An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: braks wont relise after stoping must set for hours to...
crack the line to that brake, caliper
that means the fitting, not to break it.
loosen the fitting to that line, and find who is blocked.
my guess is you put in the MC and did not set the back side pedal
rod gap. per the FSm. spec?
did you use the FSM as a guide? or guess.?
1: new MC
2: new rear cyl./
3: old calipers.
so did the old calipers work before and how long was before. 1 day, 1 year?
if you loosen the rear hose fitting to the caliper that jams
and it release, the lock the the problem is up stream.
if not dont release the caliper is bad.
easy huh, just a turn of the wrench.
even bad calliper sliders can jam a rotor and that is the first thing
i check on calipers after leaks.
they must slide and float, if not they are dangerous.
if ABS , nows to time to say,
if ABS did you first read the FSM pages on how to bleed ABS on this suzuki, some cars need a special scan tool to get the ABS modulor
working right, (specials steps)
good luck there.
ive never seen a wagon R, we dont have them here.
so do post whats there.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is important to fully "bench bleed" the Master cylinder as air can get trapped in the body of the cylinder. DO not block off the ports and bleed , attach 4 bleeding adapters & hoses to the MC and bench bleed till you get no air. the you can install & bleed R/R wheel , then L/R wheel , then R/F wheel , finishing with the L/F wheel. when bleeding don't pump the pedal as that will aerate the fluid & make it harder.
1- New master cylinders could also fail, possibly due to bad quality replacement parts or maybe even just a factory fault on a good quality master cylinder.
2- If you had blown a rear wheel cylinder, you most deffinatly should still have had a form of front brakes. the reason for this is as follows... For this very saftey meassure manufactures design the container for the brake fluid supplying the master cylinder in two internally, so this would mean that if you where to drain all the brake fluid through the rear wheel cylinders an acceptable amount of brake fluid should still remain within the one compartment of the reservoir for the front brakes to still opperate.
3- Leaking rear wheel cylinders should have been noticed by the technician who installed the master cylinder, the reason for this is because the brake fluid would have had to be bled through the system at each wheel. even though it would have been performed from the back of the wheel one would expect the technician to notice the brake fluid dripping out behind the brake drum.
What this sounds like is either one of two things. A, there is air in your brake lines and they need to be bled, or you have a bad master cylinder and it needs to be changed. The easiest way to tell if it is the master cylinder is to first bleed the brakes, starting at the passenger rear, then the drivers rear, then the passenger front and finally the drivers front. Once you have done this, you should have a full pedal and if it is the master cylinder, it will only take a couple of times of pressing the brake pedal and it will be spongy again. If this is the case, then the master cylinder needs to be replaced.
I know there is ABS in that vehicle, you might still have air in the ABS unit, you will need to get a manual that shows you the correct procedure to bleed the brakes. Master installed u need to start the bleed on the bench, then move to the ABS unit then to the individual calipers and/or wheel cylinders if equipped. I think there is a certain way to do it to avoid incorrect bleeding.
But i have also seen bad master cylinders brand new in the box.
Just because there isn't an external leak in the brake system doesn't mean there isn't an internal leak in the master cylinder. A mushy pedal is usually an internal leak in the master cylinder or leaking wheel cylinders in the rear brake drums. Check the rear brake wheel cylinders for fluid leaks, if there are none or you do not have rear drum brakes, your best bet is the master cylinder :)