

    i think that will be your best option ,would'nt have thought it would be very much to buy a hub puller good luck and thanks for update

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: wobble when I drive my car had drive shafts replaced

make sure the new axles match up to exact length of old ones. sometimes aftermarket or rebuild cv axles are slightly shorter also possible the new axles are for a different model passat, thus when tightening the new axle in place it slips out.

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

  • 474 Answers

SOURCE: I am unable to remove the wheel hub. I am trying

this is ussualy pressed in with a press. if you really have to. beat the old one out put the new one in the freezer and place the recieving part in a hot spot. i have found a propane grill works well at its highest setting. what this does is shrink the bearing and expand the mount allowing you to drive it in.

Posted on Oct 16, 2009

SOURCE: I need to remove the right side headlight

No, you don't have to remove the front bumper. The headlight bulb is in a tight spot so you will need someone with small hands to reach it. Pull the rubber boot with the connector off
and there is a spring clip that holds the bulb in place, remove the clip and pull the bulb out
The connector inside the boot does not engage much on the terminals of the bulb. Click on the link below to read more:

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/2g-2006-grand-vitara/28258-how-do-i-change-headlight-bulb.html

Posted on Jan 14, 2011

  • 3911 Answers

SOURCE: I want to change the

your problem is that the boots are put on as they are assembled, so you need to take the joint apart to put the new boots on. it is cheaper to exchange the entire half shaft for a rebuilt one with new boot than to take them apart and put them back together.

alternatively most parts stores sell a couple different sizes of "split boots". these can be put on as they wrap around. surgical cleanliness is a necessity as they are glued on.

depending on the age of your shafts, you may want to go with new or rebuilt shafts to save yourself repeated labor next year.

Posted on May 06, 2011

  • 2474 Answers

SOURCE: 2000suzuki Esteem front wheel bearing R&R

start by jacking up car end of cv will have a cotter pin remove it, you'll need a 35 mm or 1 1/2 sae socket to remove retaining nut , after that ues a hard block of wood and strike that with hammer ( NEVRE STRIKE CV END WITH ANYTHIN METAL OR VERY HARD),at this point cv should be loose ,seperate cv from bearing hub you may also have to remove tie rod end to swing it out.ok thats it in a nut shell good luck hope it helps you.

Posted on Sep 30, 2012

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1 Answer

How to disassemble a cv joint


FSM
Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle and secure in a vice equipped with jaw covers.
During joint service, reference marks should be placed on the joint housing, halfshaft and joint spider to ensure that all components are installed in the same position from which they were removed. If this precaution is not observed, uneven or premature component wear may result.
  1. Remove the large differential boot clamp by drawing the clamp hooks together using tool J-35566 or equivalent.
  2. Remove the small differential-side boot clamp. Slide the differential-side boot toward the center of the halfshaft. Place a reference mark on the differential-side joint housing and halfshaft.
  3. Remove the differential joint housing from the Tripod joint spider. Place an index mark on the Tripod joint spider and halfshaft.
  4. Remove the snap-ring and Tripod joint spider from the halfshaft.
  5. Remove the differential-side boot from the halfshaft.
  6. Remove the boot clamp from the wheel-side boot.
  7. Remove the small clamp from the wheel-side boot.
  8. Remove the wheel-side boot from the halfshaft. Place a reference mark on the wheel-side joint and the halfshaft.
  9. Remove the wheel-side joint from the halfshaft by expanding the snap-ring.


Do not disassemble the wheel-side joint. If any abnormality is found in the joint, replace it. Do not disassemble the Tripod joint spider. If any abnormality is found in the spider, replace it as an assembly. Do not wash CV-joint boots or spider in solvent. Clean the spider assembly and boots with a clean, dry, solvent-free rag.


best it to buy the FSm book and see photos.
or join alldata.com and read this, same reason.

Jun 12, 2014 | 1997 Geo Metro

1 Answer

Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

My granddaughter's 2000 Stratus makes a front end noise turning left but not right. Half shaft or CV joint?


I'd say constant velocity joint. It's been my experience that the offending side is usually opposite from the direction being turned. Turn the wheel to each extreme side and get a look at the c.v. boots. If it's ripped or torn it's a good indication that foreign material has entered it and caused excessive wear. If I've helped, please rate my assistance. Thank you and Happy Holidays.

Dec 19, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Have clicking noise on drive side by wheel.


Check for rips in cv boots. If ripped & leaking out grease,it is also letting in dirt which acts like sandpaper. Then cv joint or shaft will need to be replaced. Also check for play in wheel bearings.

Jun 16, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

How to replace a CV joint 2000 Cavalier Drivers side


Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.

Feb 21, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

1992 Corolla's CV Boots Fully Ripped


it is just as easy to replace the whole shaft and easier

Nov 11, 2009 | 1992 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

2004 chevy cavalier makes a ''knocking'' sound


This could be any number of things. It could be your CV axle going bad, your tie rod joint has gone bad, your lower ball joint has gone bad. More than likely it will be your CV axle. What you need to look for is rips on any of the boots for these parts. The one that has the rip will more than likely be your problem. Just check for grease coming out of any of these parts and you will find your culprit because it has dried up and is causing the knocking sound. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks for using FixYa!

Aug 07, 2009 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

CV Joints


You will usually hear a real loud clicking sound when your turning at a tight radius in either direction. Check the rubber boots over the joints. If they are cracked or ripped off you will need to replace them.There will be 2 on each side. If they are real noisy just replace the entire half-shafts. Shop around for axle shaft assy prices, typically $100.00 - $300.00 each side.

May 26, 2009 | 1990 Suzuki Swift

1 Answer

My van makes clicking noise when going uphill & and sometimes the speeds slows right down and makes noise (clicking under vehicle).


Could be front CV axles making that noise. Check out the rubber cv boots going from the transmission to the center of the front wheels, If the boots are ripped or cracked, replace the cv axles on both sides.

Apr 22, 2009 | Dodge Caravan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Shakes badly when it reaches 30mph


could be bad hub bearings, or cv axles. If the cv boots are ripped, replace the entire axles, both sides. if the cv boots are still intact then I would replace only the hub bearing assemblies.

Apr 21, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

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