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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Same thing happened to me at about 140k. It was the fuel pump. Best way to test if your pump is failing and loosing pressure is to see if the car will start immediately after it has been running, or turn the key to the alt position for a few minutes before starting. If your engine fires faster after it has been running or the key has been in the alt position you will probably need a new fuel pump. Great news is with a very deep socket to get the tank straps off its a 30 minute job to replace the pump/filter assembly.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
Crank sensor can translate heat. Not allowing restart after the turbo heat radiates in the area. Try a wad of aluminum foil in front of the crank sensor(on the block behind the turbo) . It protects it from heat and its a cheep test. If this works you can make a better sheild or leave the foil.
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
Long Crank Time Due To Possible Contact Of Camshaft Sensor To Camshaft Gear
This bulletin involves the replacement of the engine camshaft sensor.
2007 (JK) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 3.8L engine (sales code
The customer may experience one of the following conditions:
a). Long engine crank time.
b). Two engine start attempts prior to engine starting.
c). Due to the “TIP Start Feature” on automatic transmission equipped vehicles, once the
ignition key / switch has been released from the “START” position, the starter may stay
engaged for up to 10 seconds while the engine attempts to start.
The above conditions may be due to the position of the camshaft sensor to the camshaft
gear. The sensor spacer gasket may have come loose during engine assembly and
caused the camshaft sensor to be adjusted too close or in contact with the camshaft gear.
If the above condition is present perform the Repair Procedure.
Qty. Part No. Description
1 04686353 Sensor, Camshaft
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
I had a similar issue in that we couldn't turn the 4wd on no matter how hard we tried. We replaced the switches in the dash and the vacuum hoses on the switch on the transfer case. the vacuum lines were dry rotted and leaking. we had our mechanic do it and all told was less than 500 bucks labor and tax included.
Posted on Aug 21, 2009
I would first have the alternator checked by an auto electrician to ensure it is working correctly and is providing the correct volume of current. It may be faulty and when driving you will be drawing battery power instead of power from the alternator to run the electrics. This will drain the battery.
Alternators do not last forever and if you are still running the original unit it is likely to be on it's last legs and you will need a replacement unit.
Posted on Nov 30, 2009
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